1998 GMPR

SEATTLE - HIROSHIMA 1998 - 2000

GMPR Nasil Basladi.

Soguk bir kis gununde bademcik ameliyatindan sonra “Tour” adli bisiklet mecmuasini okurken ufacik bir haber goruyorum.  Ucuncu bin yila girisi tum dunya halklarinin kardesligini pekistirmek icin Amerika’lilar  her ulkeden iki katilimci toplam 400 bisikletci ile ABD’den yola cikip atom bombasinin acilarini daha hala ceken Hiroshima’ya iki yillik bir baris turu duzenliyorlarmis. Birdenbire heyecanla yerimden dogruldum hemen telefonla kayit yaptirmak istedim ancak ameliyat sonrasi sesim zar zor cikiyordu, napalim beklemem gerekiyordu. Hastahaneden cikinca ilk isim hemen telefona sarilmak oldu ancak Almanya temsilcisi iki kisinin belirlendigini hatta daha bircok katilimciyi geri cevirmek zorunda kaldigini soyledi ve bana Turkiye temsilcisi ile gorusmemi soyledi. Turkiye’den aldigim cevap da farkli degildi bir anda hayallerim yikildi.

Aradan gunler, haftalar gecti aylardan mayis tekrar bir arayip sorup calismalarin ne halde yurudugunu bir sorayim dedim. Benim icin inanilmayacak guzel bir haber.  Bu arada hersey tumden degismis. Buyuk umutlarla baslayan hazirliklar, tir kamyonlarinca saglanacak, mutfak, banyo gibi pahali altyapilar ve uzun aramalar sonucu sponsor bulamamanin hayal kirikligi ile tur iptal edilmis ancak kendi imkani ile bu turu yapmak isteyen bir grup olusursa Birlesmis Milletlerin destegi ile yapilacakmis, bu destek de sadece vize islemlerini kolaylastirmak icin resmi bir belge.

Bu turu duzenlemeye istekli tek ulke Litvanya idi. Telefon konusmalarimizin icerigini anlamakta zorlaniyorum, iki kelimenin birini anca anlayabiliyorum. Hemen hazirliklara Ortlieb cantalar, schwalbe lastikler alinarak baslaniyor.

Almanya’da  bir Turk restauranti isletmekteydim.  Agustos ayinda 10 yillik kira kontratim bittecek ve ev sahibi uzatma yapmaya yanasmiyor, restauranti kendi isletmesi olan sofor okulunu genisletmek icin kullanacakmis. Bu karari kabullenip yeni bir hayata baslamakta oldukca zorlaniyorum ama buyuk heyecanla planladigim dunya turu beni haddinden fazla heyecanlandiriyor. Artik nerdeyse is hayati hic umurmda degil, hatta bazi geceler restaurantta islerin az olmasi umurumda bile olmuyor. Artik kendimi onumuzdeki bisiklet turuna odakladim, tur ile yatip tur ile kalkiyorum. Normalde ogle servisinden sonra saat 3 ‘de kapadigim isyerimi onceleri 2,30’da daha sonralari 2’de kapatip bisiklet antremanina cikiyorum. Insanin onunde boyle guzel bir tur olunca pedallara daha bir cocuk heyecani ile basiyor. Cigerlerime cektigim nefes adeta beni ucuruyor.

Almanya’ya 80’lerde geldigimiz Mannheim’daki Korhan arkadasima yapacagim turu telefonda anlatirken onun da ses tonundan ne kadar etkilendigini adeta oturdugu sandalyeden ayaga firladigini hissediyorum. Tamam Ahmet ben de geliyorum ancak benim bisiklet gecmisim yok yapabilirmiyim diyor. Ne kadar guzel bir yol arkadasi buldum diye sevinerek ertesi gun bir bisikletimi arabaya koyarak 400 km uzakliktaki Mannheim’a giidiyorum. Korhan benim yillarin ayiramadigi cocukluk arkadasim, dolu bir insan, anlatmaya basladigimizda birbirimizin her kelimesinden birseyle ogrenir yeni yolculuklara cikariz. Korhan’a bisikleti birakip, biraz da antrenman tekniklerinden bahsedip, yavas yavas bisiklete alismasini tembihleyip geri donuyorum. Artik bir yol arkadasim var diye cok sevincliyim. Sonraki gunlerde Korhan’la telefonla gelismeleri adim adim takip edip planlarimizi gelistiriyoruz. Daha sonra Korhan’a bisiklet ve kamp malzemeleri alacagiz.

Mayis ayinin sonunu bulduk ve restaurant hayatimin son ayina girdim. Haziran ayinin sonunda isletmeyi kapamayi dusunuyorum. Son haziran ayi o kadar zevkli geciyorki hemen hemen tur ile yatip tur ile kalkiyorum. 96 yilinda kadrosunu alip bastan sona sectigim malzemelerle topladigim yol bisikleti ile yeni aldigim “Marschall” kadroyu bir sekilde birlestirip iyi birsey ortaya cikarmayi dusunuyorum. Yol bisikletinin “Campagnolo C Record” vites sistemini tur kadroma monte edip kalan malzemeleride yeni aliyorum. Bu arada yillardir universiteden tanidigim Uli, benim turuma cok heyecanlaniyor ve lazim olan tum tur  malzemelerini bana gelis fiyatindan karsiz veriyor. Bisikletim hazir ama yillardir yol bisikletine bindigim icin bisiklet sanki bana cok hantal ve agir geliyor.

Restaurantimin kapanisinini para kazanmak icin degilde guzel bir hatira ile bu ise son vermek icin planliyorum. Haziran ayi boyunca gelen musteriden cok arkadasim gibi kendilerini hissettigim dostlari kapanis gecesine davet ediyorum. Son gecemiz bir ayrilis, veda gecesi olsun istiyorum. Evet son gun geldi, birakiyorum yillarin menusunu bir kenara ve Veda menusunu tum dostlarimla paylasiyorum. Bu son gecenin hakikaten benim icin cok buyuk anlami vardi. Gelen her dostum ufak da olsa tur boyunca kullanabilecegim bir hediyeyle geliyor. Gecemize yillar boyu da gecirip gelecek planlarimi anlatiyorum. Her guzel sey gibi bu gecede ilk vedadan sonra huzunlu bir hale geliyor.

Restauranttaki dekerasyonum benim icin cok onemliydi, hepsini tek tek Turkiye’den getirmistim, boyaci sandigimi desem, cesit cesit nargileler, Kutahya, Iznik seramiklerinden yaptiigim panolar, aynalar, vitraylar, muzik aletleri, Turk kilimleri. Restauranta gelenler hep bana bunlari satarmisin diye sorarlardi. Hatta cok sevdigim Bosna’li profosor bir beyin Japonya’daki muzik profosoru olan kizina icim sizlayarak duvardaki sazi vermistim. Hic para stemedigim halde degerinin belki bes katini masaya birakmislardi. Daha onceden kim ne istiyor diye bir liste yapip bu dekarasyon malzemelerinin cogunu meraklilarina devrettim ve tum mutfak ve restaurant malzemelerini bir sekilde degerlendirdim.

Turkiye ucagina bindigimde artik is hayatim bitmis beni yepyeni bir gelecek bekliyordu. Bir yonden heyecanli bir yandanda biraz tedirgin biraz da huzursuzdum. Yillarin aliskanligi, her sabah ise gitmeler aksam gec saatlere kadar calismak artik bitmisti. Oncelikle her sene oldugu gibi birkac hafta Turkiye’ye gidip hasret gidermeyi planlamistim. Ev halki benim tur hakkindaki fikirlerimi duyunca pek sasirmadi zira boyle ucuk seyleri benden beklerlerdi. Tam keyfim iyi iken ani bir haberle cok sarsiliyorum. Korhan arkadasim ozel nedenleri dolayisiyle tura gelemeyecegini soyluyor. Hatta ucak biletlerini bile almistik beraberce. Ya Korhan yapilirmi simdi bu? Iste bu ani beni sarsan haber bundan sonraki hayatimda benim yola cikis tarzimi degistirdi. Artik ne olursa olsun kimseye bagimli olmadan dusuyorum yollara yalniz basina. Gemlik, Kumlada son gunlerimide antreman yaparak geciriyorum. Bir de saclarimi usturaya vurduruyorum ki berberden eve gelince beni tanimakta zorlaniyor ev halki.

Bu arada Amerika’ya aldigim bilet tek gidis oldugu icin seyehat acentasi vizem olmadan bu bileti duzenleyemeyecigini soyluyor. Kardesim sen bileti ver parani al tum sorumluluk bana ait diyorum ve konu kapaniyor. Ancak Temmuz sonu Almanya’ya dondugumde hakikaten tek gidis biletlerde vize gerekiyormus. GMPR organizasyonundan bir arkadas benim icin Berlin Amerikan konsoloslugundan randevu almis. Gece boyu arabayla yol alip konsolosluga geldigimde birde bakiyorum bekleme kuyrugu uzun mu uzun. Kapida randevum olan kadin memurun ismini verip ozel bir oncelikle iceriye ummadigim bir sekilde girebiliyorum. Vize gorevlisi bayan oncelikle vize islemini son gune biraktigim icin oldukca kiziyor ama Birlesmis Milletlerin daha once konsolosluga verilmis tavsiye mektubu oldukca ise yariyor ve bana ozel muamele yapiyorlar. Ama son anda bayan memur bana Turkce iyi yolculuklar dileyince ne oldugunu anlayamiyorum. Meger bayan Turk’mus.  Tamam vizemde cebimde yarin ucusa hazirim Seattle’a.

Bisiklet, malzemeler paketlenip erkenden yola cikiyorum. Ucakta sanki sevincten ucuyorum ancak bir yandan da acaba bu tur yapilabilecek mi diye bir soru var. Zira elimde sadece bir telefon numarasi ve de bir adres var eger adresi telefonda yanlis yazdiysam vay halime. Bu Amerika’ya ikinci gelisim, giris islemlerini tamamlayip bisikletimi monte edip gecenin bir yarisinda hava alanindan cikiyorum. Insan Amerika’ya ilk adim attiginda hep  sokak anarsisinden anlamsiz cinayetlerden, para icin soyulmaktan cekiniyor. Ben de daha ilk gun de gece karanliginda basima birsey gelmesin diye hemen hava alani yanindaki bir otele yerlesiyorum, parasi pek umurumda degil

CENTRAL AMERICA

SOUTH AMERICA

AFRICA

Tur suresince yayinladigimiz web sayfasindan kesitler: Asagidaki Linkten resimlerle beraber izleyebilirsiniz: http://bicycle.dekalog.pl/www.peaceride.org/ The Peaceride is an open grassroots event. Its purpose is to invite people all over the world to join a group of cyclists who are pedalling around theplanet for peace and better understanding ... If you believe that you want to : - communicate with people of different cultures, countries, religions,beliefs, races and help bridge the gap ; - spread knowledge of world problems and help build understanding and peace ; - promote the bike as an environmentally sound means of transport and make our planet a little cleaner ; - celebrate the New Millennium with the hope of a peaceful future within ajust society ; - promote means of communication as a tool of dialogue and democracy ; ...and make friends, then... JOIN THE PEACERIDE, for whatever the time or distance ! SEATTLE, USA, august 5, 1998 --  Bicycle riders from many nations are assembling Thursday at Westlake Park to begin a 17-month, 20,000 mile journey for peace. The challenging four-continent Great Millennium Peaceride (http://www.peaceride.org) is endorsed by UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Social and Cultural Organization) and by numerous national governments. It is intended to call attention to the hope of ordinary people, all over the globe, for an end to political conflict and a true commitment to world peace in the new millennium. Colorful kickoff ceremonies, assisted by the International Bicycle Fund, will take place at : 1 p.m. Thursday, August 6 (Hiroshima Day), Westlake Park, Seattle. A Lithuanian physicist, Sigitas Kucas [Si-GEE-tas KOO-chas], 47, is the trip leader. Also part of the Lithuanian team are Goda Ciplyte, 31, a young woman who works as an English translator in the Lithuanian Prime Minister's office; Edvardas Zizys, 62, an economics professor; and Gediminas Vasiliauskas, 35, a history student. Among the many countries represented on the ride will be Russia, Poland, Germany, Turkey, Ghana, Senegal, Croatia, Japan, and Mexico. Kucas said : in every city that we visit, from Seattle to Buenos Aires and from Haifa to Shanghai, we plan to hold a ceremony to spread our message. We want to draw attention to the growing threat to all of us due to wars and environmental pollution. We want to foster common human values and, of course, we plan to promote the bicycle as the most healthy and environmentally friendly means of transport. Local Sponsors Backers of the Great Millennium Peaceride in Seattle include Tully's Coffee, Farouche Salons, Trinity Parish, and the Urban Cafe. SAS and other airlines are providing tickets and free shipping of the bicycles, which were made to order by a German firm. Private assistance is being sought along the way to supplement these donations. Checks may be made out to Peaceride and mailed to Seattle headquarters, 914 W. Galer #4, Seattle, WA 98119. Donations are tax deductible in Europe, and U.S. nonprofit status is pending. The People The Lithuanian group, who organized the trip from their headquarters in their nation's capital, Vilnius, have extensive experience cycling as well as hiking, canoeing, and climbing in many parts of the former Soviet Union and in Western Europe. The cyclists spent most of their lives in a country that had been unwillingly annexed to the Soviet Union, so they know political violence firsthand. The fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 gave hope to the Baltic nations (Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia) that freedom was not far off, but a tremendous price was paid before independence was gained. On a bitter January day in 1991, all of the Lithuanian team members were among the huge unarmed crowd that was trying to keep Soviet tanks away from the Lithuanian Parliament building and the TV broadcasting tower in the capital, Vilnius. The Soviets fired into the defenseless crowd, killing 13. This attack only galvanized the country ' s determination. By fall, the Lithuanian rebellion had led the way in restoring the independence of not only their nation but the other Baltic states. Soon afterward, the other Soviet republics followed suit. Life in the post-Soviet nations has been difficult since then, with massive job loss, high inflation, a shortage of heating fuel, a decline in once-flourishing sciences, arts, and sports, and escalating crime. Nevertheless, the Lithuanians have worked hard together to re-establish their country as a European-style democracy. The worst appears to be over as they look forward to eventually joining the European Union. Remembering the traumas of the past decade, Kucas and the other Lithuanians will join with Russians, Poles, Croatians, Germans, and others in a living demonstration of their commitment to peace. Best represented in this group are the smaller countries that have so often been the victims of strife. This trip is really from the heart, Goda Ciplyte said. Each of us can personally appreciate what peace in the world means to the ordinary person. Esperanto speakers worldwide will have a chance to speak with the cyclists through Gediminas Vasiliauskas, who is a fluent speaker of that international language. Speaking of languages, most members of this group speak at least three languages. The world will be able to follow this trip as it winds its way across 47 nations. The cyclists will carry a 125-foot banner on which they will collect the signatures of sponsors and dignitaries at public ceremonies along the route. They will send regular satellite feeds to a European TV station, will broadcast their coordinates daily via a global positioning device, and are anticipating widespread publicity along their journey. The Trip The hardy riders have been preparing for two years to make this pilgrimage. From Seattle, the riders will bicycle down the coast to California, then to Mexico, Central, and South America, crossing from Chile to Argentina. From Buenos Aires, they will take a ship to Benin and begin a trip northward through West Africa. They will cross over from Morocco to Spain and bicycle northward through Western and Central Europe before turning south again to Greece, Israel and the Middle East. Crossing Pakistan and India, they will cycle across Southeast Asia. Finally, the cyclists will take a ship from Shanghai to Nagasaki and Hiroshima. As the second millennium ends, they will assemble at the sites of the only two atomic holocausts the world has ever known or ever will know, if their urgent message is heard. PORT BRAGG, USA, august 23, 1998 -- The Peaceriders from different countries - Lithuania, Germany, Russia,Turkey and Poland - gathered in Seattle, Washington on 6 August, Hiroshima Memorial, to start the Great Millennium Peace Ride around the world. In one and half years our international and intercultural Peace Ride Team of cyclists will visit 46 countries including North and South America, Africa, Europe, Middle East and finally Asia. To celebrate the new millennium the ride will arrive in Hiroshima, Japan, on 1 January 2000. Most of us, an international and intercultural group of eleven people, one woman and ten men, - got to know each other only on the trip. The first three weeks have been challenging. We had to get organised with our team work ­ to plan the route for the next days, buy and cook food, fix bikes and not get lost. In the first three weeks, we made over 1000 miles along the coast of the Pacific at the same time sharing our ideas with local people. To greet San Francisco and its people the Peace Ride will enter the city on 26 August 98 via Highway 1 and Golden Gate Bridge. We want to meet people interested in our cycling experiences and ideas on peace, and invite all enthusiasts to join this international event. Our aim is to bridge the gap between cultures and traditions, and share views and understanding on our different ways. Cycling is peaceful, for it does not create any threat, and the Peace Ride is open to anyone who wants to join our international group and make friends on the way, also for any distance and time. Sigitas Kucas, International Coordinator P.S. : The exact timing and venue is 2 p.m. at Northen Park Area of Golden Gate Bridge. For more information, please contact me at the following number: (1) 5037910185 or Pat Radin, USA Headquarters, at (1) 206 286 9321. Direct e-mail: sigitas@gmpr.lt. [this press release is only available in German] MEXICO, september 27, 1998 -- Gunter EHRICH fur Internet, auf Deutsch. Photo : Günter, committed Peacerider from Oldenburg, Germany. Weltenbummler mit dem Fahrad aus OLDENBURG in GERMANY z.zt Peace Ride with 10 International Bikers go around the world to Hiroshima to the 1.1.2000. "Aus den höhen mexicos z. zt. 3050 m mit einem weiblick über das blumengetraenkte land sende ich herzliche radlergruesse . Wenn man die doerfer mit ihren so anheimlichen, ruhigen, aber auch geschaeftigen treiben verlassen hat, so findet man eine ueberwaeltigende landschaft mit einem faszinierenden weitblick auf die entfernten berge. Es sind unendliche strassen die man erradelt, die sonne brennt meist vom himmel, aber manchmal regnet es auch aus vollen kuebeln. Reiter auf eseln und viehtreiber mit einem lasso und ihrer herde ziehen durchs land und schauen erstaunt auf den radler. Die mädchen mit ihren langen zoepfen und die frauen in ihrer tracht sind so schön anzusehen und ein ola oder buenos dias von mir verstaerkt das lächeln und es entsteht eine grosse freundlichkeit trotz sprachbariere. Es ist somit ein gluecklichradlerleben bis an die grenze der belastbarkeit. Hier in mexico fast überall der vw kaefer bulli. Die landschaft ist einfach betörend ,die freundlichkeit der leute ist ueberwältigend und die banditos halten sich zurück, der einblick in dieses etwas anderes verhalten der menschen hier ist eine bereicherung des lebens. Ich war vor 52 tagen zwischen den schneebergen am canadaborder gestartet. In seattle traf ich diese internationale radlergruppe von 12 radlern aus verschiedenen laendern. Zusammen bilden wir nun die peace rider und erregen doch sehr viel aufsehen in presse und fernsehen. Die meisten sind noch so jung, Slawek aus Polen ist 21, Flor aus Mexico ist 22 und Oliver aus freiburg ist 21, sie sind also zusammen so alt wie ich mit meinen nunmehr 64 jahren. Meinen 64 geburtstag feierte ich in der kargen wuestenlandschaft von mexico und die zeitungen berichteten am naechsten tag sogar auf den titelseiten davon. Diese medienarbeit die nun hier in mexico entstanden ist, belastet manchmal schon den radlernach diesen knueppelharten etappen, bringt aber auch ganz tolle kontakte und kostenlose hoteluebernachtungen. In Seattle warenwir also gestartet und es ging zunaechst durch die traumwaelder Oregons nach californien San Francisco . dort fuhr ich nun zum dritte mal mit meinem fahrrad ROSINANTE über die golden gate brücke.weiter ging es dann immer am pacific entlang über Los Angeles nach San Diego und dann über die grenze nach Mexico. Die wueste mit ihrer hitze bis 40 grad keine Baüme , so selten doerfer waren eine totalherausforderung für alle. Dort bei den kilometersteinen ab 64, bei km 63 u.s.w liess ich nocheinmal mein so reiches radler leben revue passieren und ich erinnerte mich an all meine vievielen lebensjahre die reich aber auch manchmal traurig waren vor allem die hitlerzeit.meinen 35 dienstjahren und der letzten 3 harten scheidungfolgejahren nach fast 40 ehejahren. Aber ich bin nun ein gereifter gluecklich weltenradler und fühle mich topfitt wie ein alter turnschuh und kann nun auch meine lebenserfahrungen weitergeben an meine nunmehr 9 mitradler und an die vielen menschen die mir auf dem planeten erde als radler begegnet sind. Bei den vielen interviews kann man natlich auch viel rueberbringen von dieser idee des peace ride mit dem fahrrad around the world und kann über frieden und freundschaftit menschen und natur sprechen um fuer wasser , erde und luft etwas zu tun , damit spätere generationen auch noch eine moeglichkeit haben auf dieser erde zu leben . Es ist wirklich zeit .dass sich das verhalten der nenschen gegenueber der natur aendert. Es ist ein wunerschöner planet erde auf dem wir menschen leben . Die fuelle der farben. Der noch vorhandenen lebewesen habe ich bei meinen vielne radtrips auf der ganzen erde gesehen ich sah die kontraste bei meinen radtouren auf taiwan in china in indien ; nepal, tibet, russia, japan, korea und auch in den usa und osteuropa. Und nun versuchen wir 10 peace rider durch unsere radtour etwas rueberzubringen von dem gedanken von frieden und freiheit auf diesem planeten erde dem menschen und der natur gegenueber. So bin ich sehr dankbar für jeden tag den gott mir gibt und möchte alle menschen bitte die diese zeilen lesen ; etwas zu tun fuer den frieden auf dieser erde den menschen gegenueber und auch gegenueber der angeschlagenen natur". In dankbarkeit, Guenter Ehrich aus Oldenburg and the Peace Rider from around the world. PARIS, FRANCE, may 31, 1999 -- On 31 May the participants of the Great Millennium Peace Ride - Goda Ciplyte, Sigitas Kucas, Edvardas Zizys (Lithuania), Swavomir Platek (Poland), Walter Ramon (Peru), Pier and Carlota (Italy), Ancica (Croatia), who joind the ride later, payed a vist to the headquarters of UNESCO, patron of the event. Under the participation of Ms. U. Karvelis, Permanent UNESCO Representative for Lithuania, the peace riders met the officials of the UNESCO secretariat - Mr. H. Yuskevicius, Deputy Director General for Information, Information Technology and Communications, Ms. K. Savolainen, Head of the Department for Peace and Culture, Mr. Horst Godick, Head of the Foreign Relation Section for Europe and North America. Peace missioners introduced the project idea - to draw the attention of the mankind to the necessity to resolve political and ecological problems peacefully. The Peace Ride, open bicycle event which started almost a year ago, will accomplish the mission on 1 January 2000 in Hiroshima, Japanese city - a symbol of threat of the mankind's destruction. Mr. Yuskevicius greeted the riders and emphasised the importance of the UNESCO ethic mission and the promotion of peace in the consciousness of the people. Ms. K. Savolainen regreted that the arrival of the Peace Ride in Paris does not coinside with the timing of the World Conference for Education and Sports, which aims to promote peace and culture. The conference to be held on 5 - 7 of July in Paris is jointly organised by the UNESCO and the International Olympic Committee. Ms. K. Savolainen encouraged the peace riders to send a greeting note for the conference to be read to its participants during the opening ceremony. Mr. H. Godicke joked about the riders calling them "peace practitioners'' and expressed gratitude for contribution to the promotion of peace and culture in the world. He also handed over a list of UNESCO associated schools, national UNESCO commissions and its offices in the world. He urged the Peace Ride to inform UNESCO representatives in advance about the arrival and encourage them to take part in this beutiful mission. Ms. U. Karvelis, Permanent UNESCO Representative for Lithuania, was delighted that the initiative has been launched by the Lithuanians, who have suceeded in organising an international event. Summing up she wished the riders perseverance and good luck in the attempts to change the culture of war to the culture of peace in the consciousness of the world people. The UNESCO officials signed the symbolic Peace Banner carried by the riders, who later gave an interview to the UNESCO radio programme in Lithuania. As the result of the meeting it has been agreed to organise a photo exhibition and demonstrate a film about the Peace Ride project at UNESCO headquarters in the year 2000, the international year of peace and culture. Permanent UNESCO Representation for Lithuania The concept of the Peaceride was born in Athens, Greece in 1993, during an impromptu meeting of world cyclists who discussed the different conflicts seen in their travels. They decided to create a social experiment to celebrate diversity and honor traditions of peace embedded in many cultures. Throughout the various stages of the Peaceride organization, individuals directly involved have been sharing the common perspective that things need to be done in order to save our beautiful planet, to create further opportunities for people to live and co-operate together on every level, and be on the front lines of a world wide liberation movement for the good of all humanity. The people of the Peaceride have chosen to learn and evolve from the years of past initiatives that failed in order to remain on a constant upward trend of creating the organization and events of their dreams. Today, they are looking at ways of creating a coalition movement between individuals, organizations and institutions throughout the world with the purpose of enhancing general awareness, mutual tolerance and respect in multicultural societies. At the present time (27/10/99) the main group are of 11: Sigitas, Goda, Edvardas from Lithuania, Slawomir and Waldemar from Poland, Manuel from Mexico, Walter from Peru, Carlotta and Pier fom Italy, Ancica from Croatia, Berthlinde from Germany. Oliver (Germany) left the ride in Tirgu Mures, Romania, 15 July 1999, Ahmet (from Turkey) left in Gagnoa, Ivory Coast, 11 March 1999, Gediminas (from Germany) left in Buenos Aires, Argentina, 13 February 1999, Gunter ( from germany) left in Iquique, Chile, 10 January 1999 America Africa Europe Asia You will find in this section the Peaceride route. From Seattle, we will bicycle down the coast to California, then to Mexico, Central, and South America, crossing from Chile to Argentina. From Buenos Aires,we will take a ship to Benin and begin a trip northward through West Africa. We will cross over from Morocco to Spain and bicycle northward through Western and Central Europe before turning south again to Greece, Israel and the Middle East. Crossing Pakistan and India, we will cycle across Southeast Asia, and, finally, we will take a ship from Shanghai to Nagasaki and Hiroshima ! The task of making a realistic itinerary is quite enormous, as at the present time there are too many uncertainties and it is impossible to foresee everything. Thus, the more exact route and dates for each country will be reconsidered and modified on the spot taking into consideration aims, principles, interests, logic of the peace ride and, surely, advice of Peaceride coordinators and ourselves. The general route schedule and the line will not be changed and will remain flexible. This will give us more opportunities to include countries on the way. The average riding speed has been estimated as of 80 km/day. In the absence of trucks much of the way will have to be covered by some kind of transport, mostly trains, but where the circumstances allow to do that, it could be increased up to 100 km/day. This would make less transportation problems and give more chances to enjoy leisurely biking. The proposed route has some time reserves.

Here are letters that we have received through your emails. Don't hesitate to add your own contribution here. If it is a question, we will try to answer it as soon as possible. Our answers are displayed in yellow. Go to the last messages [updated on january 27, 1999] "I hosted the peaceriders on wednesday night before they left Seattle. We had a nice barbeque and made some music. I wish all the riders a safe and happy journey!"_ Albert Kaufman / Visit my community , 07 Aug 1998 "I will be with you in spirit and will be following your progress on the web. Best Wishes and I will be writing more later" Ron, 07 Aug 1998 "Somos VIDA - Instituto para la Protección del Medio Ambiente, asociación civil sin fines de lucro que trabaja en conservación ambiental y fomenta el uso de la bicicleta como vehículo alternativo a través de su Escuela de Ciclismo CICLOVIDA. El motivo de la presente es para felicitarlos por su iniciativa en programar este importante evento, y felicitarlos más aún por haberle dado inicio este 6 de Agosto. Como debe ser de su conocimiento nuestra institución ha suscrito un convenio con SERVAS - PERU, para el desarrollo de las actividades deportivas de GMPR en el Perú. Como ya les informará la representante de SERVAS - PERU (y contacto de GMPR en nuestro País) Srta. Soledad Olazo, hasta el momento nuestras coordinaciones han tenido muy buena recepción por prate de autoridades locales tanto de Lima como en algunas provincias, hay una gran espectativa por el evento y estamos seguros que a la llegada de los ciclistas al Perú será bien recibidos y un equiop peruano los acompañará en su recorrido. Reiterando nuestra felicitación nos despedimos de Uds. Arturo E. Alfaro Medina , Presidente, VIDA Luis Cabrera Chávez, Director, CICLOVIDA Elías Chávez Muñoz, Coordinador , CICLOVIDA, 10 Aug 1998. "I saw the van while you were stopped at a parking lot in Warrenton, OR. I was very curious about your mission. Now that I have combed over your Website I am thrilled about being able to follow your expedition. My husband and I only wish we had known about your travel through this area as we would have loved to have assisted you with accomodations! Best of luck and know you have two more encouraging you along the way. Leslie & Joseph, 13 Aug 1998 "To all my new Peaceride friends -- the brave lady Goda, Edvardas, Gediminas, Gunter, Ahmet, Denis, Oliver, Kristoff, Ignas, Slawek (and to my old friend, Sigitas) -- Seattle is not the same since you left. We miss your happy energy! I wish you a breeze at your back, long-lasting bicycle tires, and a good, safe road as you bring your beautiful message to all the world. Love, Pat from GMPR Seattle Headquarters, 13 Aug 1998. "Saw your van this morning in Brookings Oregon. And for the next hour and a half I had to keep repeating peaceride.org to myself (i think peaceride.org is now stuck in my brain) I will check back often and look to see where the riders are. Good Luck on the long trip ahead! Windsong, 18 Aug 1998 "Dear peaceriders, you are welcome in Colombia. If you are planning to visit Colombia, please don´t hesitate to contact us in Cali. We will be very happy helping you. Good luck in your round the world peaceride. Jose M. Borrero ,18 Aug 1998 An answer from the riders : "To all people who have contacted us, we are happy to hear and see your interest and we particularly appreciate your support and good greetings which helps us to move on. I got your messages printed and will pass to everyone to read. We are waiting for them and will try to reply as often as we can. Some people laugh that we, Lithuanians, are computer freeks. OK. But today's communications give us this opportunity, and we like to talk and hear from you. Goda, 18 aug 1998 "Go on and bring your messages to the world ! Dear Peaceriders, some of you I know since several month. Now I`m thinking about you all and I will wish you the best for your whole trip !!! I myself be now also on a trip around the world - with the bicycle and as a ambassador for the Peaceride !!! At the moment I`m sitting in front of the PC with your/our T-shirt! At the moment I`m in Kathmandu, I came from Germany/Europe. I can tell you, ASIA IS GREAT! Very friendly people and interesting culture! Maybe we will meet next spring on the road between Maroc and France. All my best wishes for you! Christoph Fuhrbach, 21 aug 1998 / Follow Christoph's world trek at http://unet.univie.ac.at/~a9119321/worldbike/ "Even as I wear a Peace in the Streets shirt I receive your message--what a coincidence. Let me know if you need a place to stay in the Bay Area. I am a bike activist preparing for the big Critical Mass bicycle ride this friday : http://www.xinet.com/bike/peace/ Jason Meggs, 26 aug 1998 "Camped next to you at Standish-Hickey Park Aug.21 . It was nice having a group as large as yours as quiet as you were next to us .We saw some of you again on Sat. in Westport. I was interested in what you were doing so I checked the website Sun. upon our return home.Will keep up with your progress. Good luck and enjoy the U.S.A. D.Esrock., 26 aug 1998 "Enjoyed playing music with you at my house in Seattle. Congratulations on your first 1000 kilometers. I hope you enjoy San Francisco - it's one of my favorite cities ! Albert & Freddie, 28 Aug 1998 "Hi, Peace Riders! Saw your van and bikers at the P.O. today in San Diego. You're making good progress, and I wish you well. Hadn't heard of your mission before, but will check back at your site from time to time and pray for your safety. Patty in San Diego, 4 sep 1998 "Dear friends, I read of the journey you're on in either "Bicycling" or "Outside" magazine last year. As a former cross-continental traveler and peacemaker (walked across the U.S. on the Great Peace March in 1986) I was instantly interested! I've clicked onto your web page for the first time and am so happy to read of your progress! I don't expect that your route will bring you to Nebraska, so I will offer my best wishes to you all for a wonderful trip. Peaceful journeys. Sheila Stratton, Lincoln, Nebraska USA, 20 sep 1998 "It was a wonderful experience for me to have met your group in my home town of Ocotlan, Jalisco. Mexico. I am impressed by your determination and courage. I hope that you enjoyed your short visit to our town during the celebration of our Lord Jesus Christ (El Senor de la Misericordia). To Godas and Sigitas : I particularly enjoyed our discussion in front of the church just prior to the fireworks where you described your group's mission and purpose. I commend you for your dedication. Buena Suerte Amigos. Ignacio Ochoa, 22 sep 1998 "Hello Friends : We are Fernando and Omar here in Peru ; Omar will be your host when you arrive to Cusco, Peru. We expect to see you very soon. and we are sure you will have a great moment with us here in this beautiful land. If you have any questions about the route in Peru, please contact us at ecomontana@hotmail.com or you can visit us at http://angelfire.com/pe/ecomontana. See you soon. Omar Zarzar, Fernando B, 5 oct 1998 "An alle, die für den Frieden unterwegs sind: Herzliche Grüsse von der Kirchengemeinde Stollhamm. Wir sind in Gedanken bei Euch und natürlich besonders bei Günther. Wir freuen uns auf seinen Bericht. Gott befohlen! Eure Rudi, Jan und Joachim ,9 oct 1998 "Cusco, Peru, km 79350. D'abord bravo pour la qualité du Peaceride site ! Parti le 12 mars 1994 de Geneve, Suisse, mes roues m'ont fait tournaye autour de la planète. J'aimerais bien joindre le Peaceride debut janvier juste avant Santiago du Chili et comme j'écris, j'aimerais bien les publier dans Bike Culture par exemple. Il faudra tout de même un zeste de chance pour que nos routes se croisent à temps. Good luck and bike ! Claude Marthaler started his bike journey on the 12th of March 1994 from Geneva, his hometown. He has ridden through the southern republics of the former Soviet Union, crossed the Indian sub-continent, and cycled through the varied terrains of China, South Korea and Japan. Claude is now in South America heading to the southernmost tip. Read about Claude's journey in English or French in "Writings from the Road". Web : http://www.Redfish.com/Yak E-mail : yak83@hotmail.com. Claude Marthaler ,16 oct 1998 "Laukiam Jusu atvykstant i Lietuva, maloniai prisijungsime prie Jusu zygio, gaila tik, kad trumpam. Tikekimes, kad Jums viskas gerai seksis atvykti iki Lietuvos ir riedeti toliau. GERO KELIO!!! Justinas ir Augis,Vilnius, 25 oct 1998 "EN PERU SEGUIMOS AUMENTANDO LA ESPECTATIVA ,PARA RECIBIRLOS GRANDES HAZAñAS REQUIEREN GRANDES ESFUERZOS ,LES DESEAMOS LOS MEJORES EXITOS ,LOS ESTAMOS ESPERANDO PARA SU ARRIBO A PERU - RECIBAN NUESTROS SALUDOS LUIS CABRERA DIRECTOR CICLOVIDA ELIAS CHAVEZ COORDINADOR CICLOVIDA 2 nov 1998 "Hi! I'll be short... :))) Best regards from Lithuania!!! I wish you : no glass on your road (I hate flat tires too :) many hills - but only to ride downhill and not up! wind from behind :OK. many sunny days! Sorry for Edvardas... :( Hope he'll be well again soon Meet you in Lithuania P.S. Lietuviskai... Kazkaip man atrodo, kad lietuviai bus vieninteliai, kurie iveiks visa kelia nuo pradzios iki pabaigos. O kaip jums atrodo? Laikykites! Rasius Malskaitis,3 nov 1998 "Hello dear peace riders I hope evrithing is ok with Eduarde. Waht has happened with his eye ? I would like to stay in Guatemala and ride with you in to Southamerika.... becouse the Wintertime coming soon in Switzerland. I wish you all the best on the Road and take care. And the best wish you need...always two finger air betwen the road and the Tube/rim. hasta luego Amigos Pedro, Swiss-Cordinator GMPR, 4 nav 98 "I want to wish all of you a great success in your peace ride endeavors. I keep track of your journey via the web. Thanks for keeping us informed as you make your way around the world. Betty Roe (Your Arizona Friend.), 8 nov 98 "Dear Riders, I've read all your webpage. CONGRATULATIONS ! I really admire you all for realizing this great Ride in spite of all the problems. You are great! As for me I'm travelling the world together with Chopin my private way. And it's been a magical trip too. So far we've hitch-hiked across Canada from New York to Vancouver and from Vancouver we went for a great trip to the north which brought us to Alaska. A fantastic journey, we even hitched a ride with a small aeroplane there. But I realize it's much easier and comfortable for us than it is for you. And I admire greatly what you are doing. And as always wishing you all the best. Make peace a reality. Kinga, Vancouver, 20 nov 98 "Felicidades de Didier y ninos Queridos amigos, de todo corazon les deseo un mejor momento para todos ustedes y los demas que en este viaje se unen para demostrar que la paz se puede encontrar en cualquier parte del globo terraqueo, mientras se quiera hacerlo ! Que viva Jesucristo en vuestros corazones por siempre. De todo corazon; Didier Ramirez C. Les saludan tambien los "pequenos gigantes" Jhoan ramirez, tengo 10 anos Cristhian ramirez, tengo 12 anos Alexander ramirez, tengo 9 anos Juan david ramirez, tengo 5 anos Paola andrea ramirez, tengo 7 anos Nathalia ramirez, tengo 5 anos Estos ninos son primos hermanos. Goda gracias por tu amistad... 28 nov 98 "Manau, kad Lietuva garsi ne vien tik Aaboniu, bet gali ir yra zmoniu, kurie gali parodyti, jog mes dar esam "gyvi", jog Zeme ne vie tik branduoliniu ir nebranduoliniu valstybiu salis. Laikykites!.. 2 dec 98 "May the stars that I see on my southern horizon stand watch over the riders this Christmas night. And may our wishes for this world's peace encircle us all. Mary Cunningham, E-mail: cunn235@lni.wa.gov, 24 dec 98. "Looking for ideas of ways to spend this millenium I came across your peace ride. As a leisure cyclist I thought it may be a good idea. My little rides in Cheshire England are very tame compared to yours. What an adventure !!! I hope you make it through to the next millenium , and may peace be with you. I will look in again to see when you are coming to UK and maybe join you. Helen Patrick, 26 dec 98 "I miss the team a lot , each one of you became special for me for ever , I hope many other persons enjoy this special team that finally became for me like a family ,continue your mision , and take with you the special message of peace and love for the world, don´t forget me, I will try to be in contact always with you. Your little FRIEND , Mary hilario,17 de enero, Peru, 17 jan 1999 VILNIUS, LITHUANIA. July 26, 1998 On the 26th of July 1998, at the Independence Square in Vilnius, Lithuania, took place the farewell ceremony of the lithuanian group, who have organized the Peaceride trek around the world. A moment before, they had been received by Lithuanian President Valdas Adamkus, who signed the Peace Banner they will carry all around the world. Sun, 26 July 1998 12:30:39 I am Sigitas Kucas, 47, a lithuanian physicist. Also part of the Lithuanian team are Goda Ciplyte, 31, a young woman who works as an English translator in the Lithuanian Prime Minister's office; Edvardas Zizys, 62, an economics professor; and Gediminas Vasiliauskas, 35, a history student. Among the many countries represented on the ride will be Russia, Poland, Germany, Turkey, Ghana, Senegal, Croatia, Japan, and Mexico. We want to draw attention to the growing threat to all of us due to wars and environmental pollution. We want to foster common human values and, of course, we plan to promote the bicycle as the most healthy and environmentally friendly means of transport. In every city that we visit, from Seattle to Buenos Aires and from Haifa to Shanghai, we plan to hold a ceremony to spread our message. We organized the trip from our headquarters in our nation's capital, Vilnius, and we have extensive experience cycling as well as hiking, canoeing, and climbing in many parts of the former Soviet Union and in Western Europe. We spent most of our lives in a country that had been unwillingly annexed to the Soviet Union, so we know political violence firsthand. The fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 gave hope to the Baltic nations (Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia) that freedom was not far off, but a tremendous price was paid before independence was gained. On a bitter January day in 1991, all of the Lithuanian team members were among the huge unarmed crowd that was trying to keep Soviet tanks away from the Lithuanian Parliament building and the TV broadcasting tower in the capital, Vilnius. The Soviets fired into the defenseless crowd, killing 13. This attack only galvanized the country ' s determination. By fall, the Lithuanian rebellion had led the way in restoring the independence of not only their nation but the other Baltic states. Soon afterward, the other Soviet republics followed suit. Life in the post-Soviet nations has been difficult since then, with massive job loss, high inflation, a shortage of heating fuel, a decline in once-flourishing sciences, arts, and sports, and escalating crime. Nevertheless, the Lithuanians have worked hard together to re-establish their country as a European-style democracy. The worst appears to be over as they look forward to eventually joining the European Union. Remembering the traumas of the past decade, we will join with Russians, Poles, Croatians, Germans, and others in a living demonstration of our commitment to peace. Best represented in this group are the smaller countries that have so often been the victims of strife. This trip is really from the heart. Each of us can personally appreciate what peace in the world means to the ordinary person. Esperanto speakers worldwide will have a chance to speak with us through Gediminas Vasiliauskas, who is a fluent speaker of that international language. Speaking of languages, most members of this group speak at least three languages. The world will be able to follow this trip as it winds its way across 47 nations. We will carry a 125-foot banner on which they will collect the signatures of sponsors and dignitaries at public ceremonies along the route. We will send regular satellite feeds to a European TV station, will broadcastour coordinates daily via a global positioning device, and are anticipating widespread publicity along our journey ! We have been preparing for two years to make this pilgrimage. From Seattle, we will bicycle down the coast to California, then to Mexico, Central, and South America, crossing from Chile to Argentina. From Buenos Aires, they will take a ship to Benin and begin a trip northward through West Africa. We will cross over from Morocco to Spain and bicycle northward through Western and Central Europe before turning south again to Greece, Israel and the Middle East. Crossing Pakistan and India, we will cycle across Southeast Asia. (Look at the routes section of the site for more details). Finally,we will take a ship from Shanghai to Nagasaki and Hiroshima. As the second millennium ends, we will assemble at the sites of the only two atomic holocausts the world has ever known or ever will know, if our urgent message is heard. (Sigitas, Lithuania). SEATTLE, USA. july 30 - august 6, 1998 From various sources - Seatle, Washington, USA Thu, 30 July 1998 22:10:21 Here we are in Seattle, going to spend a second night. Now we are trying to arrange the Mayor to sign on the Peace banner and get some officials to open the Peace Ride in Seattle. Organising things here is "decentralised" as they say here. So we expect some phone and fax numbers to work thourgh to get some publicity and attention. We visited Trinity Church where we can sleep, if more people arrive. I am sure there will be more. One German and one turkish arrived today. At least we, Lithuanians, will not be the only people cycling. With us we have a lot of technical equipment: two PCs and a Palmtop, on top of that a GPS thing to transmit the coordinates where we are. We have a contract with the company which gave us the equipment to fix our location. We will send our coordinators through Internet to Vilnius, in Lithuania, and they will put our route on the map. (Sigitas, Lithuania) Sun, 2 Aug 1998 10:30:39 There is not enough time to write about everything in time. We still have a lot of things to organise and there are not enough hands to help. We are now 6 riders : 4 Lithuanians, 1 Turkish and 1 Russian. On Monday Gunter from Germany is coming, on Tuesday Oliver and on Wednesday Christoph. Slawek from Poland on 8 August. We don't have the last news from Ghana and Iran. Some people will join us in Seattle for short distances. We have just bought a van and tomorrow probably I will try to test this equipment. It is nice here in Seattle. We are staying with my friend Pat who helps us a lot. (Sigitas, Lithuania) Mon, 3 Aug 1998 14:25:12 Trying to fix a farewell ceremony for ourselves in the centre of Seattle. On Sunday we went to a restaurant owned by a Turk. We have a Turk in our team - Ahmet- he arranged this breakfast for us. We also bought a van, a celebration for us. And I am trying to sort out the messed up Peace Ride documents. (Goda, Lithuania) Thu, 7 Aug 1998 16:39:33 The group received a big welcome in Seattle when they began arriving on July 29. The Lithuanan community here began raising money and arranging accommodations for them; the Turkish community provided a wonderful breakfast at a local restaurant ; and the International Bicycle Club held a big barbecue. The riders bought a used red van to carry equipment and any cyclists who may need a rest. They stayed together at a local church, Trinity Parish, and received food donations from the local Thriftway store and Tully's Coffee. The Peace Ride started out on schedule, Thursday, August 6 (Hiroshima Day), with a ceremony at Westlake Park in downtown Seattle. The International Bicycle Fund organized the program of speeches and music, which was attended by a representative of the Mayor's Office. After a short ride through the city, the Peace Riders boarded a ferry that took them to the Olympic Peninsula, where they began their around-the-world trip. (Pat Radin, USA) Thu, 7 Aug 1998 23:49:20 Most of the time everybody was working hard, but we took this short break at Seattle's Alki Beach - looking at the sunset. (Pat Radin, USA) CENTRAL OREGON, USA. August 13,1998. Received from Pat Radin, Seattle, Washington, USA The Peace Riders have been on the road for a week. They have traveled south from Seattle, leaving the State of Washington several days ago, and are now enjoying sunny weather in central Oregon as they pedal past 100 km of beautiful sand dunes and pine forest, with the wind at their backs. They are due in San Francisco on August 26. Their route is entirely along the coastline. They do not expect any rain because the western U.S. is dry all summer (and very rainy in winter). They were joined yesterday by a Polish rider, Slawek Platek, who arrived late because of visa delays. Pat Radin BROOKINGS, USA. August 17, 1998. Received from Goda , Brookings, Oregon, USA We are having a good time - cycle, put up tents, make food, talk. It is very different from our preparation trip round Europe last year. But it is very difficult to communicate by e-mail or internet, no facilities. Today we celebrate the first thousand kilometres we have made from Seattle, and tomorrow we will enter California with the hope to be in San Fransisco on August 26 . We cycle non stop. The van is of great help - it carries our luggage and makes our life easier, it also gives an opportunity for someone who is sick or tired to rest or help, it is also indispensible when shopping. Today Gunter and I rested and went in the car. The people who go by van usually have to buy food for those who cook and get to the camping before the rest arrive and pay for the camping. Every week we sum up our expenses and divide by ten. The pay day is always the hardest - we talk long, argue and even shout. But then we get on our bikes and go down the hill five kilometres, and forget all troubles and worries. When shopping today we had some fun: we took some very basic food and asked if we could talk to the shop manager. So we explained that we are making a one-and-a half-year trip for peace and asked if he had any food to give away which he could not sell. A minute later he returned with a big box full of vegetables for free. Gunter prayed thanking God and the shop manager, and I was happy. When we arrived I put out our flag, the map showing the route, t-shirts to buy, the web site address, the Peace Banner for people to read. A few minutes later people came asking about the PR. The wonderful idea I came accross when talking to these people - cycling creates no threat or danger, cycling and talking to people is peace. And that is what we want. Goda. CRESCENT CITY, USA. August 18, 1998. Received from Goda - Crescent City, California, USA. "Yesterday we celebrated the first 1000 km and today (midday)we are entering California, an opportunity to swim in the Pacific. Today in the morning the temperature is15 ° C, for the night I have to put on two jumpers and a pair of good socks, during the day sweat all over especially when cycling 5 km long mountains. We do get a lot of interest from local people. Each day we place our flag, put the map, t-shirts and the Peace Banner for people to see. They come, talk and ask many questions. A lot would like to join, most in Europe. Weather and wind is great! Sunny and wind in the back. No accidents. Beautiful ocean views and very friendly and helpful Americans. They help to start our van in the morning, if batteries are flat, give us hot water, if our stove is out of order, or give us food for free if they can or just come and ask - what's the Peace Ride ? We are trying to establish some group duties - cooking, washing up, taking care of the van. Hope to be in San Fransisco on 26 Aug". Goda. EUREKA, CALIFORNIA, USA. August 22, 1998. Received from Pat Radin, Seattle, USA. "Bears! That is what the Peace Riders were worried about for the past two nights as they camped along the California coast in the tall, dark redwood forests. The campgrounds had heavy metal containers where the cyclists were told to store all food items. California brown bears are very intelligent and they soon learn that where there are campers, there's a lot of good food for the taking. They are also extremely strong and can rip the door right off a car if they smell food inside. However, they're not usually vicious and they try to avoid people -- all they want is the food. Aside from some nervous sleepers (because of the bear scare), our friends are having a great ride down the coast, according to a phone call from Sigitas on Friday night, August 21. The weather is excellent and the blackerries are ripe along the route, so there's always a free snack. They passed Eureka on Wednesday and expect to reach San Francisco in just a few days -- and finally they will have easy access to the Internet.". Pat Radin. SAN FRANCISCO, USA. August 31, 1998. Received from Goda Ciplyte, San Francisco, California, USA Tired but happy we arrived to the Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, CA, on august 26. The bridge seemed to have been waiting for us to admire its graceful dignity and the emerald horizon of the Pacific. San Francisco gave us a warm welcome. It was a delight to visit a smallLithuanian community, who gave our international team a substantial dinnerand opportunity to forget cycling for two days. Amazing, our web site helps us a lot in promoting peace ideas and meeting people. Amy and Alex, who discovered about our ride from the Internet,cycled a four-mile mountain to meet us, guide into the city and show the way to the Lithuanian family. Right after we stepped into the house the Lithuanian Radio in Chicago called for a direct phone interview. They too discovered about the ride from a Lithuanian daily on the Internet. A number of people see our web site address on the van and send e-mails. We even do not know them, but that is exactly what is the most thrilling about it: to get greetings supporting and encouraging us in hard and happy moments. On our part we support others - San Francisco cyclists. In the evening 28 August we joined Critical Mass, a group of more than two hundred cyclists, protesting and fighting for better biking conditions in the city. Received from Pat Radin, Seattle, Washington, USA In California, the Peaceriders crossed the Golden Gate Bridge into San Francisco right on schedule. They received a warm welcome from the Lithuanian community and stopped for a few days to take care of business before proceeding south. . SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA, USA. September 3, 1998. Received from Goda Ciplyte, San Diego, CA, USA. The 500 mile distance from Danville, San Fransisco, to Los Angeles we covered by car and cycled into San Diego on 2 September. Received from Oliver Stephan, San Diego, CA, USA Photo : Peace riders entering San Diego, California. Hey, readers, I am Oli from Germany and this is my first letter I am writing for the internet, so please do not pay attention to my mistakes. It took us a little less than a month to cycle through the US. Happily all of us are healthy, and most of the time happy. We saw the beautiful landscape - coast along the Pacific, in the North and South. I really enjoyed every day on my bike. My bike is about 8 years old, and still in a good shape. Just one time, I had to change my back wheel, when the rear rim broke due to heavy breaking. I have already made a lot of kilometres and have never heard anything like what happened to my back wheel. But well, it is good again. At the moment we are 9 people, Dennis and Ignas left us. Ignas had to go back to Vancouver to continue studies, and Dennis wanted to travel by himself, because it is too hard for him to make the distance we cycle everyday. At the moment we are happy to stay at the Polish Church on Grand Avenue in San Diego. We have been also invited by many Lithuanian and Polish communities. Thanks to all. A few words about our group. It is like everywhere, where people thinking differently have more or less problems. But nobody said that it will be just a fun-ride. This is exactly what we are cycling for - TOLERANCE - should be not just a plain word, all humans shoud EXPERIENCE it, then we will have no wars and earth pollution, and everybody would be able to enjoy LIFE more than now. Thanks for reading my Philosophy, now I am going to the city to have some fun. Top photos, from left to right : 1- Last warm reception of the Lithuanian community in San Diego. Friendly get together. 2- Peaceriders. 3- Vitas,strong and funny American Lithuanian, devoted weekend cyclist, joined us to enjoy the ride together. Bottom photos, from left to right : 1- Almis, a sincere friend and true supporter of the Peace Ride. His digital camera is helping to make the pictures you see on the screen now. 2- Friendship helps to repair bikes. Edvardas keeps the record of flat tires - 15 turing the wole trip! 3- Danguole and Almis gave us escape from the midday sun: nothing better than a cool refreshing swim in evening in a pool. They hope to join the ride in Lithuania in 1999. Danguole signing the banner. Received from Pat Radin, Seattle, WA, USA. "Sigitas phoned from San Diego on 3 September to report that the group was just about to cross the Mexican border. From there they planned to travel southeast across the desert -- where the temperatures were expected to hit 50 degrees Celsius -- toward Hermosillo, where more journalists and ceremonies await them. HERMOSILLOS, MEXICO. September 7, 1998. Photo : Peace riders waiting at the mexican borderline. Received from Pat Radin, Seattle, USA. Sigitas phoned from San Diego on 3 September to report that the group was just about to cross the Mexican border. From there they planned to travel southeast across the desert -- where the temperatures were expected to hit 50 degrees Celsius -- toward Hermosillo, where more journalists and ceremonies await them. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Hermosillos, Mexico. Now that we leave the US we are particularly thankful to all the people we met during this part of the trip : we received lots of help and attention from local people in the States we went through : Washington, Oregon and California. However, the Lithuanian communities in Seattle, San Francisco, Los Angeles and San Diego showed particular support. We would like to thank them here : Seattle Lithuanian community for helping to raise money and the International Bicycle Fund for organising the send-off ceremony in the centre of Seattle (two local TV programmes reported on the event) and Pat Radin, who helped with contacts and fundraising. San Fransisco Lithuanians bought T-shirts and donated a digital camera; Lithuanian Church of St. Casimir in Los Angeles announced the peace ride message to the parish, who generously contributed the riders and invited for a friendly chat, while Mrs. Jadvyga, an elderly Lithuanian lady in Los Angeles, donated a trailer we have been searching from the beginning. The Polish Church in Los Angeles and San Diego provided us with accommodation and food, and invited to a glass of champagne to celebrate the last day in the US. We happilly accepted it. Today, 4 September we entered Mexico. Received from Pat Radin, Seattle, USA. Sigitas telephoned on 4 sept. to report that they had some trouble after entering Mexico from Tijuana (just south of San Diego, Califonia).South of the border, they were stopped by some men who wanted the Peace Ride to pay $1,500 in order to use the highway. The local police were unable to do anything about this. The Peaceriders decided to turn north again and re-enter the U.S., in order to cross the border at Nogales, south of Tucson, Arizona, to take a different road to Hermosillo. Getting back into the U.S. was a problem for a few riders who had only single-entry U.S. visas. But in the end they were all allowed to re-enter. The story had a happy ending sent to Pat Radin on 7 September, with a mail from Sigitas Kucas : "We arrived to Hermosillo at night, met our other friends and Flor. Flor has organised everything at high level: we have accomodation and food for free in all Mexico, also attention of media and local people is secured".      LOS MOCHIS, MEXICO. September 12, 1998. Today we made the most ever :160 km. Flor Toledo has made her best to receive the ride in Mexico: every day we cycle 110 - 130 km, have excellent accomodation, food and media attention. It is unusual for the people here to see foreigners so they are very interested. The local papers in Guaymas and Novoja reported on the ride on the front pages. Cycling in Mexico is very different from USA. Very hot 35 - 40 centigrades,desert, cactuses, no shade, numbers of water liters consumed during the day, very few places to stop to take pictures. We have to stick together during the whole day, because police escorts each day to give the most security. They are very kind and helpful - carry water and take our bikes into the car if someone is tired. Mexican people are hot people just like the climate - they smile, sing,dance and are very nice friends. GUADALAJARA, MEXICO. September 1998. Received from Sigitas Kucas. Guadalajara, Mexico, welcomes the peace ride. The Mexican route was very well organised just as well as the meeting, something no one of us could expect. In the week-end the local authorities organised aerobics classes right in the centre of the city. Flor and Goda joined the girls for some time. After a while the lessons finished and they announced the Peace Riders name after name. We had to get on to the stage. The girls screamed with joy when they saw Oli, he turned red instantaneuosly. The organisers told about our aims and gave a T-shirt each. The map is always very helpful when showing our route. It gives a clearer idea of where we are going and the countries we are from. Sigitas MORAVATIO, MEXICO. September, 1998. Received from Sigitas Kucas. In Mexico we visited 4 schools. We arrived in Moravatio, Michoakan, after very hard cycling - rain and big mountains. Anxious and excited, the children met us at mayor's office. In the beginning they asked some questions, but shyness disappeared right after the meeting was over. Making a thick and tight wall around the table the children asked us to sign on note-books,pieces of paper or even a basket-ball. The village mayor told the meeting was unusual for one, no one in Mexico makes tours by bike, and second, children were particularly happy to meet strange strangers, for they do not see much around this place. Goda said one girl come up, gave a coin and said - "suerte" - good luck! Flor Toledo, the mexican coordinator, helped us to pass the message of peace, friendship and understanding. Even Gediminas, called by one Mexican man "a mule", smiled. MAZATLAN, MEXICO. September 15, 1998. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Mazatlan, Mexico Today we are going to celebrate the Independence Day of Mexico. People say - a lot tequila, singing and dancing on this occasion. I DO NOT FEEL MUCH LIKE THAT, I have been sick from everything: too big speed, too heavy heat, not enough rest, heavy food. I had a terrible fever and a diaria, hopefully it is about to finish. Yesterday it rained, so when you go out, it is like a wet sauna and everything sticks to your body, and you do not want anything but just a cool place with less humidity, do not know how long I can bear this, despite the very hospitable people here. A local paper, EL DEBATE, printed an article about us one morning. Tomorrow we still rest at this young sea-side-resort. I want to write more about Mexico. Much love and wet Mexican kisses. MEXICO 6. September 29, 1998. Received from Sigitas Kucas, Mexico. Our schedule in Mexico is very tight. Flor (the mexican coordinator) hasorganised all the route through her country. We are not paying for hotels and food, police is acompanying us on highways, we have meetings with children at schools, with journalists at press conferences. Almost every day the Peace Ride is on local newspapers. The local cyclists are joining us and going together for one or several days. MEXICO 7. October 2nd, 1998. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Mexico. Our group has split up for some time. The passports and cash of the two germans got stolen, so these guys and Günter decided to stay in the Mexico City. Oliver went away by himself to get more relaxed. We will meet up on 5-6 in Guatemala. So the real Peace Ride group is smaller and I feel more friendly and open to what is happening around me. Moreover we rest much more than before. I too made some records in my cycling career : I cycled the highest mountain in my life - 20/25 km - and the same day made the longest distance by bike ever 150 km! I am proud and happy! We visited some schools in Mexico. Children are very happy to meet us, talk and get signatures. People in Mexico are very open and sincere. The trip is going on well. ANTIGUA, GUATEMALA. October 8, 1998. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Guatemala. This evening we are staying in Antigua (Guatemala). Since the entry cycling has been very different - very much improvised, just the opposite what was in Mexico. Today after Puebla in Mexico (Sept 27) was first hard cycling day - 115 in mountainous Guatemala. The Climate More than half of the territory is mountains 1 - 3 km high. Most of the time do not go down more than 1500 m. At night in a hotel sleep with my thick warm cardigan and Peter's socks, for my feet are always cold. The temperature at night 12 - 14 centigrade, at daytime it might be just as cold or as warm as 20 degrees. One should be prepared to face the Guatemalese weather at this time of the year. October is the rain season, but the weather here is just as changeable as in my dear Lithuania. Today I missed home so much, that I kept comparing Guatemala with my homeland, and found lots of similarities. They comfort me. So the rain season is no wonder to me, for it rains in Lithuania nearly 8 months. Sometimes 2-3 days non stop, we could beat any Guatemalese rain records! Here it may rain 10 minutes then next minute cloudes go away and I am happy being able to dry myself in the wind going down a mountain. They say that in lowlands annual temperature keeps as high as 27-30 centigrade. We have not experienced that, but I can tell you that locals (indigenous) do not seem to care much about weather changes. They wear home-made woollen beautifully decorated clothes all year round - in winter and summer. Their homes look very simple - from wood or bricks in the best case. In the south of Guatemala 40-60 km is an active Vulcan zone. Arriving to Solola (2000 m) on th coast of the lake Atitlan we decided to relax and next day took a boat to the village Santiago, squeezed between the two giants: volcano Toliman (3158 m) and San Pedro (2995 m). Guatemala has 30 new active vulcanoes and there is not a year without an earthquake. The active zone starts in Washington state (USA). In the US and they have signs for Tsunami, showing the evacuation route - up the hill. And in San Francisco there is a special telephone service providing free information on all earthquakes registered that day. Here I have not seen more except for the quiet vulcanoes at the lake. The People Very shy and industrious. The Guatemalese not like Mexican locals would do anything to get work or money. At the M-G border we spent the whole day. The car pass got lost so we had to get the new one in the nearest village 80 km away, so I noticed a few things. At night I saw the Guatemalese, short,darkish skin, in simple clothes, going to Mexico to pick coffee. Mexicans to lazy to do this work, they prefer to re-sell handcrafts made in Guatemala. Later I saw children and teenagers dashing over the border like little invisible ants carrying boxes with PEPSI or chips. If you take more than allowed, you have to pay taxes, so the little ants help to make black money. Women do three things here: look after children - carry them on the back and feed from the breast - cook food and make handcrafts or clothes. Some of them admire me and Flor going on bikes, others laugh about the strange and unusual phenomenon. In Solola I met an American, who runs water utility works here. He told that Guatemala was the only country at the International Women's Congress 3 years ago (in China) which had no representatives! Why ? Husbands did not let them go! I was amazed today to see people working on steepest hills - they clear plants from the roads with wide knifes or work in fields picking corn, the main source of food. Where the land is more flat what we saw today before entering Antigua they really use any usable land to get most of the fertile and rich soil - potatoes, beans, broccoli, cabbages, carrots and beetroots. They even plant climbing beans in between the corn. After picking the corn the steams are excellent support for beans, so locals pick second harvest - beans. In markets of more touristic areas like Panajachel (nicknamed Gringotenango,place visited by Americans - all foreigners for them are Americans), Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala, and Chichicastenango in particular, the locals offer the most thrilling variety of souvenirs. In the latter they have markets two days a week - Thursday and Sunday. In the evening a day before the market they come to the town to build the stalls. Things offered here are tourist orientated - shorts, hats and European type blouses, none of which locals would wear. The patters and colours start sparkling after half an hour of looking at them. I felt like wanting to dive into the abundance of patters, symbols and pictures embroidered and look like one of locals. Roads Both - cyclabe and not really. If it was only this, it would be bearable. What really makes me mad is local "driving rules". Some drivers are friendly, but the majority try to overtake and go on the opposite lane nearly knocking you down. Not to mention the stinking black cloud of "emission" they throw right into your face. Tomorrow we will have 4000 km on our account, though not all of it by bike. Money Quetsali. 1 USD - 6 questsalis. Guatemala is very expensive. People ask money everywhere, even for taking a photo or drinking water, nothing like in Mexico just ask. Stamps for postcards 4 q, cheap hotel 20 q, develop a film 10 q. To make full picture about people I would add that 80 percent of the land belongs to the rich Spanish origin people, and locals try to make money by selling and asking money for whatever possible. To have a piece land means to live. But here the notion of private property does not exist. Wherever the land is workable, they work it to feed themselves. 20 q. can feed a family one day. To Finish Antigua was founded in 1543, but was removed three times. The volcano Aqua (Water volcano) was flooded and the capital was removed to the present location. After the earthquake in 1773 it was transferred to the present Guatemala City. Today the city is a national monument and protected by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Do not know the time now, I could go on, after arriving I had a good meal after a hungry day. That is probably the reason I can carry on so long with this letter. Rains hard outside. Quiet. Sigitas and Edvardas sleeping. Next time more. Love, GODA 1998.10.08. Antigua, Guatemala. GUATEMALA CITY, GUATEMALA. October 13, 1998. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Guatemala. Note about the group We try to keep on going despite all the inner troubles. Well, to start from the beginning Denis [from Russia]has left us long time ago. He cycled for two or three days, then started complaining about a pain in his leg, went in the van for some days and then decided to leave us. He told his final decision in Los Angeles. Chris [from Germany] left us too. He said the group we have is not according to his understanding and he misses his wife too much to go on, he got married just before the ride. But.. we have two other people with us. Hugo and Manuel. They are happy Mexican people. They never stop laughing. Hugo wants to go up to Argentina, Manuel makes the whole trip. The three of them including Flor are very helpful in contacts, finding places and bargaining. The goup changes in each country. In USA we had created a climate of our own. We shared duties of cooking, washing dishes, driving the van, buying food, doing the laundry. In USA slept in tents, during the day cycled by ourselves meeting in the evening. In Mexico Flor was the director. No deviation from the programme planned. Police escorting us, no time to go to the toilet or take a photo. After arriving to the town press conference, numerous questions, lots of people. Then the hotel, shower, eating, sleeping, no time and energy for anything else. Guatemala is total improvisation, where to stay, how far to go, where to meet and to get accomodation. In the end we got more friendly, we love and appreciate each other more without expecting to be ideal. GUATEMALA CITY 2, GUATEMALA. October 13, 1998. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Guatemala. About Edvardas At the moment Edvardas is in hospital in Guatemala City. He had an eye operation. I am staying with him. The rest of the group continues. It would be of great help if an announcement in our web site could be made for people to know that the peace ride needs help. If they want to help, they could transfer money to help Edvardas and me to cope with financial difficulties. Our van also takes a lot of money. But we cannot do without it, especially now. Because Edvardas could join the Peace Ride in the ideal case two weeks later, but anyway he will have to be transported, stay in the car and no cycling, for two or three months. Thanks to San Carlo University here in Guatemala. They let me in to write the message.. GUATEMALA CITY 3, GUATEMALA. October 15, 1998. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Guatemala, during Edvardas eye operation. Guatemala City, the capital, was moved three times since the first one was built, but I would say there are four Guatemalas: the first one destroyed by Agua volcano, the second - Antigua - destroyed by an earthquake and later rebuilt, the third - old, shabby and overpopulated Guatemala, and the modern, spacy and richer Guatemala - a large central avenue with banks and embassies both sides of the road. When I asked for a hotel, a receptionist offered me a "special" prise. That is what they usually say - 90 USD for a room for two. Trying to hold the laughter, I explained I wanted the cheapest possible. The receptionist then recomended a few hotels in Zona one, but warned me to be very cautious, and not walk at night. I would have gladly kept the "promise", if I would not have to manouvre between the hotel and the hospital. In the beginning I was apalled by the noise of local buses - it was hopeless, if I tried to hear Edvardas walking beside. Later he told me the ?secret? - a car without an exhaust consumes less petrol! Elsewhere in the world you are fined for these tricks! I believe Edvardas for I do not drive. Eventually I put up with the disaster. Another secret I discovered in the second day - the heavy dust the buses emit keeps a lot of people busy, for they have to keep the plastic toys, shirts or purses they are selling clean at least before the customer stops to have a quick look. Another attraction Guatemala is proud of is armed solders at every other shop, each bank or post office. I can not see another so idol job as this one. I guess this is one of the old-fashioned decorations of Guatemala, when in 1944 and 1947/8 the Government, represented by army people including the president himself, suppressed the peoples fight for democracy. Others say it is for the crime control! The shops which can not afford to hire a security man, fix iron fences on the windows. But if you are shopping around and want to refresh with a cup of coffee in the closest shop, do not worry about the inconvenience. The distance between two fence spokes is wide enough for a cup of coffee, but one should be considerate and ask for two - three smaller bags with rolls, if you are buying more you can eat on the spot. There is only one thing I can not get used to and never will - waiting. Silly waiting. The Guatemalese way. My Goddness it takes a lot more patience I could imagine. I am not an easily pleased customer, I know that, but why do I have to go to the hotel receptionist asking for hot water five or six times, and get it only after one hour when I am in my bed dreaming ? Why do I have to ask doctor to stamp the letter and sign it, for otherwise it will not be offical ? Why do I have to wait to pay for a glass of juice, after I have drank it ? Do you know the answer ?. GUATEMALA CITY 4, GUATEMALA. October 18, 1998. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Guatemala, during Edvardas eye operation. Seven in the morning I was awake and eight I was already wandering in the streets of this ancient town. I never trusted my instincts so clearly as now. And I let myself wonder without a clue which way to go, I just walked. The morning was clear and town quiet. The colours and shades of the rising sun lead my way. My camera was handy and took a lot of pictures of whatever caught my eye - the play of the colours and shapes of the running church roofs and old-fashioned lamp-posts. I was astonished when I realised that in fact I was attracted by the volcano, noble and graceful. Does not matter where I stood and how I looked, it was higher than anything else and looked down upon the town - the houses, arch and church ruins - and me. Even the tolling bells could not count time, could the volcano ? It rained in the afternoon. My soul rested listening to the murmur of the pouring rain and warm blood twinkled in my legs having peacefully carried me along the quiet streets behind which life has its own colours and only blooming climbers give out the secret - the walls can not keep the bursting joy. Antigua Guatemala is so pretty that it insprired me to search for something diferent and beautiful. Here it is. SING, FEAST, MAKE MUSIC AND LOVE, ALL IN MY PRESENCE, FOR I AM THE ECSTASY OF THE SPIRIT AND JOY ON EARTH. I WHO AM THE BEAUTY OF THE GREEN EARTH AND WHITE MOON AMONG THE STARS AND THE MYSTERIES OF THE WATERS, FROM ME ALL THINGS PROCEED AND UNTO ME THEY MUST RETURN. LET WORSHIP BE IN THE HEART THAT REJOICES, FOR ALL ACTS OF LOVE AND PLEASURE ARE MY RITUALS. LET THERE BE BEAUTY AND STRENGHT, POWER AND COMPASSION, HONOUR AND HUMILITY, MIRTH AND REVERENCE WITH YOU. AND YOU WHO SEEK TO KNOW ME, KNOW THAT YOUR SEEKING AND YEARNING WILL AVAIL YOU NOT, UNLESS YOU KNOW THE MYSTERY. FOR IF THAT WHICH YOU SEEK YOU FIND NOT WITHIN YOURSELF, YOU WILL NEVER FIND IT WITHOUT. FOR I HAVE BEEN WITH YOU FROM THE BEGINNING, AND I AM THAT WHICH IS ATTAINED AT THE END OF DESIRE. THE CHARGE OF THE STARGODDESS from Craetor Mothers by Angelika Baurer, 1996. EL SALVADOR. October, 1998. Received from Sigitas Kucas. The Peaceride met a poor family in El Salvador. The children hardly ware any clothes except for special occasions. The mother is too sick to take care of them. We collected some money and bought the medicine for this woman. Gunter took care to publicise the hard status of the family. SAN JOSE, COSTA RICA. October 29, 1998. Received from Vidimantas Kucas, Lithuania This morning Sigitas with his group had to start from San Jose in direction of Panama border. They had problems with visas,but at last yesterday the stamps were placed. Goda and Edvardas booked places for the flight from Guatemala City to Bogota on November 1st. October 30, 1998. Received from Vidimantas Kucas, Lithuania Goda wrote, that she and Edvardas are in BOGOTA. The eye of Edvardas is much better. PANAMA 1. October, 1998. Peaceriders have met serious visa problems in Panama but they seem to have avoided the disaster endured by population in Guatemala and Honduras. Unfortunately no more details are available for the moment. PANAMA 2. October, 1998. The Panama Canal. Sigitas has a nice comment on that - "The canal is one of the wonders of the world, for people have managed to join both oceans - the Pacific and Atlantic, but no wonder has helped to build a road or a bridge to connect the North and South Americas". BOGOTA 1, COLUMBIA. November 4, 1998. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Bogota Edvardas and me are in Bogota ! It is still hard to believe we are here - so close to the equator waiting for the rest of the Peaceride group. I am happy and safe here. In panama airport I told Edvardas I felt like I was going home - quiet and confident. Indeed we had an arrangement with Lithuanians in Colombia, who promised to meet us at the airport, and we had all the necessary papers to pass the Colombian customs. And Edvardas eye, though still "bleeding" with tears, is much better and he can get by by himself. Believe me or not, but getting here was more simple than I had expected. TheColumbian customs stamped our passports without any questions, allowing us to stay in the country 60 days, and Algirdas, Colombian Lithuanian,has already been waiting with the Lithuanian flag at the airport entrance. The Lithuanian Embassy in Venesuela took good care of us and placed us in a nice two-room appartment. Never in my life I found myself in a more strange situation than this: getting up next morning I could hardly comprehend the country I was in, the language the people spoke and the money I had to use to buy bread. Our plane landed five times: in El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama and Bogota. Surprisingly I did not get sick, but I have to think hard to tell if San Jose is in Costa Rica or El Salvador. Monday morning (2 November) I felt terribly weak and sleepy, so I went for a walk with Edvardas. To get some fresh air and make believe I was in Colombia I forced myself to climb the hill and look down at the quiet city with the population more than two Lithuanias! The tranquility of All Saints Day (2 November)in Bogota was just as strange as sitting next to Laima, a Lithuanian lady, and chatting about his and that. Now that the transportation troubles are over - the local COPA manager insisting us to pay extra 50 USD for each bike and 20 USD airport in cash. I can think creatively. About interesting places and people. Goda. BOGOTA 2, COLOMBIA. December 4, 1998. Received from Sigitas Kucas, Columbia. In Bogota Goda and Edvardas visited the former Mayor of Bogota city - Antanas Mockus, Lithuanian born in Colombia. He is the only mayor (1995 -1997) that people can not and do not complain of stealing a penny from the Government. He is an idealist and a kind humanist too. He is trying to collect guns from the citizens of Bogota and share his understanding that human life has a value. Not just something one can give and take away, but a priceless one. For this reason he found sponsors supporting this idea and encouraged people to bring illegally kept guns and gave certificates for the same monetary value in return. He succeeded in the experiment and collected 2.300 out of 300.000 kept only in the city of Bogota. He is also a "crazy" man, for being elected mayor of the City of Bogota, he cycled to work every day and body guards followed in the car behind. Only it is a pity we could not get his signature, which could have added to our peace action a great deal. Sigitas. NOVEMBER 98 ROUTES. November 30, 1998. Received from Sigitas Kucas, Columbia. Below is the route of our last days - Day 90, Nov. 3, Penonome - Nueva Gorgona, 77.5 km, AVS 19.97 km/h, t 3h52min, max 48 km/h - Day 91, Nov. 4, Nueva Gorgona - Panama City, 94.5 km, AVS 16.68 km/h, t 5h39min, max 59 km/h, temp 16h 30min +32C - Day 92, Nov. 5, Panama City, obtaining documents - Day 93, Nov. 6 Panama city - Colon - Panama city (looking for the ship to Cartagena) - Days 94-95 Nov. 7 - 8 Panama City, weekend - Day 96 , Nov 9, holiday, Panama City - Colon, 82 km by bike - Days 97-102 , Nov. 10 - 15, Colon, looking for the ship to Cartagena During 102 days, we made 5338.7 km by bike, 9857.7 km together with transportation. - Day 103 , Nov. 16 Colon - Panama City by bus - Day 104, Nov. 17 Panama City - Puerto Obaldia by plane, Puerto Obaldia - Capurgana by boat, Capurgana - Turbo by boat - Day 105, Nov. 18 Turbo- Monteria by car, other part of the group Turbo Medellin by bus - Day 106 , Nov. 19 Monteria - Cartagena by bus >From Colon our van has been shipped to Cartagena while we had to take a plane to Puerto Obaldia and then a boat to Turbo. It is approximately 600 km directly from Colon to Cartagena and we will include these kilometers in the whole distance made by transportation. - Day 107 , Nov. 20 Cartagena, documents - Day 108, Nov. 21 Cartagena, documents - Day 109, Nov. 22 Cartagena - Valdiva ???? km, by car - Day 110, Nov. 23 Valdiva - Medellin, 150 km by car - Day 111, Nov. 24 Medellin, rest - Day 112, Nov. 25 Medellin - Supia 122 km by bike, plus 15 km by car - Day 113, Nov. 26 Supia - Manizales by car 90 km - Day 114, Nov. 27 Manizales - Pereira 51 km by bike - Day 115, Nov. 28 Pereira - Tulua 129 km by bike - Day 116, Nov. 29 Tulua - Palmira 70 km by bike plus Palmira - Popayan160 km by car - Day 117, Nov. 30 Popoyan - El Tablon 184 km by bike Plan : Day 118, Dec. 1 El Tablon - Ipiales ~ 160 bike and car Day 119, Dec. 2 crossing the border to Equador Sigitas. . PASTO, COLOMBIA. December 1, 1998. Received from Sigitas Kucas, Columbia. At the moment we are in a small mountain village on the way to PASTO. Tomorrow, if no border problems, we will enter ECUADOR. On the border to PERU we will meet Oliver and Manuel currently cycling individually as they have put it - to more enjoy the country. ECUADOR 1 December 13, 1998. Received from Goda, Ecuador. Last two weeks very active and therefore difficult to find internet facilities. I have been wanting to write in Ecuador especially remembering your request about what happens in the group and how we suceed in continuing the trip. Today too many things to tell. I have slept in the afternoon two hours to rest more properly and already had two coffees to inspire myself to write, but anyway I feel lazy. Let me start from the end i.e. the very last and happy moment. After resting in the afternoon I went looking for a caffee, desperate, instant coffee everywhere, no true good taste coffee even in Colombia, sad though. Bought a packet of bisquits to chew on the way when suddenly a car signalled and somebody looked out and said hallo. I said hello too and kept on walking without paying more attention. The same person, woman, asked if I was a cyclist. I said "yes", the car stopped. The woman introduced herself, her husband, and her Peruvian friends. She explained that a few days ago on Thursday her husband and she saw a report about the Peace Ride arriving in Lima. They loved the idea of peace and bicycles, and decided to find us to join our caravan tomorow 13 December. I do not know if they will decide on that but I was very happy and even more surprised about the fact that people saw us on TV and got inspired by the message! We reached these people and others as well. Five representatives of CYCLO VIDA, a bike organisation in Lima promoting cycling in Peru, are going to join the caravan too ! One more lady ! Two times champion of student bicycle competition in Lima. Very nice and sincere people. Good friends. We will be a big group now. HOW DID WE CROSS ECUADOR ? With bikes it would have been easier ! >From Piura (Peru) we came to Lima by coach (9 December). Gunter, Soledad (Peruvian coordinator), and I spent 14 hours on the bus. Gunter, sitting next to me, told what he had seen on the road. As we have agreed the group had decided to meet up on 8 December on the Ecuador -Peru border entering via Macara. Naturally Gunter took the same road as we did, but he went by bus and we by van. He said he was falling asleep. There was not much to see through the window - the countryside boaring - bare mountains without much greenery and life. The bus was flying down the mountain and dashed by a blue tent. Only a few kilometres later Gunter realised what he had seen. He said he could not sleep anymore. He saw a little blue tent, some four bikes, Gediminas and Goda, sitting and looking at the road. Gunter told me he saw my face just for a second, but the expression cut through his mind - HELP US! Obviously we were in trouble. Why otherwise we should stop in the middle of nowhere laying around in the hot midday sun ? ... The distance of some 200-300 km to be covered in one day to be on the border on time !? Lucky we stayed alive - the car brakes broke down while going down highest mountains in Ecuador. Gediminas, who was driving the car, stopped it with the manual brake. It was dark - nine o'clock in the evening. Luckily too we stopped at a lamp post, so he had light. Ahmet suggested to separate the trailer from the van and placed it ten metres behind the car for more safety. Seven in the morning Sigitas and Ahmet drove to the nearest village (10 km away) to repair the car brakes. What can you expect from a village of ten houses ? Luckily in the next village (30 km more) a mechanic helped, but they had to wait for the necessary parts at least two hours. Meanwhile I did all my washing, read a book, walked around taking pictures of blooming cactus and packed the tent. We had no food and no water, all things in the car. I started to worry. I looked on the road all the time not knowing what to do. I couldn't do anything anymore. The car was repaired and we started at three in the afternoon. Goda. SULLANA, PERU. December 15, 1998. Received from Goda , Peru. Crossing Ecuador was very hard. We got stuck two times in the middle of nowhere and had to repair the car using our best intelligence relying on the passer-by help. Our car is breaking all the time, it is not fit for mountains. It eats all our money. It does not matter how much we save by sleeping in churches, eating or not eating sometimes, the car takes everything. Entering Peru from the very moment was different - different lanscape and attitude towards us - Peace Ride and strangers from different countries. On the very border PANAMERICAN television from Lima met us to interview. From this very point we have the police escort and one ambulance. Arriving into Sullana was crazy. I was feeling too exhausted to do anything but sit in the car, I watched instead. Two police cars, two ambulances, one BOMBEROS - firebrigade car - and road police. More cars than peaceriders ! Entering into town even more mad - children and lots of people on both sides of streets - waving or claping hands, all the cars making terrible noise. On the stage in the town centre we were greated by the town mayor. she gave us a special honour diploma. Girls screamed when Oli's name was announced. They threw him t-shirts. Lots of questions and signatures. Next day 9 December before leaving for Piura local paper like EL TIEMPO told the story of the Peace Ride. Goda. LIMA, PERU December 14, 1998. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Peru. Photo 1 and 2 : With the police along the streets of Lima. Photo 3 : Shimano-Neuguen (Hector and his assistant) repaired bikes for us free of charge. A favour we are grateful for. Photo 4 : No need to go to Africa for flamingoes, you can see them here in Puerto Viejo, a land not preserved by the Government, but loved and cared for by local people - Ronaldo (on the background) and his friends. To Lima we arrived 11 Dec. Another crazy day. 14 hours by coach. Gunter, Soledad and I waited for the others to come at 11 a.m. 30 km before the town. We left for the mayor's office in Lima only four in the evening. The two bands, police officers standing to attention ewnt away, could not wait longer. The car broke down again and was brought by a special road car. The gear shifter out of order. A band playing and peaceriders arrive in the car. Looked funny. however despite the long delay the cycliists from CYCLOVIDA, about ten of them, demonstrated immesurable patience and friendship and accompanied us to the Mayor{s Office in Lima. The deputy mayor was witing on the stairs. He greated us and invited upstairs. This was a long and ceremonial thing - greetings, information about the town, very special present, t-shirts, peace banner, signature, and many photos. after we were asked to make a circle for the television. They made a short filmed report - P.R. arriving to Lima and the deputy mayor meeting us. The very evening all Lima saw us on television. Next day two people who saw us on TV joined our caravan. so at ther moment I am proud to say thioos. At the moment the Peace Ride represents the following nations - Colombia and Brasil, Alexandra and Esdras, Peru, Mariella, Ivan, Marsio, Julio, two others I do not know names, Mexico, Turkia, Lithuania, POlonia, Germany. On 11 dec we had a press briefing. Questions and many photos. In the afternoon I repaired my bike at one of the best bike shops in Lima - SHIMANO NEUGEN. The time I spent in this shop I will never forget. I met a man who makes me smile - HECTOR, bike mechanic. On 12 Dec we joined the wonderful cycling activity in Lima - all cycling enthusiasts gather in a square in lima and cycle in the town promoting bikes and healthy life. This was very special for more than 100 people came. Even more joined us on the way. On sunday, the day we left Lima, came about 200 people if not more. That was a sight to see. all in different bikes, coloures and all happy smiling. we went 30 km to an ecological area. From here about 100 said good bye and returned home, while others accompanied us to the sleeping place PUERTO VIEJO. Here we camped wild. Big group of about 20 people like never before. In the morning 5 oclock the local lover of nature showed us a lagoon with flamingos 5 children and mother. Today - 14 Dec - we made 130 km. With the heavy full bags I could not make it. Last 60 km I and two Peruvians hitchhiked a truck. Goda ICA, PERU. December 16, 1998. Received from Goda Ciplyte , Peru. Today I am so tired I can not think straight. We are resting to day in ICA, Peru. All the way we cycled is in the desert. At first sight more frightening than the one in Sonora, Mexico. In fact it is friendly enough to cycle through, if ... if you have enough weater, food or fruits with you. Though the sand, streching as far as the horison, is baking hot, but the landscape is poorer and more interesting for photos - an occasional poor looking cactus or dusty palm trees, some rubbish both sides and the pale sky. A house here means life, water, food and sometimes happiness. Coming to a city like Lima means the same only hundred times more of everything. The city is built in the desert just as all other villages we have passed. Just sand running in your face when the wind blows - dry, dusty, liveless, useless, hopeless, hard, yellow and brown. The contrast - a green field of strawberries or blooming cotton is cut off by the liveless sand. Life stops in the next centimetre. It is beyond my comprehension. Here people create life anywhere they live though incredibly poor - in palm leave woven houses on the blind hard sand. More surprising today we saw oasis - something incredible. This is what people tell in fairy-tales. A lake just in the middle of high and hot sand dunes. The story goes that there were 16 of such lakes in the whole country, but people have used the underground water - feeding these lakes - for agricultural purposes and to support their lives, they simply drank the lakes to put it simple. So that is ICAs surrounding area and the landscape we see at the moment. Tomorrow I guess will be last moments, because we will be entering mountain area in Peru. Who knows, maybe these mountains will be like dunes in the dessert only bigger scale ? I have one more hour to talk to you, because at six we are having a press conference again. Yesterday 15 Dec. we arrived in Ica visiting Pisco too. Again on the road we had police escort. Edvardas sitting at the back with the car door open filmed all the time. we made about 80 km. The Mayor of Pisco received us with honour - in the city hall and Air force band playing national anthem. From what I could understand, Peruvian people and the local authorities really appreciate the message of peace. In 1995 Peru was in conflict with Equador, and the peace agreement is under ratification. Apart from that people are very curious and friendly wanting to show the best of their country. Moreover, I think Peru is one of the few countries to have received our message with open heart and sincerity. At the moment in the Peace Ride group we have 5 Peruvians. Just after we left Lima we had some people who joined our caravan. Beside the four cyclists of CICLOVIDA, cycling school in Lima, recent days we had other people who joined our group and created a good feeling of a caravan, idea we are trying to achieve - two men from the Peru Air force (they stayed with us 2 days) and a 16 year old girl - Maria. She joined us right after we left Lima. She and her mother came 150 km by bus. She is going to cycle the whole route in Peru and so are Esdras and Alexandra (Brasil and Colombia). Press does not let us sleep. Thek keep the public informed and attack us with lots of questions when we arrive. Today LA VOZ DE ICA on the front page (Ciclystas de la paz) and EL COMERCIO briefly informed of the peace ride message. At the moment we represent 8 countries (Mexico, Colombia, Brasil, Peru, Germany, Lithuania, Polonia and Turkia), 15 cycling people in the Peace Ride country. Even Soledad Olazo, who is an organiser but not a cyclist, pedalled with us just the same as the mayor of ICA yesterday. So I must dash now, please pass my best wishes to all my Lithuanian friends and colleagues, for I can not do that. Thank you for staying with us. Goda. NASCA, PERU. December 19, 1998. Received from Pat Radin, USA. Sigitas called today from Lima, Peru. He has discovered how to use the Internet for a telephone line, so it was free! He said there are 16 Peaceriders now and the trip has been going very well. For the past 4 days their van has been in the shop to get the gearbox fixed. Everybody was well and ready for the trip to Chile and then...Africa! They wish all of us a very Merry Christmas. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Peru. We are in NASCA. Yesterday we made 95 km, today 45 only. Despite the short distance everybody without exception was tired. The heat is killing. Upon arrival the four of us - Edvardas, me and two Peruvians had a water-mellon each. It was not too much, for we were too hungry and too thirsty. After Alexandra and Esdras, Maria and the five Peruvian people joined, the group problems seem to diminish. We are doing really fine at the moment - enough publicity, many nations represented, 8, one third of the group are ladies, five in total, people are fiendly and more patient with each other. Tomorrow we will enter mountains four km above the sea level. To go up four kilometres into mountains within the distance of 92 km is too much, too hard. We decided to take a car to help ourselves. Oli and Manuel want to make it by bike. Tomorrow we leave NASCA and after 2.5 hour by car we will be in PAMPAS GALERAS. Hope we will see more greenary, not only wind with sand and bare mountains in the desert without any life at all. Mostly we sleep with the police or sometimes camp wild. Police escorts everyday. However the sad news is that Sigitas, Slavik and Gediminas, who stayed in Lima to repair the car, are missing. They have the route and schedule, but we worry that it is almost one week that they are missing. So much news. Love, Goda PUQUIO, PERU. December 20, 1998. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Peru. Many peaceriders and me too have experienced a nightmare. 19 December arriving to PAMPAS GALERAS (4200 meters above the sea level) from NASCA (only 200 m) made most of us sick. Gunter has been suffering from bad digestion already two days before as if anticipating the mountains, Slavik had a diaria on the way, I got a terrible headacke and a sick stomack on the arrival and the rest felt just bad from the sudden change of climate - big preassure and cold weater, the temperature dropped down from 30 to 5 degrees above zero. But listen! The five of them - Ahmet, Oliver, Manuel, Julio and Gediminas - decided to make the 92 kilometres to the altitude of 4200 m by bike! By the time they arrived I had been too sick and cold to meet them and see how they were. I was in bed feeling dead and hearing everything through the mist. From the loud voices I made out the boys arrived full and sound, only Gediminas and Julio were too tired for the last kilometres, so police sent a car to help them to reach the place without killing themselves. Later I heard the group cooking a cerial and singing by the fire-place. Meanwhile I stayed in bed wanting to be by myself and get a little warmer, but nothing helped - neither two pairs of socks, jeans, two jumpers, a thin rain-coat, sleeping bag I had wrapped myself in or two wool blankets. Medicine was no good either. On 20-th December, my friends birthday, I got up at 5:20 feeling better, but still not able to ride the bike. Now that I sit in an old caffee in PUKIO and all the trouble is away, I can share my thoughts with you. Today the riders made 66 km. Most of the road down the hill at 80 km/h! Area without a soul in sight. Road bending 90 and sometimes 180 degrees. Julio, Peruvian rider, photographer, had an accident. He ran into a car going down the hill. Luckily he has some bruses and bike has to be repaired, no major damages. By the way the Peace Ride has encountered another problem, which we have never thought about. Mari, a Peruvian girl of 16 years old, has decided to join us too. Under the Peruvian laws she is immature (as the age of 18 is required). In the case of an accident the organisers would bare charges. To avoid any misunderstandings Soledad, Peruvian organiser, asked her mother to write a document and authorise by a notary. There was much disagreement about the case, but eventually Mari's mother brought the paper and everything settled down. From NASCA (18 Dec.) we have one more Peruvian rider - Walter, a man of 30 years old. At the moment we are 18. Goda COTAROSA, PERU. December 21, 1998. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Peru. There have been many things happening on the road. On 21 from PUKIO we rented a car for a few reasons - because of the seep hill, bad and stony road, long distance (120 km). We squezed the bikes in our trailer and shared both cars to transport ourselves. As we could not pay for the whole trip we got out at 83rd km, where the road was a little better and descended. Nine of us cycled and other five including me hitch-hiked a truck (for all our things were in the van going behind). Our sleeping place was a village, not more than five houses on both sides of the road ! We found a canteen, a large room to feed the hungry and cold workmen, and had a good substantial meal. It rained all the time and I was getting cold again. I went to the canteen for a hot cup of something. Next minute the van was here - everybody cold and hungry. The rest were missing. Ahmet, who was driving the van, said it snowed hard in the mountains. We emptied the van immediately and sent it back. It rained cats and dogs. When the van returned local workmen surrounded looking with their mouths open. Gunter was blue, shaking and not able to speak. Somebody told me he had ripped off the cap he had on from somebody's head. Later he told me he thought it was the end of his life. He stopped cycling and stood frozen praying for God. Mary both cried and laughed seeing snow first time in her life. Edvardas, thinking rationally, did aerobics. Oli, being a gentleman for giving most of his warm clothes to Mary, bought a huge bottle of rum to make himself warm and forget the trouble. Ivan and Marcio tried to survive with a cup of coffee, while Sigitas was half dead suffering from migrena. Later it turned out we could not stay in this place, because it was private and we had to reach the next village 10 km ahead. This meant cycling in the dark and quite possible van problems. When riders arrived it was fun to see the faces : bright eyes and smile shining through a thick coat of mud. The van showed up much later. Ahmet told they had to wait for a tractor to raise the river bed for our van to cross ! We slept warm and cosy on a wooden floor forgetting problems for a while. Goda ABANCAY, PERU December 23, 1998. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Peru. On 22 december our schedule brought us to Santa Rosa, a village offering the passengers of long distance coaches no more than some bananas and bread. However we broke into groups and came to Abancay, a place with a bank, waching opportinity, good meal and some chance of internet. I was desperate to arrive to Abancay on this day. My money had finished three days ago and I could not borrow money from my friends any more. I too did not know I had some luck untill a car stopped and offered to take me to exactly this place. Later on the road I met Mari, Mariella and Soledad. They were more than happy to join me and enjoy some life comforts in this town. To our surprise the local authorities of Abancay provided us a good hotel gratis ! In the evening Soledad and I arranged a sleeping place for the rest of the group : police comissariat. December 23 was our rest day, warm, about 23 at midday. Chirstmas in the air - music in the town square, and poor people with children gathering for a piece of bread and chocolate, lines at the bank and music playing long in the evening. The director of the Sports Institute arranged us a hotel, lunch and dinner free of charge, and in the morning came to wish a Merry Christmas and say good bye. Goda CURAHUASI, PERU December 25, 1998. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Peru. On december 25, right from Abancay town square, we set off for Curahuasi with the lowest gear climbing 6 hours ! The descend was more difficult. The big stones made the bike jump so hard that I felt I was riding a horse. Three times I made a mistake braking too hard and fell down. However, the day was the most wonderful one I have ever had ! I was very firm and determined to go up (39 km) and down by myself. I was happy and proud of myself to have made it ! The day was the present I enjoyed with all my senses. The views were stunning ! Abancay looking like a tiny village surrounded by monster mountains ; beautiful plants on the way - passion flower, eucalyptus and mint - making the air so fresh and healthy; rocks bleeding with begonias ; even birds singing - inspired. I too remembered the hundred years old woman I had met and thought it was no surprise they are so strong reaching this age... To greet local Peruvians - working or playing - was more than a pleasure ; a joy to feel the hard hands and love to be shared ... For most of us Christmas evening was rather different to what each of us is used to - be at home with the family. But we are the family and we had our Christmas table - Peruvian hot chocolate and a cake. We shared the traditions of Christmas celebration in our countries, sang a Christmas song and took each other by the hand wishing a Merry Christmas. Each of us too spoke in return wishing something good in the next year. Mariella was so excited that she cried. She wished us to accomplish the ride and peace in our hearts, while Sigitas, as the international coordinator, presented Peace Ride t-shirts to the whole Peruvian team. Marcio was as happy as a child and held the t-shirt next to his heart. After chatting for a while the group went to the church to share local traditions. Those who had different beliefs decided to spend the time differently and repaired bikes or wrote the diary. The morning broke and Gunter played a song. Christmas has come and we continue the trip. Goda THANK YOU PERU ! December 25, 1998. Received from Sigitas Kucas, Peru. In June 1998 I asked Mrs Soledad Olazo, the National SERVAS Coordinator and a good friend of mine, to help me organize the Great Millennium Peace Ride in Peru. She kindly agreed to be the GMPR Peru National Coordinator and after a few months of hard work involved many organizations and local authorities to meet the peace riders in the country. What today is happening with the Peace Ride in Peru has overcome my expectations. Starting from the border, where we were welcomed by Soledad and representatives of the Peruvian Institute of Sports, the Peace Ride has been receiving permanent attention of local people and media too. The National Panamericana TV made a report on our arrival to Peru while the people of Sullana went out into the streets to give us a cheer. The reception in the Mayor's office in Lima has attracted journalists and citizens too, who being encouraged by Ciclovida, a bicycle club in Lima, next day joined us in hundreds to promote the bike, peace and friendship. The most important is that our group has increased twice. At the moment we are 18 riders representing 8 countries. To symbolically embrace the globe we are carrying a 40 meters long Peace Banner, which has been signed by local authorities, the Peruvian Sports Institute and people of good will. Cycling in Peru we enjoy beautiful landscapes and meet cordial people. The excellent route, visiting ecological and archeological sites, takes us through the deserts, mountains, valleys, villages and cities. We are happy to be here with the people of this wonderful country. Thank you Soledad, thank you Peru ! Sigitas Kucas GMPR International Coordinator Organizations supporting Peaceride In Peru : SERVAS Peru Peruvian Institute of Sports National Institute of Culture Ministry of Foreign Affairs-Bureau of Consular Affairs Ministry of Agriculture-CONACS CTAR-Sullana CTAR-Piura CTAR-Ica CTAR-Pisco CTAR-Abancay National Police of Peru Maria Reiche Association Unesco-Lima Ciclovida Ecomontana. GREETINGS December 1998 > January 1999. Received from the Peaceride participants, Peru. Dear friends, After the sizzling summer heat and the beat of the warm Pacific waves, today we first encountered a real winter. Hard snow and body freezing cold cought us pedaling high in the Andes. Each of us met the challenge in a different way : Gunter prayed asking for the Lord's mercy, Mary both laughed and cried seeing the snow first time in her life, Oliver had a glass of rum to make himself warm and forget the trouble, Edvardas remembering aerobics practiced some strange exercises, Ivan and Marsio were happy to have a cup of coffee, others tried to hike a car, Sigitas was sick with migraine. But when we met in the late afternoon, we were so happy to be full and sound, happy to be together again and give each other a friendly hug ! Local Peruvians gave us a warm shelter. Having changed clothes and enjoying warm sleeping bags we forgot the troubles for a moment. Christmas and New Year is already at the door, therefore recalling 1998, the year we started the Peace Ride, something many of us dream about, we wish to thank you for your support, energy and attention. On our part we wish you perseverance, success, creative ideas and much happiness in the coming 1999 ! Ahmet, Oliver, Gunter, Manuel, Slavomir, Goda, Edvardas, Gediminas, Sigitas, Mariella, Marsio, Ivan, Mari, Julio, Soledad, Alexandra, Esdras, Valter Participants of the Great Millenium Peace Ride. CUSCO, PERU December 26, 1998. Received from Goda Ciplyce, Peru. On 25 Dec. we arrived to Cusco. Going down the steep hill into the town I stopped for a photo - the town, surrounded by mountains, was falling into dusk. I tried to catch up with the group, but unsucessfully. I braked too hard in front of the water collection ditch and flew over it. Police picked me up and took to the emergency. The doctor was pleased to know that I am from Lithuania. He desinfected my wounded arms and checked if I was OK. Local authorities were supposed to meet us in plaza, but there was nobody, and we cycled around the town and went to our sleeping place - Coliseo, a covered stadium for basket-ball and volley-ball. In Cusco ( 26 December) we had a rest day. Some of us went to visit the ancient inca gardens (Moray), the salt collection site (Urabamba valley) and a very special hacienda-museum, in which an old couple have collected collonial pots, pictures and religious items. Goda MACHUPICHU, PERU December 27, 1998. Received from Goda Ciplyce, Peru. On 27 December the whole Peace Ride visited the National Park of Machu Pichu, the ancient inca village. This way was just as enjoyable as expensive - 10 USD for entrance and five hours by train (one way). In the evening we had a nice cosy gathering in a cafe in Plaza de Armas. We shared our impressions. 28 December was sunny and warm - 25 degrees centigrade. At eight o'clock the group went to Puno (450 km) by train. We were lucky. ENEFER, a train company, sponsored the tickets. Spending 12 hours on the train was a long time, but still enjoyable for the very beutiful snow mountains. At eight in the evening a band met us with music and dances Puno. Goda TITIKAKA, PERU December 29, 1998. Received from Goda Ciplyce, Peru. 29 December was a surprise. We saw the UROS floating islands - a wonder - people living on a big reed island raft! We also had an opportunity to relax and enjoy a quiet ride by a reed boat around one of the islands in lago TITIKAKA ! The world's highest navigable lake at the altitude of 3820 m, 170 km in lenght! When the sun was highest and hottest we set off for Juli, a small village 83 km away from Puno on the coast of the lago TITIKAKA, in some places dirty, in others clear and blue, water temperature 9 degrees. Today in the evening sleet showered. Weather very changeable - the temperature from 25 at day time drops to 12 degrees at night. Tomorrow starting at eight we head for Mazo Cruz, 83 km. We want to meet new year in TARATA. Goda MAZO CRUZ, PERU December 31, 1998. Received from Goda Ciplyce, Peru. Today 30 December more people joined us : Omar (Peruvian), his Dutch wife and Oscar (Peruvian too). The green area with trees and plants has finished, desert area again - lamas, sheep and shallow mountain river. Most of riders feel bad or have stomack problems, for we do not cook any food. Each day the same probelms - no water in the toilet and no shower, no drinking water either. Only "gaseosas" (lemonade) in a shop or some boiled water in a caffee. Problems to wash clothes or even teeth. Since Lima we had publicity in Ica and Tacna. The couple - Brasilian man and Colombian woman - have left us for a moment. Their visa expired, so they decided to celebrate new year in Bolivia, which can be seen from here right on the other side of the Titikaka - beautiful snow mountains. We too would like to have a nice New Year celebration, but we have too different ideas and nobody knows what will happen in the end. Goda DECEMBER 98 ROUTES December 21, 1998. Received from Sigitas Kucas, Peru. Equador : 116 day, Nov. 29 Tulua - Palmira 70 km by bike plus Palmira - Popayan160 km by car 117 day, Nov. 30 Popoyan - El Tablon 184 km by bike 118 day, Dec. 1 El Tablon - Pasto 65 km by bike 119 day, Dec. 2 Pasto - Ipiales by car, crossing the border to Equador (Ibarra) 120 day, Dec 3, Ibarra - Quito by car 121 day, Dec 4, Quito - Banos by car 122 day, Dec 5, Banos - ? mountains by car 123 day, Dec. 6, ? mountains - Azogues by car 124 day, Dec. 7, Azogues - Macara by car Peru : 125 day, Dec 8, Macara - Sullana 84 km by bike + 46 km by car 126 day, Dec 9, Sullana - Piura 42 km by bike 127 day , Dec 9/10 Piura - Puente Piedra 980 km by car, Puente Piedra.- Lima - Miraflores 43 km by bike 128 day, Dec 11 press conference, rest day 129 day, Dec 12, Saturday, biking around Lima 32 km, 100 - 150 bicyclists 130 day, Dec 13, Miraflores - Puerto Viejo, 72 km by bike, ~200 bicyclists 131 day, Dec 14, Puerto Viejo - Chincha 127 km by bike 132 day, Dec 15, Chincha - Ica 104 km by bike 133 day, Dec 16, Ica 134 day, Dec 17, Ica - Palpa 94 km by bike 135 day, Dec 18, Palpa - Nazca 42 km by bike 136 day, Dec 19, Nazca - Pampas Galeras 92 km by bike 137 day, Dec 20, Pampas Galeras - Puquio 72 km by bike 138 day, Dec 21, Puquio - CotaRosa 44 km by bike + 100 km by car 139 day, Dec 22, CotaRosa - Abancay 102 km by bike + 45km by car 140 day, Dec 23, rest day 141 day, Dec 24, Abancay - Curahuasi, 82 km by bike 142 day, Dec 25, Curahuasi - Cuzco, 122 km by bike, AVS 16 km/h, t 7h 36 min, max 55.3 km/h 143 day, Dec 26, Tour de Ecomontana a Moray - Salineras de Masas, 42 km by bike, AVS 13.6 km/h, t 3h.00, Max 55.5 km/h 144 day, Dec 27, visit to Macchu Picchu. Sigitas TACNA, PERU January 1st, 1999. Received from Goda Ciplyce, Peru. Beautiful, wonderful January 1st ! Sunny and warm (25). Everybody got up late - at eight. The New Year party in Tarata lasted until dawn. Before gathering for the New Year celebration in the closest caffee, I tried hard to find a place to wash myself first. I did succeed, however after self-shower I was so cold, that neither 50 gr of rum, nor "cafe con leche" (coffee with milk) helped. However, me and some others made this sacrifice and in the evening on 31 December we gathered to have a decent meal and nice time together ! Despite the long celebration everybody was cheerful enough to make 90 km on the most hard stony mountain road. I made attempts too to cycle, but I did not go far. After some kilometres I saw Mari falling down. I could not go on with the same spirit I had started. The vision of me falling down in Cusco paralysed me. I braked all the time and could hardly turn around the corner. The next minute I cried, I felt helpless. The van picked me up. Later on, Edvardas and I got on the bikes 20 km before the town, because this was where the asphalt road started. There was nothing else in sight than the sand dunes and the white litter. However, it is in this town of desert that I had my first cup of real coffee in Peru - bean coffee. It is too a beautiful town close to the border with Chile, which we will be entering on 3 January. The disadvantage of being a peace rider is coming and leaving - leaving the people I start to know and love. It is a pitty the Peruvian team I got to like so much have to leave. How do they feel about it ? The route in mountains was very hard, particularly the last days. There have been many fall-downs, once or twice each. Even the policemen, who have helped, said - "Next time when you come to Peru choose another road, because we are not going to help you, it is too hard even for us". They have demonstrated great patience and understanding. They pushed the van up the deserted sandy hill in Levini (4620 m asl), searched for the four lost bikers and showed the way and also helped Mariela to find her purse she had lost going down a dangerous mountain road. They also contacted Tacna local authorities and gave us best accomodation - beds, showers and drinking water. Instead of one day we decided to rest two days in Tacna. Tomorrow, january 4, we continue into Chile ! Goda IQUIQUE, CHILE. January 8, 1999. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Chile. Two dollars for communicating half and hour. Expensive. Some words about Chile. We stayed in Tacna one more day to finish with computer things and crossed the border on 5 January. It was not particularly easy (at least for me)- distance of some 50 km all time against the wind IN THE OPEN DESERT. Nothing nohing more. The border itself simple, but annoying procedure for we had to take out all the luggage and put for checking - not possible to have any friut or meat or anything even if it is my poor biker´s lunch. ARICA was just at the hand´s reach afterwards. Nice, rich, beautiful town. We found a sleeping place with bomberos. One more rest day here. However, next day problems and it is still not clear what. The day we left Arica 6 January Sigitas, Soledad, Oliver and Slavik, who travelled with car are still not here. In the evening of the same day we agreed to meet in CUYA, four kiosks in the plane desert, not more, no water, nothing. we waited until late at night. We had no things for the night or more food we had bought for crossing the desert. Well, we asked the police to help us. They gave us a shelter. I slept on a coach, Edvardas on a table, walter and Oscar on a ping-pong table, Ahmet and Manuel in the cabin of a truck. Next day we waited more - until lunch time. Then hitch-hiked two trucks, which brought us to IQUIQUE. That is where we are staying now - with bomberos. It is better here - at least a big town, possible to take money, buy food cheaper. Most important there is water too! I think the car makes the whole trouble. It does not matter how much we save, how little I eat or that I do not make photoes any more, the car takes the big bite! Have to finish, hope to give you more happy news next time. Goda ANTOFAGOSTA, CHILE. January 14, 1999. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Chile. I can not express how happy I am to sit quietly for a moment writing and listening to music. The last days for me have been most wonderful. Wonderful to wake up and still being warm from the bed get on the bike and cycle through the empty streets. It is wonderful I can greet the sun looking down upon the ocean thirstilly asking "water-water-water". It is wonderfull to have a cup of coffee undisturbed, it is wonderful to go up the hill not being rushed by anyone, it is great to fly with the wind and listen to the whisper of the braking waves. It is strange to see bare sands and not a living soul around, but it is also amazing to be able to cross it inch by inch on my bike. It is surprising that a woman gives a plate of soup and vegetables for free! In the middle of these sands and bare stones. It is encouraging when a car pulls up and the driver stretches out a cola without even being asked ! And another one stops to help to go up the hill! Is it not a wonder! A wonder anyone can make! A present to make someone happy ! I am happy! Down to life news, no poetry. Since we left Iquique (10 Jan) we have made 500 km by bike sleeping on the beach and counting stars in the night. However, not everything is poetry. Today in Antofagasta I read my e-mails. Sigitas still in Iquique. The van broke down once again. The axle was bad. He, Soledad, Slavik hope to come to bomberos in Antofagasta tonight. By accident I met a reporter, we may haver some publicity. From Tocopilla we have two more cyclists - a boy of 18 and 21, both Chilenas. Gunter, an open end-rider as he describes himself, has gone to Santiago to take a plane back to Germany. Oli got totally discouraged and bored with the desert and cycling that he hitch-hiked to Antofagasta a day in advance. Tomorrow evening we would like to go to SANTIAGO (1400 km) by bus, but I am not sure what happens and if we will make it. These four days for me were very different. I feel like I am standing on my feet - no car, no rush, freedom. Next time hope to write more about the group. Goda IN THE DESERT, 500k.m. north from Santiago, CHILE. January 17, 1999. Received from Oliver Stephan, Chile. Good timing, we are in the desert, I feel like it, dry and not really alive. All what I want is to rest. I am tired - my soul more than my body. But I am happy, because I know the reasons for both problems. As a teenager I made races on my bike (luckily), and I still profit from it. At this time I trained a lot, and since then I know how hard I can be to myself when I ride my bike. Since from the beginning I tried to ride my bike much and as often as posible just because I love it, there was so much to do everyday - study Spanish, meet wonderful people or just think and making new philosophies. The best ideas always come after some hours of pure silence. When Manuell and I went alone, we made some hard climbings in Ecuador and Columbia. In Peru I was just so happy that Goda had to remind me two days ago that we have also cycled in Peru through a desert. Really ? I didn't recognise something hard or bad in Peru. The new participants (Ivan, Macio, Mariella, Soledad, Walter, Oskar, Omar and especially Mary) have given me so much power that I just flew over the Ands and Peru in general. "Gracias amigos para tu fuerza". But now the most of our new friends have left us and we are "alone" again. Now you know one reason why I'm tired - I just biked too much. The other one is that I'm tired to make always friends just for one day and the next morning tell them goodbye. In every city where we stopped for a night I have friends. I've been dancing, laughing and crying with them. Only it is a pitty it was always just for one night. But this is the Great Millenium Peace ride. We have a plan. Especially Sigitas (our President) follows this plan incredibly hard. We have been travelling now nearly for half a year together, I love and respect every participant, I learnt something from everyone and made a really big step towards MY AIM - TO BE TOLERANT. But I think I will leave the group when they go to Africa. This travel is just too quick, because of that we make too much transportation, and for me not enough by bike. Until now nothing is sure. I've two weeks more to decide, so we will see. Now something different. I want to thank the whole Central-South-America. You gave us a lot of hope for the next millenium. We didn't met a single RACIST, you never gave us the feeling that we are not welcome. No, the opposite ! You all are friendly and helpful.You know I am German, "my"country has had such a bad history, we have now a good education and every everybody especially Germans should slowly know that humans are all the same everywhere - doesn't matter from which part of the world. Because we live ALL on the same. I am ashamed for everyone who thinks that his/her country is better than the others. PEACE FOR ALL PAZ PARA TODOS FRIEDEN FUR ALLE POKOJ DLA WSZYSTKICH TAIKA VISIEMS Best wishes from Don Oliver Stephan stephan@hotmail.com Oli. SANTIAGO, CHILE. January 20, 1999. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Chile. Chile. Santiago. Stadium - the biggest one. History - learnt by heart and blood. "Colocol" changing room. Scheme of football field. Mess around. Table, computer, bread on the left, "cerveza" (beer) on the right. Silence. Hello, I have come to talk to you again. Before I sit down I never know what I am going to write, but when I see the blue computer screen words start coming. Only sometimes, mostly when I cycle, I have ready texts - that happens when I really have something to say - when something happens or strong feeling takes over. Last days I have been angry and have kept it inside of me. We arrived to the capital. Three days and two nights on the road. Good and bad. Which one first? The three days in the van no good - too much eating, sleeping and pain in legs. Van leaking and trailer wheels breaking. Oliver grumbling and teaching everybody around. Sigitas driving like mad in the night, but no more. The five days we cycled in the desert (Iquique -Antofagasta, 430 km) stood out like the most wonderful days in the ride - time of appreciating simple things - tranquility, sunset, ocean, beach, stars, warm sleeping bag, hot sun in the morning, my bike "buldozer", good asphalt road, sand in my shoes, water, wind, pedalling, hill, sweat, heartbeat, a car lift, rest, food and water for free, smile, a cola given by a passing driver, watermelon eaten with a spoon, heavy legs, stuffy room, mouthfull of peaches in January, friend cycling in front, curves, crabs in water, breaking waves, taking pictures. Sitting in the car gives me a feeling I do not deserve the food I can not stop eating. There is too much of everything - cars, food, people. Santiago is no desert, but it is more empty than the sands we passed. Goda. LOS ANDES, CHILE. January 21, 1999. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Chile. We have just arrived to Los Andes - 273 km to Mendoza, which is already a good distance in Argentina, another most expensive country after the USA. It is possible that tomorrow we will be crossing the border. The road is all way up the hill. We are no group any more. In Antofagasta I screamed on Sigitas. Later I realised I did not feel safe for I did not know how to make the distance of 1400 km to Santiago. The van has become Sigitas property. Eventually I decided to hitch-hike together with Manuel, Oscar and Walter. It got too late in the morning. The boys waited for this and that, and did not seem to be ready to leave. I could not wait any more, my patience out. I left. The first car I hitched was ... our van. We are a bunch of individuals cycling together. For me as a woman sometimes it is more difficult. I can not explain anything more, but it is very different - without home, without mama! The future is unclear at all. How to get to Africa ? What is the cheapest way ? Where to get the money ? How many people can afford it? Who wants to go ? Is there anything still surprising to see after six months of travelling ? What do we and I want to make in the end ? Goda. MENDOZA, ARGENTINA January 27, 1999. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Argentina. WE ARE LUCKY ! Lucky to continue! First accident! It was hot. Me hungry. Talking to Ahmet and Slavo. Sigitas, Soledad and Edvardas busy. An hour later police came. They said there was an accident. Sigitas and Soledad to see what happened. I hoped it was somebody else. The next minute a police-woman came. She spoke Argentinian Spanish. From the walky-talky she had I only grasped some words - "Walter", "argentino", "hospital". That was enough to understand the situation. On the way to the place of the accident Sigitas told me Walter and Argentinian in particular had serious brooses and were taken to hospital. Police had blocked one lane and the road overcrowded. Three bikes lying off the road. Twenty meters one after another - Oscar's, Mariano's (Argentinian's) and Walter's. Mariano's bike totally broken - frame in the back, both wheels, saddle and the front. Walter's bike damaged too - the back wheel bended and things scattered around. Oscar all right. He cycled the last and saw the accident. It was Sunday, late afternoon (7 or 8 in the evening). One after another, the boys were cycling to Mendoza. Oscar, being the last, was suddenly hit on the sleeping bag in the back, then Mariano second on the front of the car and Walter pushed a long way under it. All accidents are silly, this one too. The driver fell asleep when driving and hit the boys. Surely he wants to defend and lies: the left side of the road was overcrowded and he had no choice, but run over the boys! The wounds are healing, but it will take time - to bare the pain day and night, to deal with the legal procedures and recover the courage to cycle again! Something More to Add I remember myself sitting at my table in the office looking at the route - deserts and mountains. (It used to be my favourite occupation after checking e-mails of course). I had a colleague. A knowledgable man. He used to ask me - Godulis, how are you going to cross this desert and these mountains ? Surely I could not answer seriously for I knew not more that I wanted to be there. Today I can tell you the desert, Atacama, we crossed by van sleeping on the beach and eating sea food apart from stepping out on the sands to feel the breath of the earth. And the mountains?... look at the map! The same brown spot you will see if you search for Santiago - Mendoza. One huge mountain and lots of patience.... 32 "curvas peligrosas" (dangerous bends)! From Chile to Argentina. Metre by metre I crossed by bike... taking my tent and four heavy panniers... If not WALTER, who supported me all the way through, I would not have thought making it all. Next day (23 Jan) I could not speak or laugh. Too tired to climb too kilometres to see the highest peak in the Americas - the ACONCAGUA (6962 m). Many mountain climbers. Here they new heard something about Lithuania, but when I asked to see the registration book the man showed me someone from Letland (Latvia), no difference, is it ? I get sick of this question - "Where are you from?" If I say from Lithuania, they stare at me and pretend to know where it is. If I am very friendly I help the people. I say I am from Africa. Sure they laugh, me too! This time crossing the border was quicker and easier. Not like in Chile we had to take all our heavy stuff out of the van for cheking and put back. The officer was anyway mad that somebody of us took fruit (an apple or two to kill momentary hunger). Anyway after Peru Chile was "a disaster" as we say here. Too much control. Once at the supermarket they had some trouble with our liberty of choice. The boys went shopping. Full bags of good food, they sat down by the shop to have a real man's bite before getting into desert. They could not finish, because Chile police showed up (two men) and told to get out of the place. Well, in Santiago if you walk doing nothing you are sure to "notice" security on each corner of the block. World news report on Pinochet trial in London, but it feel slike he is still out there - in the streets of Chile! Back to Argentina. 25 January was more beautiful than I could expect. Upsallata, a poet's desire and painter's dream! Clear blue sky, glass snow mountains and rows of lavish green trees!.. and biker's paradise - all the way down to Mendoza! Just like the greetings somebody sent for Christmas! Mountains behind and so are the deserts! Africa! How to reach you over the ocean ? Goda ACCIDENT IN MENDOZA January, 1999 Received from Walter, Argentina . (What follows is the beginning of the translation of some notes taken by Walter in South America (see the whole text in spanish here and have a look at the Africa section to get the following part, spanish too). Translated from spanish to english by Janet Ramon, Walter's sister. Accident in Mendoza On January 24, 1999, Mariano García welcomes us on the highway in the name of Mendoza. He rides with us on the route and into the most serious accident of all the GMPR up to now. Less than 3 km away from joining the rest of the group a driver falls asleep and runs at us from behind. Oscar is given a shove on his backpack and Mariano and I are hit and dragged by a force that after a few meters turns out to be a vehicle that my eyes do not see. They do see the pavement though, the asphalt of the highway scraping the right side of my body and threatening to suck me towards the death that waits for me under a car that seems unwilling to stop. I hear Mariano screaming, and I scream too (or am I thinking it so strongly it becomes a scream): why doesn't he stop? STOP! 30 meters ahead the driver remembers the brake and I have the chance to escape by rolling diagonally. I can feel my legs, my arms and all my fingers, and I get up to see the cause of the pain that explodes suddenly in the middle of this beautiful day, to note the registration number of the car and to avoid a hit-and-run. I can see Oscar running towards me, and I tell him to write down the plate number, to gather all the equipment scattered about, and I fall down to wait for assistance. I remember my feelings, my soul soak in grief, yet God doesn't abandon me, and I am not full of anger and curses but deep sadness. Weak, still, troubled by this sudden condition to which an imponderable act has thrown me. What is its relationship between this beautiful day ? I try to understand, and my eyes get full of tears as faces and gestures of anonymous friends comfort me. I get to know Mendoza from the General Hospital where the ambulance drives me, the center of human pain, neither heaven nor hell... Walter. LABOULAYE, ARGENTINA January 28, 1999. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Argentina Don´t cry for me, Argentina! ... sing to myself in the rain. Yesterday 120 km, today 100 km, tomorrow the same. Buenos Aires in two days. My legs as hard as those of a racing horse. Nothing seems to be impossible. Looking forward to Africa ! PS. TODAY IS EXACTLY HALF YEAR THAT I AM WAY FROM MY HOME AND FRIENDS. TO FINISH CYCLING IN NORTH AND SOUTH AMERICAS AND FEEL STRONG AND HEALTHY IS A BIG ACHIEVEMENT! I AM HAPPY TO HAVE MADE IT! WHAT WILL BE THE NEXT TWO HALFS (of the year) LIKE? Goda ROSARIO, ARGENTINA January 30, 1999. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Argentina On The road Vicuna Mackena - Rosario Because of the accident in Mendoza we had split in two groups: 1. Goda, Ahmet, Slawek, Oli and Manuel continue the route by bikes to Buenos Aires, Gediminas is travelling separately from the group. 2. Soledad, Walter, Oskar, Edvardas and me had stay in Mendoza for a few days. We left from Mendoza Jan 28 and spent the night close to Mercedes. Jan 29 at Vicuna Mackena the automatic box of gears of our "Challenger" completely resigned to function. The highway service took us from the road to the nearest mechanic who couldn't provide any help. 600 km to Buenos Aires... 600 USA dollars to transport our van... We have decided to hitchhike together with a van and a trailer. Jan 30, Saturday afternoon, a driver of truck with a very long trailer full of armature agreed to take us to Rosario, 320 km from Buenos Aires, where we can find a master of automatic boxes. We are going now like in the train, Soledad is boiling water for "mate " in the truck driver's cabin, Oscar changed with me in driving the van, Walter singing silently behind, Edvardas preparing new reports for Lithuanian TV, I am writing this message. Very flat landscape around, beautiful sunset and a full moon at night. 21h40min, +27C. A few hours before it was +32C. Goda ARGENTINA January, 1999 Received from Walter, Argentina - Spanish. (What follows is the beginning of notes taken by Walter in South America (see the Africa section to get the following part). SOY UN ACCIDENTE Mariano Garcia nos recibe, el dia 24 de enero, en la carretera en nombre de Mendoza; nos acompana en la ruta y en el accidente mas grave de toda la ruta del GMPR hasta hoy. Oscar y yo hemos salido muy tarde hacia esta ciudad, yo con problemas con mi equipaje aun tengo que parar algunas veces a componer algo, en una de estas Mariano se detiene y ofrece ayudarnos, nosotros agradecemos, pero le decimos que no es necesario; el vuelve a insistir ofreciendo herramientas que nosotros ya tenemos; y el insiste nuevamente ofreciendo agua que tenemos tambien; finalmente nos espera y ofrece acompanarnos en la ruta hacia su ciudad y aceptamos agradecidos. A poco menos de 3 km de encontrarnos con el resto del grupo un conductor que se queda dormido nos embiste por detras. Oscar recibe un empujon en su equipaje y Mariano y yo somos golpeados y arrastrados por una fuerza que luego de algunos metros resulta siendo un vehiculo que mis ojos no ven y si el pavimento, el asfalto de la autopista que va raspando el costado derecho de mi cuerpo y que amenaza tragarme hacia la muerte que me espera debajo de un automovil que parece no tener la voluntad de detenerse. Yo escucho los gritos de Mariano y tambien grito (o lo pienso tan fuerte que es un grito): !?Por que no frena?! !FRENA!, 30 metros mas adelante el conductor recuerda el freno y tengo la opotunidad de rodar diagonalmente liberado; siento mis piernas, mis brazos, todos mis dedos y me levanto para ver la causa de todo el dolor que irrumpe de pronto en el centro de ese dia hermoso, apuntar la matricula del auto y evitar una fuga; veo a Oscar corriendo hacia mi y le digo que anote la placa, que junte las cosas, el equipaje desparramado y me derrumbo delante a esperar auxilio. Recuerdo mi actitud, la pena me embarga pero Dios no me abandona y no estoy lleno de furia y maldiciones sino de tristeza, indefenso, inmovil, turbado por esta repentina condicion en la que me ha colocado un acto imponderable. Que correspondencia tiene todo esto con este dia hermoso?, trato de comprender y me lleno de lagrimas mientras rostros y gestos de hermanitos anonimos me confortan. Conozco Mendoza a partir del Hospital Central hasta donde llego en ambulancia; el centro del dolor humano, que no es cielo ni infierno. CONOCIENDO ARGENTINA MENDOZA En Mendoza la familia de Mariano nos acoge en una cena familiar que es calor de hogar para nosotros viajeros. Daniel, padre de Mariano, Ana Maria, companera de Daniel, y dos de las hermanas de Mariano nos han preparado una cena especial en la que pruebo por primera vez un famoso queso y tambien otro maloliente que sabe riquisimo. Todos escuchamos historias; la antigua cancion "El sapo", que cantan Daniel y Ana Maria; vino, cerveza negra, un delicioso postre de muss de chocolate, Mercedes Sosa, al mejor bandoneon argentino, Silvio Rodriguez y nuestras historias de accidentes que intercambiamos para levantarnos de los pozos donde nos tendemos. Yo le insisto a Mariano en la invitacion a acompanarnos en la ruta, temo fastidiarlo, pero lo veo hermanito en el dolor y pretendo ayudarlo; Oscar comprende, comparte mucho de lo que siento y el tambien lo invita, pero quien puede salvarlo?, quien puede curarlo de sus heridas? que no son esas rodillas raspadas y esa pierna inflamada por la infeccion. Somos un tren que va pasando y el, quizas, lleno de temor no se decide. ROSARIO Despertamos rodeados de camiones y humedad. Rosario es un taller mecanico desde donde conocemos Argentina. Jorge "Chocolate" Sullivan, el mejor "maestro" de este pais, nos muestra su ciudad en un city-tour apresurado que le gana a esa manana de busqueda de autopartes para nuestra "Challeger", que herida nos detiene en el camino. Este dia es el mas frio del verano rosarino de los ultimos 30 anos y yo con toda mi ropa mojada necesito de mi bolsa de dormir para arroparme y protegerme del frio; esta tarde descarga la furia de un diluvio desde el cielo. Aqui hemos aprendido a "sebar la pava"; hemos tenido un festin con un asado a la parrilla que cocino Claudio (el ayudante de "Chocolate"), casi 7 kg de carne para 8 personas, vino, ensalada y la sobremesa de dialogos cargados de mate y pan (para los hambrientos peruanos). Carlos, el viejito, nos cuenta historias de "crotos" que un poco somos nosotros, durmiendo en cualquier lugar, comiendo al borde de los caminos, inevitablemente sucios, vagabundos. Hoy me despierto y me despido de che Carlitos por la manana, suerte, la joda del mate, de la entrega del "marron" para conseguir el negro (en las artes marciales) y el agradecimiento por todo, por habernos hecho conocer Argentina a traves de ellos. Tiene 66 anos y la garganta le cierra la voz apretada por los anos de tabaco. Feo con exito con las mujeres porque bailaba bien y sabia "chamuyarles bonito". Croto a veces, aunque se "pique" cuando se lo recuerde. Ramblas y veloces navajas, que aun carga en sus lentos bolsillos. Los nietos que no lo quieren sino que lo adoran; su bicicleta blanca que hace los 7 km diarios de su rutina, la cocina economica llena de variedad e ingenio para "parar la olla". Cuantos anos mas Carlitos? nuestros besos de despedida son para siempre negro, cuidate mucho. (Miro hacia adelante, mis heridas van cerrandose y voy reparando mis cosas, aun estoy "rengo", repartido por dolores a lo largo de mi cuerpo que cubro con gasas, y tengo una herida en la cadera que ojala no se infecte). BUENOS AIRES 1 Estamos desde ayer en la ciudad de Lula, enorme y cara, ciudad. Como encontrarte ahora amor? Cuando toda esta selva de gente cemento nos separa. Donde tu amor dispuesto, para la busqueda desesperada, con la que te aguardo desde Machupicchu? Tanto se de perdidas y de amores desencontrados. Una rutina resigna el dolor, que solo es aceptar el mundo, mas alla de cualquier posibilidad de control personal. Como parar el mundo? Un diluvio detiene a Mercedes Sosa que hoy canta en Buenos Aires. 6/2/99 2 Ayer Katherine (what was your name?) se me acerco. En la Plaza San Telmo (Ask about the group) se despliega una flor inglesita hacia ti. Entonces me hundia en lo profundo de sus ojos azules, su rostro fresquisimo cantandome mientras yo escuchaba ese regalo de Dios, intenso cuanto la necesito. Para la amabilidad estoy preparado, pero no para recibirla, e intercambiamos buenos deseos, sonrisas mutuas, que no bastan cuando nos separamos. Siento que soy un idiota, no le pregunte su direccion ni le di la mia, y me flajelo en palabras altas que voy soltando huerfanas contra mi. No podia desengancharme de sus ojos mientras caminaba alejandome. Ella fue tras de el llamandolo para conversar. Que mas podia hacer?. Me voy dentro de dos dias que no son suficientes contra el miedo, lo natural me resulta extrano en la camisa de fuerza donde moro. Como volar frente a ella? Como estar listo para soportar su belleza sin desarmarme de pronto? Mal cazador rumbo a Africa, pierdo el control y este regalo hermoso en estos ultimos dias de continente americano. 3 Me han dicho varias veces que los peruanos somos personas respetuosas, esto para mi es novedad y como toda virtud, real o imaginaria, personalmente me es dificil de aceptar. Al embajador peruano en Buenos Aires le enfurece que yo sea un loquito ladrando mi peruanidad hacia el cielo porteno y me confronta, al reaccionar, lentamente, me voy apagando hasta la disculpa obligada que esa mentira con la que me calma no merece. 4 El centro lituano de villa Lugano fue la casa en la que fundamos nuestra aldea de carpas, rutina de vecindario en las mananas y muy buenos dias; desde aqui hacemos diariamente 40 Km hacia el otro centro en el que buscamos ordenarnos entre la tension de las ultimas reuniones, visas, llamadas, papeles, comida y reserva para el salto. Fueron 15 dias exactos sin montar una bicicleta desde mi accidente, y ahora al pedalear, recobro un poco el poder, las coyunturas no me duelen como cuando camino y no se puede cojear sobre la bici que Sigitas me presta por primera vez. 5 Che, yo estuve en Liniers! Buscando un aro nuevo y repuestos, vi la estacion del tren, el pan a un peso el kilo, la colchoneta aislante, las impresionantes mujeres de esta abundante y hermosa ciudad llena de parques, yo me derrumbo entre tus formas y el deseo de tus hijas. Aqui he visto a la modernidad del consumo sucumbir entre una villa miserable, que se alimenta de un botadero de automoviles, y los rascacielos cortando el horizonte, que te aplastan en tu butaca en Brazil. Saturado por tanta belleza solo parece mas dificil ver con claridad, pues lo esencial lo sabes ausente. 6 No me canso de esta ciudad en la que me contemplo. Parti hacia el sur en mi pais, llegue a Chile como a un sueno en inicial conmocion; me aleje mas hacia el este para entrar a Argentina y seguirme viendo mientras me voy marchando. Yo sabia que era hacia el sur la salida, ahora tengo mi boleto a Accra, una visa de 36 dolares para 90 dias, mi bicicleta en el taller. Pequenos hombres de bronce, a mis espaldas, perpetuan una batalla al otro lado de la cordillera. La permanente presencia de Jose de San Martin en este pais me conmueve en mi pequenez; yo no he olvidado la entrega, pero necesito siempre la frescura de canales y formas que revuelvan lo esencial para no perderlo, para reavivar el fuego. Africa nos espera con su cuota propia de amor y dolor, que se reparte en el mundo; es tiempo aun de llorar al telefono con mi familia y de extranar lo mio tan fuerte. Hoy casi no tengo temor y estoy contento por mi buena fortuna, porque a pesar de todo estaba preparado, tambien lleno de amor, listo para curarme. Miro a Santa Fe desde San Martin y ya es hora de regresar a mi casa en villa Lugano. CIUDADES AL VUELO Rio de Janeiro, llegamos a tiempo para el carnaval, que veremos aqui por television antes de Zurich. Bad moon rising, House of the rising sun, un colchon de nieve cubre esta ciudad que por peruano me retiene en su aeropuerto. Luces, pazadizos, tiendas llenas de objetos que mi corazon no tendra. En Ezeiza le robaron a Edvardas su video camara, sus gritos rompen esa manana en la que su vida se acaba porque a perdido sus ojos. Ya hemos tomado nuestro te en el Sahara a mas de diez mil metros de altura. Rumbo a Lagos es el desierto la ruta de este avion que entra al continente africano entre Algeria y Tunicia. LA SELVA Aqui el calor te abraza a diario como la calidez de la gente, quieren saber de ti, conversar; muchos (demasiados) estan interesados en tu direccion, en la ayuda para emigrar y te exigen demasiada atencion; el pasar por las calles y carreteras africanas es un interminable despliege de saludos, cortesias y hasta de dialogos apurados que vas teniendo en la ruta mientras avanzas, al detenerte son sobre todo los ninos los que te rodean llenos de curiosidad, a veces asombrados, observandonos, alrededor de nuestros campamentos desde las 6 de la manana para ver nuestra rutina. La carretera es el espectaculo de penetracion del camino en la selva que dibuja una linea continua, y levanta a la distancia paredes de asfalto que solo son enormes cuestas negras repetidas que cortan lo verde; un dia en Cote d'Ivore Ahmet conto, agotado, mas de 50; a veces son tuneles de arboles los que te bendicen con su sombra, otras la detruccion de la selva termina por conmoverte en tu necesidad de descanso, te hace pedalear kms solo buscando. La carretera es buena; por momentos la destruccion se come el camino desde los lados en Ghana, pero siempre es asfalto. Cantos y tambores en las noches, en las que intentas dormir. Los mosquitos son una batalla aparte pues algunos contienen el dano, se llevan tu sangre y te dejan escozores que hacen dificil descansar. La gente exhibe sus cuerpos con orgullo y naturalidad, es un espectaculo ver personas tan fuertes moverse con una gracilidad y soltura que ni entrenando 5 anos seguidos podrias conseguir; cuerpos humanos en la plenitud de sus formas, la belleza no deja de llamarnos desde todos lados, los peinados de las mujeres y los cuerpos desnudos son parte del calor y se saben hermosos; ellos nos miran y nosotros hacemos lo mismo. Me he vuelto lento por las mananas casi siempre soy el ultimo en estar listo, una sensacion de inseguridad me hace necesitar mas a mis amigos hasta para buscar comida. Tenemos playas paradisiacas, plantaciones de caucho que se pierden en el horizonte, las villas que son gentes multiplicadas en sus hijos que nos rodean, siempre es asi; la comida es nueva para nosotros hay que aprender que comer, cuanto cuesta, intentar balancear bien una alimentacion apurada que te exige estar listo para continuar casi inmediatamente, hay que hacerlo lo mejor posible, lo que venga en adelante depende tambien de como te preparaste para recibirlo y por momentos todo es tan estresante, tienes que cambiar de actitud, aprender a relajarte mientras intentas descansar o comer al lado de los canales de miasmas y la basura (donde se vende la comida), evitar en lo posible las moscas, que tambien buscan comida, todo esto frente a mas de 20 personas que te miran como quien va a un zoologico y que te siguen mirando a lo largo del dia en cuanta parada hagas, cuando quieres cambiarte de ropa o hasta cuando vas a defecar entre los arbustos, y la gente es tan amable y amistosa. Varias veces hemos dicho basta, irritados, cansados; aun asi todo sigue siendo un sueno y cada dia un regalo que se hace dificil merecer; a veces siento que es cierta inercia lo que me mueve, apoyandome en el grupo para poder continuar, pero se que este es mi camino, sufro de un choque cultural del que aun me estoy reponiendo y que debo de salir de la inseguridad y el miedo. Walter. ABIDJAN, IVORY COAST March 07, 1999. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Ivory Coast. I feel very sorry and upset that the message I sent you around 20 Feb from Accra didn't arrive. I paid a lot of money and spent much time, invain. Gagnoa, Ivory CoastHere in Africa big difficulties with connection, I too sometimes might make a mistake and send information not from my account but from the company's account, that is what could happen with my message. At the moment we are packing things and leave ABIDJAN heading for Dabou about 50 km from here. Using the spare minutes I wish to say that the group (eight of us - Oli, Slavo, Ahmet, Manuel, Walter, Sigitas, Edvardas and myself) like never before is very friendly, flexible, patient towards each other and has a good sense of humour. Everybody is healthy too. According to the route that we have planned for Ivory Coast to raech the Guinea border it will take us around 10 days. Instead of the highway running in the neighbourhood of one national parks of the country we chose the quieter and smaller road going through the deep country. After visiting the Polish Embassy, Slavo told that 200 km before and after the Guinea border there will be sand road. I guess not many opportunities to send e-mails either. Please, be patient. I know it is hard to endure the silence. Love, Goda ZURICK, SWITZERLAND February 22, 1999. Received from Volki, Germany. I am Volki from Germany,Olis brother.My parents and I met the peaceriders at sunday the 14.2.1999 at about 7.00am in Zürich at the airport. At the 11.2.99 my brother phoned us and siad:"If you want to see me, you shoud be at sunday in Zürich!" We invited the group for some cakes and coffee because we thought that they have slimed on their tour. They all locked very healthy and nobody was as slim as we had thought. My brother told that after riding a half year on his bike,it was to fast for his brain to fly nearly the same way in some houers. This group have my whole respekt. Goda asked me if I want to write some sentence about them, here they are. Sorry for my bad English. Volki. DIVO, IVORY COAST March 08, 1999. Received from Goda Ciplyte, Ivory Coast. Strange black people around and even more strange music disturbing the poor African silence I have been enjoying since yesterday. No electricity and telephone lines did not work - a storng wind and heavy rain. We came to a large caffee to hide from the heavy clouds and rest for the night. The heavy roof fell down... we were in the neighbouring building. Myself standing in the swimming suit and nothing more, had left everything in the caffee. I was enjoying the refreshing showering rain when a voice called me inside ... a few minutes later the heavy water soaked roof fell down and squeezed all the four bikes to the floor [...]. Extremely poor, but never complaining. Accra, Ghana. 99.02.23.[...]The damages were not as big as I had expected. Ahmet said - my life is more important than my bike. Sure, I did not even think about it and took it for granted. We are going on. My bike has been slightly damaged and Ahmet's camera out of order. He has to get a new one, if he wants to make pictures. International Women's Day. I ate four eggs and drank liters of water to die my sorrow and satisfy hunger! Goda March 10, 1999 Received from Goda Ciplyte, Ivory Coast. Today we decided to have a rest day in Gagnoa. Everybody had a bad night. It rained before we put up the tents. The air was heavy, hot and damp, and worse in my tent - small night prison. Damp and hot and too frustrating to fall asleep : I remembered the fried eggs I had eaten, felt like evaporating and becoming part of the hot damp air, wanted to go next doors and sleep with a black man to have a sream of cool air over my body, counted how many more kilometres to make until nights would be as cool as to have a decent sleep after a very hard cycling day, and how many more days to encounter daily inconveniencies - lack of water, food, hygiene [...] I want a good life like you!... Hohoe, Ghana. 99.02.18. [...] I got up and went out just with the clothes I have been "sleeping" - Peter's t-shirt and piece of cloth around the hips. I could have stood in the middle of the road for something to happen, I could have knocked on somebody's-who-I-don't-know door, I could have done something beyond my control. I found myself in hospital - walking and looking for a little better place to sleep. I found a fan and bed too! However, the hospital was overfilled with the sick, no comfort at all. Somebody asked me in French - "White woman, what are you looking for ". I shook my head trying to say " ...nothing" and turned towards the exit. I slept only in the morning when it rained again. Goda My Africa March 09, 1999. Received from David, International Biking Fund I understand from my African colleagues that the Peace Ride flew from South America to Ghana (via Switzerland). They spent time in Accra with Bike Youth and then headed to Ivory Coast. Within the last week they were seen upcountry in Ivory Coast heading for Man. David, from the INTERNATIONAL BICYCLE FUND ~ Promoting sustainable transport and tourism worldwide Email: ibike@ibike.org Internet: http://www.ibike.org Goda Danane, Ivory Coast March 16, 1999 Received from Sigitas Kucas, Ivory Coast. Tomorrow we are leaving Ivory Coast; all days from Gagnoa the telephone lines didn't work. Sigitas 216 day, Mar 8, Tiassale - Divo, 69 km by bike, AVS 15.4 km/h, t 4h35min, max 43 km/h; hot sun all the day, hilly; 217 day, Mar 9, Divo - Gagnoa, 86 km by bike, AVS 16.6 km/h, t 5h13min, max 54 km/h; cloudy in the morning, sun afternoon, rain before night and at night, more hilly than yesterday; 218 day, Mar 10, stay in Gagnoa, the rest day; 219 day, Mar 11, Gagnoa - Issia, 91 km by bike, AVS 16.2 km/h, t 5h37min, max 48 km/h; less hilly, cloudy, warm but not hot; 220 day, Mar 12, Issia - La Sassandra (Deleya), 62 km by bike, AVS 15.2 km/h, t 4h5min; hilly, hot day; 221 day, Mar 13, La Sasandra (Deleya) - Bangolo, 82 km by bike, AVS 16.5 km/h, t 4h58min; 222 day, Mar 14 Bangolo - Man, 50 km by bike, AVS 16.2 km/h, t 3h5min; 223 day, Mar 15, Man - Danane, 77 km by bike, AVS 15.4 km/h, t 4h58min; 224 day, Mar 16, stay in Danane, the rest day; Total 10419 km by bike, 1312 km in Africa. Nzerekore - Guinea, 19 Mar 1999 Hello, It was impossible connection earlier. We were without electricity and telephone. Today we have come to Nzerekore, but I am not sure if I succeed with connection. In any case, best regards. Sigitas IVORY COAST: 209 day, Mar 1, Elubo - Eboue, 56 km by bike, AVS 16.9 km/h, max 54 km/h, against the wind, sun all the day; 210 day Mar 2, Eboue - Mindoukon (Grand-Bassam) 97 km by bike, AVS 18.3 km/h, max 52 km/h; 211 day Mar 3, Mindoukon - Grand-Bassam - Abidjan, 55 km by bike, AVS 14 km/h, max 36 km/h, very hot sun; 212-213 days, Mar 4-5, stay in Abidjan, visas ; 214 day, Mar 6, Abidjan - Dabou, 54 km by bike, AVS 15.3 km/h, t 3h31min, max 49.2 km/h; 215 day, Mar 7, Dabou - Tiassale, 94 km by bike, AVS 17.6 km/h, t 5h18min, max 45 km/h; sun, storm before night; 216 day, Mar 8, Tiassale - Divo, 69 km by bike, AVS 15.4 km/h, t 4h35min,max 43 km/h; hot sun all the day, hilly; 217 day, Mar 9, Divo - Gagnoa, 86 km by bike, AVS 16.6 km/h, t 5h13min, max 54 km/h; cloudy in the morning, sun afternoon, rain before night and at night, more hilly than yesterday; 218 day, Mar 10, stay in Gagnoa, the rest day; 219 day, Mar 11, Gagnoa - Issia, 91 km by bike, AVS 16.2 km/h, t 5h37min, max 48 km/h; less hilly, cloudy, warm but not hot; 220 day, Mar 12, Issia - La Sassandra (Deleya), 62 km by bike, AVS 15.2 km/h, t 4h5min; hilly, hot day; 221 day, Mar 13, La Sasandra (Deleya) - Bangolo, 82 km by bike, AVS 16.5 km/h, t 4h58min; 222 day, Mar 14 Bangolo - Man, 50 km by bike, AVS 16.2 km/h, t 3h5min; 223 day, Mar 15, Man - Danane, 77 km by bike, AVS 15.4 km/h, t 4h58min; 224 day, Mar 16, stay in Danane, the rest day; 225 day, Mar 17, Danane - border Ivory coast-Guinea, 54 km by bike, AVS 12.8 km/h, t 4h13min, max 41 km/h; narrow gravel road practically without traffic; sun all the day; Total in Ivory Coast: 17 days (13 cycling), 927 km by bike, no transportation Total 10473 km by bike, 1366 km in Africa; 226 day, Mar 18, border Ivory coast-Guinea - Moata, 59 km by bike, AVS 12.6 km/h, narrow gravel road until Lola, after Lola new asphalt; till Lola (42 km) AVS 12 km/h; sun, at 5p.m. strong rain; Labe, 22 Mar 1999 We have come yesterday to Labe. Again several days we had no electricity and no chance for Internet. Today we found a man who promised to help us. At 3 p.m. we will try to get connection. Sigitas GUINEA: 226 day, Mar 18, border Ivory coast-Guinea - Moata, 59 km by bike, AVS 12.6 km/h, narrow gravel road until Lola, after Lola new asphalt; till Lola (42 km) AVS 12 km/h; sun, at 5p.m. strong rain; 227 day, Mar 19, Moata - Nzebela, 80 km by bike, AVS 15.3 km/h, t 5h12min, max 51 km/h; 228 day, Mar 20, Nzebela - Macenta, 85 km by bike, AVS 14.6 km/h, t 5h50min, max 54 km/h; hilly road; 229 day, Mar 21, Macenta - Guekedou, 89 km by bike, AVS 13.8 km, t 6h27min, max 54 km/h; mountains, the good parts of road changing with very bad ones; 230 day, Mar 22, Guekedou - Labe, 545 km by car; 231 day, Mar 23, rest day in Labe; Total 10786 km by bike, 1679 km in Africa; 313 km by bike in Guinea; Sigitas AFRICA March, 1999 Received from Walter, Ivory Coast - Spanish. (What follows is the continuation of notes begun by Walter in South America (see the South America section to get the first part). DANANE Mis hermanos se van..., ahora necesito tanto la tierra. AL PARTIR DE DANANE Tiene corazon este camino? Hoy el camino se abre en Africa. Adios a Danane. El master Joseph puede leerme con tan solo mirarme a los ojos y yo estoy dispuesto; sabe que extrano a mi familia, mi lugar, que el viajar me hara Hombre y sere fuerte. El me llama Walter man. Paz interior, en las palabras de los refugiados que nos hablan de paz; y entonces a pesar de todas las diferencias culturales, que tambien existen, hablamos de la misma busqueda. No es posible la paz si hay conflicto, detener la guerra es lo mas urgente, detener la guerra, pero la verdadera paz se encuentra al interior de nosotros; y la paz del mundo, de la que tanto hablamos, no puede darse si es que la paz en nosotros no existe. Son palabras de refugiados, vienen de lejos, hablan diferente, sin mas remedio, escaparon de los infiernos en los que sus hogares se convirtieron, abandonaron todo lo que tenian menos las desgracias en la memoria. Es impensable la guerra en un lugar como este, lleno de gente tan pacifica y sin embargo unos pocos kms y unas fronteras nos separan de la muerte. No puedo imaginar gente mas abierta y de mirar mas claro y todavia no entiendo. No quiero pensar en la maldad. De Liberia, de Sierra Leona, refugiados en Danane que nos muestran sus cicatrices, tambien las de sus cuerpos, heridas abiertas, frustracion y furia. He tenido que viajar hasta aqui para comprender, una guerra desgarraba mi propio pais y yo no podia entender porque no podia distanciarme para observar. Talk about peace master Joseph. Hablame de paz que yo soy un hombre. Partiendo de Danane acaba el asfalto y comienza la tierra. Este camino es diferente lleno de piedras enormes y de cuestas empinadas que te hacen bajar de la bici para continuar empujando, ahora el camino atraviesa el centro de las villas y te conviertes en parte de ellas mientras te hablan al mismo tiempo muchas voces vecinas; muy tarde llegamos los cinco a la frontera de Cote d'Ivoire con Guinee, un puente sobre un rio que es tierra de nadie. Toda la ruta de hoy he tratado de leer en las cosas, en estos cambios repentinos que nos separan de un momento a otro de nuestros hermanos Manuel, Oliver y de Ahmet a quien no pudimos decir adios, see you on the way. Por que no pudieron vivir con nosotros este dia hermoso que parte nuestra ruta africana entre antes y despues? Este dia nos separa a nosotros en Guinne y a ellos en Abidjan, es el retorno hacia atras por primera vez para Oli. Recuerdo a los tres muchachos alemanes que encontramos en Tiassale, viajando desde casa casi seis meses y con todas las huellas de Africa y de la larga ruta sobre ellos; uno habia hecho los ultimos mil kms desde Guinne sin descarrilador (simplex) en este camino de cuestas casi montanas con todo su equipaje encima de la bici; sus pieles bronceadas y heridas, cicatrices, todo el trayecto en lo cansado de sus cuerpos, en esa manana de desayuno comun en ese kiosko en el que las moscas son parte del ser de las cosas y de la comida, mas de 10 posadas sobre un pan que luego uno de ellos comera con naturalidad; rostros cansados, llenos de paz y de un poco de tristeza porque dentro de dos dias el viaje acaba para ellos en Abidjan, donde iran a realizar un trabajo civil como voluntarios. Por que hemos pasado esta frontera Goda, Sigitas, Edvardas, Slavik y yo? Por que estos regalos dia a dia? No me derrumbo en el dolor de la separacion a pesar de toda la enorme tristeza. Siento en mi interior el convencimiento que todo es para bien nuestro y que debemos de aprender mas estos meses que nos dejaremos de ver, aunque no estoy seguro del tiempo, se que volveremos a encontrarnos, lo siento, y entonces trato de arrancarle las lecciones de vida a este dolor que no es nada contra la muerte. Hoy al partir de Danane coloco en mi equipaje, con orgullo de quien soy, mi membrete de Peace Rider que no me atrevi a colocar en Accra, cuando la ruta ya estaba tomada a pesar de los zigzages; ahora esta dentro mio, siento que puedo hacer las cosas que decida hacer, esta dentro de mi. He perdido el miedo y soy capaz de estar preparado a tiempo para dejar la ciudad sin olvidar a mi hermanito del taller de bicicletas que reparo mi nave. Estoy listo para la batalla: hagase senor segun tu voluntad. Islam. Walter. EMERGENCY RESCUE March 15, 1999 A testimony received from Brimah Fofanah, Sierra Leone refugee w Before the revolutionary United Front RUF attacked Kono distrcict in Sierra Leone, our entire family was united and hapily living together in Koidu town, Kono district. My father was a staunch supporter of the former ruling party (APC) and also a party tresurer in the same locality. He was also a diamond and gold buyer. Suddenly one morning in mid October 1991 the rebels of the RUF took over the Kono district and before we could decide what to do, they arrived at our house is search of our father. They put us all under the gun point and we were beaten up while interrogating about the whereabouts of our mother and father. We were tortured, my two younger sisters (12 and 16 years old) raped in my presence, later taken to the base and were detained. There we learned that our mother and father have been killed. After a couple of months of mental and physical torture, we were rescued by the government forces, who launched a counter atack on the positions of the rebel forces. After interrogation the government forces learned that we were the children of the partisan Paul Fofana, and therefore immediately released us. By the time of our release, our entire property had been looted, vandalised and our house burned to ashes. Out of fear we escaped through the bushes by foot for several days to the neighbouring Guinea on route to Liberia. Through hard work and determination, my sisters and I started new life in Gbanga city, Liberia. In 1994 the city of Gbanga was attacked by rebel forces and subsequently my two sisters were killed. By foot and someties hiking I made my way through the bushes to Monrovia, capital of Liberia. In April 1996 while in search of Roosevelt Johnson, there was a mountain tension, which resourted to a civil strive, making me to Ivory Coast in the hope of better life than in Guinea and Liberia. At Loguato, Liberia border crossing point, the immigration officers allowed me into Ivory Coast seeing my condition. On 26 March 1997 some unknown assilants attacked me, while I was on my way home in Danane. One of the assilants stabbed me with a knife on my back and forehead. Luckily people rescued and took me to hospital where I spent three months. The case was reported to the Gendermerie (security officers) in Danane. (Reference number COMPAGNE, Man brigade gendermerie, NLE, s/c responsible : United Nations; Danane, 26 March 1997). Since that time my life has been in constant fear and thereat. For instance, on 17 September 1998 some unknown persons threatend "by the time we are finished with you, you will regret ever being born". As a result of all these incidents and attacks, it is evident that my life is in danger. Brimah Fofanah Sierra Leonean refugee 15 March 1999 If you wish to reply, please write to: Brima Fofanah BP 21, Danane, Ivory Coast Or Joseph K. Simbo Director St Jean's extension school , Catholic mission BP 193, Danane, Ivory Coast NZREKORE, GUINEA March 19, 1999 Received from Goda, Guinea My dear friends, life is hard here and often I ask myself why things are the way they are. The four of us - Slavo, Ahmet, Oli and Manuel - got sick with malaria, that is what they say. However, none of the boys had the blood test, the only reliable method to tell the origin of the disease. The doctor Oli saw at night did not more than thouching his head to see the temperature and measuring the blood preassure. He prescribed "curative treatment of malaria". Manuel spent three days in hospital with high fever. Ahmet hardly walked to reach the closest hotel. He managed with some medicine he had taken from Germany. Slavo was lucky enough to get the fever before leaving Abidjan, so the people of the Polish embassy and adventist church took good care of him giving proper food and any kind of medicine that might help. Why Slavo, Ahmet, Oli and Manuel ? There must be a reason... A few days later I stopped cycling feeling dizzy and weak. For three days I have been feeling like that was my last day. I do not know, if I was just week from the sun, unefficient food, sick or scared of getting the infection. Together with Sigitas, who was having terrible diaria, I took transportation. We had not seen the boys for five days since Gagnoa, (had agreed to meet up in Danane, last small town before the Guinea border). I was happy to meet Oli and Manuel on the way. Strangely they came by taxi. Oli said the ride for both of them was over. Somebody stole his and Manuel's bike, and they felt too weak to do more than go home. They also said Ahmet had enough of everything, and thought still with fever, he decided to go home - Turkey. Luckily Slavo was already waiting for us in Danane. Being strong enough, he decided to continue. He also brought passports with Senegal visas, which he received for us in Abidjan. So we spend one more evening together, but without Ahmet. Sad... and different from what we used to be ... Danane, Ivory Coast. March 15, 1999 In Danane, last Ivory Coast town, I happened to read a strange story, which I found on the table. Later a man with a sad looking face, director of the Sierra-Leone and Liberia refugee children school, told it was his brother's story. I wanted to know more, because I could hear it straight from the horse mouth. As it turned out later everybody in Africa call someone from the same town or place "brother or sister". Next morning I met a young man, the partisan's son and Liberian refugee. This is his story. ........................... LABE, GUINEA March 29, 1999 Received from Goda, Guinea. ...Let there be light... let there be love... and there was light. ... the priest returned from service and switched on the local generator. Life became different for the few minutes. I did not have to make effort to see the things on the floor or hopelessly try to put on the lantern to have more light. I too remembered the annoyng encounter with the post officer. When I tried to explain that the few minutes we had hooked up to their electricity resource cost nothing he uttered sarcastically - "nothing"?! He was damn right - for us it is nothing, for them it is special to have light in the priest's house, for he is either having important guests or preparing for the history lessons, it is special to have a good drivable road or water running from the tap, feels like in Europe, if you get that! My God, am I complaining or what? After Ahmet, Oli and Manuel quit the ride Walter changed and is rejoycing, so he would tell - "my friend, do not worry, we can survive, we are rebels"... Rebels "against" or "for what" I asked him. Slavo interrupted and explained - one day we fight with the police for the right to take pictures, next day we fight for the internet access with a post officer stupidly assuring us that plenty international organisations have it, lastly we fight for money to continue! Just an episode ... Today the five of us - Slavo, Walter, Sigitas, Edvardas amd me - are in the middle of Guinea, Labe, resting in the church of Catholic Mission after taking long and tiring transportation from Gueckedou. Five days we cycled along the border of Liberia and Sierra Leone. My father begged - "please, do not go to these countries". No, I do not want to be shot or threatened neither do the refugees we have been meeting on this road. In Danane, Ivory Coast, they gathered to learn French to start a new life. When in Guinea, English speaking boys, very friendly and helpfull, told they had little to eat took and showed us to the camp to see how they live, later in Macenta we met a man, who told he headed a medical laboratory researching the malaria vaccine jointly with the Swiss institute, but the war in Liberia destroyed the work and his family had to flee, and last days a young man begged -"please, help me to get out of here". One of African realities. Most of them think, if they get my address they have a guarantee to enter the world on the whites! In one month I conquered my fear of the blacks, but I never will be able to help so many people in need of human understanding and support. ... so let there be love... Goda. PS. : Since Abidjan we have been really struggling for sending and receiving messages. Today this is very seldom and expensive opportunity to send information, possible next one will be only Dakar. Just want to tell everybody we are well and strong surviving anything that comes our way. Inthe next 3-4 days we plan to cross Kundara National Park and enter Senegal from the south coming to Dakar, the always anoying cities, by some transport. The biggest concern - Western Sahara - still ahead, I am sure we will find the way, exctly what I do not know, we are still reading and planning. Please, our special wishes to AHMET, OLI and MANUEL, who spent so much time with us. Guys, tell us how you got home and how you are, we want to hear from you! We miss you! Slavo, Walter, Edvardas, Sigitas and Goda KOUNDARA, GUINEA March 30, 1999 Received from Sigitas, Guinea After 4 hard hot days crossing savanna we have come to Koundara, where found the electricity in the administration of he National Park Du Badia. I am not sure about success to connect to Internet but will try my best. Tomorrow we should reach Senegal. Maybe in Senegal we can be on line more often. With greetings Sigitas 231-232 days, Mar 23-24, rest in Labe ; 233 day, Mar 25, Labe - Tanguel Bori, 58 km by bike, AVS 10.5 km/h, t 5h30min, max 38 km/h; gravel road, mountains; 234 day, Mar 26, Tanguel Bori - plato behind Bantala, 65 km by bike, AVS 13.2 km/h, t 4h56min, max 37 km/h; gravel road, mountains; 235 day, Mar 27, plato behind Bantala - Kounsitel, 38 km by bike, AVS 13.8 km/h, t 2h45min, max 33 km/h; gravel road, mountains, very hot savanna; 236 day, Mar 28, Kounsitel - Koundara, 98 km by bike, AVS 14.4 km/h, t 6h48min; hot day, good gravel road; Total 11045 km by bike, 1938 km in Africa ; 572 km by bike + 545 km by car in Guinea; TAMBA-COUNDA, SENEGAL April 1st, 1999 Received from Goda, Senegal. ."... It is beyond my control", says Walter... "That's what a man says to a woman when he wants to get hold of her...", I reply fighting to have the computer for a moment before we leave. DAKAR My friend, my brother and sister, My lover, my solder and mister, Listen and hear me, give me a hope, and no fear ... to be dirty, but healthy, to be tired, but strong, to be woman - no wrong. What can I offer you? What can I say? Being so close And still far away?! Give me a hope that my friend will be well, Give me a hope there will be no hell, Tell me you'll feed me and love me again, And I will be back to kiss you, my friend. With much love, care and hope from Goda in Tamba-Counda waiting for a night train to Dakar PS. I created the poem in a few minutes, for there were too many thoughts and experiences happening last days. Cycling in North Guinee (Labe - Koundara) on a bad sand road in the heat of 45 degrees I have been starving, asking food from poor black people, thirsty, dirty, angry and week. The only wish I have - to reach Dakar as quiclky as possible - take money from a bank, have clean and decent food, rest and forget all the existance problems at least for a while. Forget the lack of electricity, stone roads, water, thirst, hunger, dirt. I am dying to read e-mails, write post-cards to my friends and family to say I'm here, I'm alive! Very seldom, but today I want a party. After 239 days (8 months and 3 days) away from home, having cycled 11.045 km, avoided possibility to get any kind of African desease, managed to get myself untill Tamba-Counda (461 km before Dakar), I thank God, I am here, I am alive, I want a party. Goda. ST LOUIS, SENEGAL April 16, 1999 Received from Sigitas, Senegal. We have just arrived to St. Louis. We have spent a night nine kilometers before the city in the tents surrounded by sand. Yesterday and today we were cycling against the wind hardly making 10 km per hour. There are 257 km from Dakar to St. Louis by the main road. But the manager of bicycle shop in Dakar has encouraged us to ride along the beach where the famous rally "Paris - Dakar" takes the route. The idea to spend a few days at the ocean has catched us. Unfortunately our bikes were too heavy for this adventure, and we have lost much time and our energy pushing the bikes through the deep sand. Finally we had return back to the main road making a big loop, and instead of three it took six days to reach St. Louis. Tomorrow we will cross the border to Mauritania. On 21 Apr we have a flight from Nuakshot to Casablanka. Crossing West Sahara at this time of year is impossible. Below there is the schedule of our route in Senegal. Sigitas 236 day, Mar 28, Kounsitel - Koundara, 98 km by bike, AVS 14.4 km/h, t 6h48min; hot day, good gravel road; 237 day, Mar 29, rest day; 238 day, Mar 30, Koundara - the border (45 km) - Medina Gounas, 113 km by car, very bad road; Total in Guinea: 13 days (8 cycling), 572 km by bike + 590 km transportation SENEGAL: 239 day, Mar 31, Medina Gounas - Tambacounda, 98 km by car, good road, asphalt; 240 day, Apr 1, - Tambacounda - Dakar, 465 km by train; 241-247 days, Apr 2-8 stay in Dakar; rest, visas etc.; 248 day, Apr 9, Dakar - airport, 16 km by bike, AVS 9.2 km/h, t 1h44min; ride through surroundings of Dakar; 249 day, Apr 10, airport - Diamniadio, 45 km by bike, AVS 14.9 km/h, t 3h01min, max 42 km/h; good road, repairing bicycles; 250 day, Apr 11, Diamniadio - Kayar - Ndiop Sao, 72 km by bike, AVS 14.7 km/h, t 4h53min; good road, side wind; 251 day, Apr 12, Ndiop Sao - beach Mboro Ndeundekat-Fas Boye, 25 km by bike, AVS 9.7 km/h, t 2h31min; the last 6 km pushing the bikes in the deep sand; 252 day, Apr 13, beach Mboro Ndeundekat-Fas Boye - Ndomor, 32 km by bike, AVS 9.6 km/h, t 3h20min; the first 8 km pushng the bike through sand in the beach, repairing bicycles; 253 day, Apr 14, Ndomor - Gueoul, 98 km by bike, AVS 17 km/h, t 5h45min; very good road; 254 day, Apr 15, Gueoul - Gandon (St. Louis) 74 km by bike, AVS 13 km/h, t 5h53min; good road, all the day against the wind; Total in Senegal: 362 km by bike + 631 km transportation; Total in Africa: 2300 km by bike + 1221 km transportation; Total: 11407 km by bike; Sigitas. ROSSO, MAURITANIA April 18th, 1999 Received from Sigitas, Mauritania. We have just crossed by ferry the Senegal river and arrived into Mauritania. Below there is the schedule of our route of the last days in Senegal. Sigitas P.S. Today is half time of our Peace Ride. 253 day, Apr 14, Ndomor - Gueoul, 98 km by bike, AVS 17 km/h, t 5h45min; very good road; 254 day, Apr 15, Gueoul - Gandon (St. Louis) 74 km by bike, AVS 13 km/h, t 5h53min; good road, all the day against the wind; 255 day, Apr 16, Gandon (St. Louis) - University of St. Louis, 32 km by bike, AVS 10.4 km/h, t 3h04min; we spent the whole day in St. Louis; 256 day, Apr 17, University of St. Louis - Rosso, 89 km by bike, AVS 14.5 km/h, t 6h08min; very hot sun, afternoon ride through desert, very strong side wind; 7 times we had flat tires; Total in Senegal: 18 days (9 cycling), 483 km by bike + 631 km transportation Total 11528 km by bike, 2421 km in Africa (plus 1221 km transportation); Sigitas. RABAT, MOROCCO April 27, 1999 Received from Sigitas. Sorry that we had not sufficient technical possibilities and also our power was not enough to communicate with you during the ride in Africa. Really it was the hardest part of the Peace Ride route. We are staying now in Catolics Peace Mission in Rabat, third day enjoying the city and advantages of european civilization. Tomorrow we will continue the ride. As you see, we have come to Morocco ahead our schedule and will enter Europe in time. Below there is the route of our last days: MAURITANIA: 256 day, Apr 18, Rosso - 66 km of the road, 66 km by bike, AVS 12.1 km/h, t 5h27min; ferry across Senegal river, border formalities, hot sun during the day, afternoon against front wind; 257 day, Apr 19, 66 km - 171 km, 105 km by bike, AVS 9.2 km/h, t 11h24min; hot sun, all the day against very strong front wind; 258 day, Apr 20, 171 km - Nouakchott, 32 km by bike, AVS 9.8 km/h, t 3h15min; against strong front wind; Total in Mauritania: 3 cycling days, 203 km by bike; Total 11731 km by bike, 2624 km in Africa (plus 1221 km transportation); MOROCCO: 259 day, Apr 21, Nouakchott - Casablanca, by plane; airport Mohamed V - Casablanca, 30 km by bike, AVS 17 km/h, t 1h45min; good road, fresh air; 260 day, Apr 22, stay in Casablanca, visas, shopping; 261 day, Apr 23, Casablanca - Ain Harrouda, 24 km by bike, AVS 14.7 km/h, t 1h37min; 262 day, Apr 24, Ain Harrouda - O. Cherrat, 36 km by bike, AVS 16.8 km/h, t 2h08min; picturesque road along the Atlantic coast, repairing bicycles; 263 day, Apr 25, O. Cherrat - Rabat, 40 km by bike, AVS 16.5k/h, t 2h25min; good road along the coast; 264-265 days, Apr 26-27, rest days in Rabat; 266 day, Apr 28, Rabat - Khemisset, 83 km by bike,AVS 22 km/h,t 3h46min; good road, easy ride, wind in the back; 267 day, Apr 29, Khemisset - Meknes, 66 km by bike, AVS 17 km/h, t 3h52min, picturesque hilly road; 268 day, Apr 30, Meknes - Fes, 56 km by bike, AVS 18 km/h, t 3h06min; good road, easy ride; Plan for the next days in Morocco: Fes - Ain-Aicha Ain-Aicha - Ketama Ketama El-Jebha El-Jebha - Targha Targha - Marti Marti – Sebta RABAT, MOROCCO April, 1999 Received from Walter - spanish. [This is something about Rabat in Maroc for our website, I whish I'd have more time for writing and time to continue this travel. I will write more soon]. Rabat es un castillo cortado por una ciudad de bosques, altas palmeras y casas blancas; aqui los arboles forman corredores que tambien llevan las avenidas hacia el oceano. Ayer Mohamed V contempla en su avenida miles de voces gritandole a un edificio sin nombre, una furia de voces ordenadas en consignas se derrama en esta tarde en que las reconozco y no me dicen mas tampoco; hay una osadia ostensible en esto de tomar unas calles rodeadas por camiones de la Surete. Ahora cruzo frente a la multitud en mi bicicleta y la furia de sonidos es un canto que remece mi cuerpo en cadencias tambien felices porque trasuntanesperanza; trato de entender, pero las banderolas y pancartas que estos seres humanos levantan estan escritas en arabe y solo me dejo llevar por estas canciones nuevas gritandose agitadas que llegan a conmoverme. Tengo tiempo aun de dar una vuelta buscando un banco para seguir viviendo lejos de casa y me siento a observar deseando obtener las respuestas que seguramente hoy no tendre (la tarde se va apagando enrojecida sobre cientos de manos que se alzan marcando una V que es la paz o la victoria). ALGESIRAS, SPAIN May 7, 1999 Received from Sigitas, Spain. Yesterday the Peace Ride arrived to Europe. I am sending the route of last days in Morocco. 264-265 days, Apr 26-27, rest days in Rabat; 266 day, Apr 28, Rabat - Khemisset, 83 km by bike,AVS 22 km/h,t 3h46min; good road, easy ride, wind in the back; 267 day, Apr 29, Khemisset - Meknes, 66 km by bike, AVS 17 km/h, t 3h52min, picturesque hilly road; 268 day, Apr 30, Meknes - Fes, 56 km by bike, AVS 18 km/h, t 3h06min; good road, easy ride; 269 day, May 1, Fes - Ain-Aicha, 68 km by bike,AVS 15 km/h, t 4h32min; nice road through mountains, not steep ascents and descents; 270 day, May 2, Ain-Aicha - Souk-el-Had-de-Ikauen, 48 km by bike, AVS 9km/h, t5h20min; nice road through mountains, several very steep ascents; short rains; 271 day, May 3, Souk-el-Had-de-Ikauen - El-Jebha, 114 km by bike, AVS 15km/h; long hard ascents (AVS 7-8km/h) until the turn to the Mediterranian Sea, after that a very beautiful descent of 60 km distance; 272 day, May 4, El-Jebha - Bou-Ahmed, 61 km by bike, AVS 12 km/h, t 5h05min; beautiful road, hard ascents and descents; 273 day, May 5, Bou-Ahmed - Tetouan - Cabo Negro, 87 km by bike, AVS 13 km/h, t 6h41min; very beautiful road going through the coastal rocks, steep ascents and descents; 274 day, May 6, Cabo Negro - Sebta, 31 km by bike, AVS 20 km/h, t 1h33min; Total in Morocco: 16 days (13 cycling), 744 km by bike; Total 12475 km by bike, 3368 km in Africa (plus 1221 km transportation; flight Nouakchot - Casablanca not included); GRANADA, SPAIN May 12, 1999 Received from Sigitas, Spain. Below there is a real schedule of our first days in Europe. I will make efforts to forward our movement regularly with every connection to Internet. Sigitas EUROPA SPAIN: 275 day, May 7, rest in Algeciras; 276 day, May 8, Algeciras - San Roque, 21 km by bike, AVS 18 km/h, t 1h10min; highway; 277 day, May 9, San Roque - Torremolinos, 113 km by bike, AVS 17.3 km/h, t 6h32min; highway along the coast; 278 day, May 10, Torremolinos - Malaga - Almunecar, 89 km by bike, AVS 15.8 km/h, t 5h38min; highway along the coast, starting from Nerja long ascents and descents; very beautiful road; 279 day, May 11, Almunecar - Granada, 83 km by bike, AVS 14.7 km/h, t 5h38min, max 59 km/h; beautiful road through mountains, long ascent, hot sunny day; 280 day, May 12, the rest day in Granada; Total in Spain: 6 days (4 cycling), 306 km by bike; Total 12781 km by bike. VALENCIA, SPAIN May 16, 1999 Received from Sigitas, Spain. These were not easy but very beautiful days along the Mediterranean Coast. We have come to Valencia on Sunday. Tomorrow we will try to make some media attention. Afternoon we hope to take a train for Barcelona. Sigitas 281 day, May 13, Granada - Murcia, 278 km by bus; Murcia - Santomera, 15 km by bike, AVS 13.6 km/h, t 1h08min; 282 day, May 14, Santomera - Alicante - La Vila Joiosa, 102 km by bike, AVS 17.6 km/h; t 5h46min; 283 day, May 15, La Vila Joiosa - Javea - Xeresa, 131 km by bike, AVS 16.8 km/h, t 7h48min, max 54 km/h; beautiful road along the coast, visiting beaches of Altea, Calp, el Portet de Moraira, Denia; many ascents and descents; 284 day, May 16, Xeresa - Valencia, 69 km by bike, AVS 16.7 km/h, t 4h07min, max 35 km/h; easy coastal road; Total in Spain: 10 days (8 cycling), 623 km by bike; plus 278 km by bus; Total 13098 km by bike; FIGERAS, SPAIN May 20, 1999 Received from Xavier, France. I received a phonecall this morning from Sigitas telling me that they were in Figeras, near the french borderline. They will cross the border this afternoon and we will meet tomorrow morning in Perpignan, France. More developments to come then. Xavier BEZIERS, FRANCE May 29, 1999 Received from Xavier, France. So I met the peaceriders in Perpignan, two years after having taken part to their trip around Europe from Le Havre to Paris, in august 1997. it was a really nice and interesting experience, quite unusal, and I will write my story of it in the following days, adding some photos too. For the moment, the peaceriders are somewhere in France, perhaps not far from paris. When I saw them, they were five (Goda, Sigitas and Edvardas from Lithuania, Slawek from Poland, Walter from Peru, and Alberto, 62, from Spain, who joined them for a couple of days, because he was going to Israel). They were in a fine physical shape and there was a good athmosphere in the group. We travelled together from Perpignan to Beziers during two days, taking little roads, and they had a rest day at my home. After that, due to schedule obligations, they took a train to Lyon where they were supposed to meet a couple of young Italians and ride together in the direction of paris. More developments to come about the part of the ride we did together to come soon. Xavier PARIS, FRANCE May 30 , 1999 Received from Sigitas, France. I am sending the route of the last days in Spain and France. On Monday morning we are visiting UNESCO office, afternoon we are leaving from Paris. Today we will meet the new peace rider - Ancica from Croatia is joining us. We will be 8 in the group. Untill now no news from Ghananian riders. Sigitas 285 day, May 17, Valencia - Barcelona, 365 km by train; 286 day, May 18, stay in Barcelona, visiting newspapers; 287 day, May 19, Barcelona (camping 3 Estrellos)- Tordera, 83 km by bike, AVS 17.8 km/h, t 4h41min, max 41 km/h; easy road; 288 day, May 20, Tordera - le Perthus (the border) - le Boulou, 117 km (102 km untill the border) by bike, AVS 17.9 km/h, t 6h31min, max 51 km/h; long easy ascent and short descent through Pirineos mountains; Total in Spain: 14 days (10 cycling), 808 km by bike; plus 643 km transportation; FRANCE: 289 day, May 21, le Boulou - Sigeau, 73 km by bike, AVS 13.9 km/h, t 5h12min; very strong side and front wind; 290 day, May 22, Sigeau - Beziers, 67 km by bike, AVS 12.9 km/h, t 5h21min, max 41 km/h; strong side wind; 291 day, May 23, Beziers - Lyon, 350 km by train; 292 day, May 24, Lyon - La Roche Vineuse, 95 km by bike, AVS 15.6 km/h, t 6h5min; 293 day, May 25, La Roche Vineuse - Ciry-le-Noble, 73 km by byke, AVS 14.5 km/h, t 5h0min; 294 day, May 26, Ciry-le-Noble - Beard, 95 km by bike, AVS 17.3 km/h, t 5h28min; 295 day, May 27, Beard - Bonny, 108 km, AVS 17.1 km/h, t 6h19min; 296 day, May 28, Bonny - Fontaineableau forest, 127 km by bike, AVS 18.3 km/h, t 6h55min; 297 day, May 29, Fontaineableau forest - Paris, 74 km by bike, AVS 17.9 km/h, t 4h08min; 298 day, May 30, rest day in Paris; Total in France: 10 days (8 cycling), 712 km by bike; plus 350 km transportation; Total in Europe: 1520 km by bike; plus 993 km transportation; Total 13760 km by bike; MOISELLE, FRANCE May 31 , 1999 Received from Xavier, France. Sigitas phoned to me yesterday evening from Moiselle, 40 km north to Paris. The group has been biking well from Lyon. An italian couple has joined the group there, and they are going well. Ancica from Croatia is also with them. In Paris they slept in the lithuanian embassy and met some people from the UNESCO office. Xavier. MONS, BELGIUM June 3, 1999 Received from Sigitas, Belgium. The peace ride has arrived yesterday to Belgium. Sigitas 299 day, May 31, Paris - Moiselles, 42 km by bike, AVS 14.2 km/h, t 2h57min; 300 day, June 1, Moiselles - Pierrefonds, 92 km by bike, AVS 16.9 km/h, t 5h27min,max 52 km/h; 301 day, June 2, Pierrefonds - Laon, 93 km by bike, AVS 18.3 km/h, t 5h03min; 302 day, June 3, Laon - Belgium border - Mons, 134 km (118 km untill the border) by bike, AVS 18.4 km/h, t 7h28min; Total in France: 14 days (12 cycling), 1064 km by bike; plus 350 km transportation; Total in Europe: 1888 km by bike; plus 993 km transportation; Total 14363 km by bike. BRUSSELS, BELGIUM June 4 , 1999 Received from Jean-Michel Pochet., Belgium. The Great Millenium Peaceride arrived at Brussels, on friday 4 june. As they were lost, and stopped at a traffic light, Edvardas heard 2 men speaking "You speak lituanian ??" "Yes" (in lituanian of course!), and received help from a diplomat in Belgium for lhe links between Lituania and the 15. Later my wife took him at his Hotel Charlemagne, in the European part of Brussels, they had good beer home, and he brought back video tapes, to be brought back to Vilnius and maybe difused on TV the next day. Later, as they were pedaling in Brussels, a friend active cyclist met them incidentally and brought the team to a manifestation "Masse critique" organized monthly by a group Place-au-Vélo. As 4 of them were sleeping home, he phoned me on the mobilophone : the 40 cyclists present here could so wait for them to join the mass. We cycled three times a very large roundabound with the 4 lanes blocked by bicycles carrying a frame in wood, the size of a car with immatriculation "Ozone" "Benzene"... A police car stopped us in this hour of traffic jam, start of the week-end. The Peaceride were delighted to take pictures of the scene. After discussion we were able to go farther, but using only one lane. So we arrived home late, drank large bottles of belgian beer on the sidewalk with 8 of them. Then I led 4 of them to another appartment. Next morning, we had breakfast : "pistolets" (ie the name of crispy small ball breads in Belgium, + first new "maatjes" young herrings uncooked filets, crevettes grises. Notice : south (the italian couple of Carlotta) eat sugar in the morning, north (Sigitas + Edvardas) eat salt. At noon we joined la "Maison des Cyclistes", where the GRACQ - Groupe de Recherche & d'Action des Cyclistes Quotidiens - had a drink for the opening of the house, in presence of Marie Caroline Coppieters, president of European Cyclists Federation, also located there (31 countries lobby). They discovered also that there was a photo of the Masse critique of yesterday, in the daily LE SOIR (I will send an original to Edvardas home). The precious banner was signed accordingly. Weather : fresh and fine, some showers on Sunday. Mons (Cuesmes)> Brussels : about 70 Km. Brussels- canal de Willebroek-Antwerp, 45 km very flat, and accompanied by 2 belgian members of Fiesters groep. In Antwerp : 4 houses + meal (we had not thought of a meal, Carlotta received pasta, tomato, wine, and my wife and me left at 10 pm to go to... a restaurant , incidentally, we were married the same day, 33 years before.) Back home at 12, they were still chatting. Without the Peaceride, we should have been... in London, but the world came to us ! Jean-Michel Pochet. RHEDEN, NEDERLANDS June 13 , 1999 Received from Goda, Nederlands. Yesterday I came to my dutch friends who kindly gave me the internet connection to send a message, however I did not finish the message and it got automatically sent away. So today 13 June I continue my writings about our trip in Europe. (By the way, by this time the group has reached Gunter, who cycled with us half year, and may be are drinking tea in his house. Meantime me taking rest in a small Dutch town Rheden. I got some terrible boils/blisters and could hardly sit on my bike, so I decided to take more time for myself. I will catch the group on 16 june in Sczecin, Poland.) In Paris our family enlarged, what usually happens after nine months. We picked up a young croatian lady from the railway station and headed straight to UNESCO for an official confirmation to "CONTINUE''. At the headquarters somebody gave me a leaflet - MANIFESTO 2000, wonderful initiative. I open it and read - PEACE IS IN OUR HANDS ! Is it not that wonderful ? Today television and papers announced PEACE in KOSOVO! Everybody can make it, if they try, me too... You can find and sign the Manifesto 2000 at :http://www.unesco.org/manifesto2000. Education and Sports, which aims to promote peace and culture. The conference to be held on 5 - 7 of July in Paris is jointly organised by the UNESCO and the International Olympic Committee. Ms.K. Savolainen encouraged the peace riders to send a greeting note for the conference to be read to its participants during the opening ceremony. Mr. H. Godicke joked about the riders calling them "peace practitioners' ' and expressed gratitude for contribution to the promotion of peace culture in world. he also handed over a list unesco associated schools, national commissions its offices urged ride inform representatives advance about arrival encourage them take part this beutiful mission. ms. u. karvelis, permanent representative lithuania, was delighted that initiative has been launched by lithuanians, who have suceeded organising an international event. summing up she wished riders perseverance good luck attempts change war consciousness world people. officials signed symbolic banner carried riders, later gave interview radio programme lithuania. as result meeting it agreed organise photo exhibition demonstrate film project at headquarters year 2000, culture. representation lithuania. Brussels was busy - joint action with ''Critical Mass'', cycling club, in the heart of Brussels to promote cycling and better conditions for bikes. Most of the Belgian enthusiasts are jealous about the Dutch for Holland is a paradise for bikes and cyclists. Well, well, what to say about Guinee, which hardly has any roads or electricity, but people are like that - they always want more. Antwerpen - wet and sleepy. One local cyclist asked: - Do you always cycle like that ? - Like what, - I wondered. - Like ZOMBIES. - What is ''like zombies?'' - Well, tired and sleepy... Woerden (Netherlands) reminds me of three things - search for Vodka, we were soaked through and dead cold, a Dutch woman, who by coinsidence heard my story when I was talking to an administrator in an art school and, thinking that it was only me and my friend travelling around the world, invited the seven of us in the house, and Fietsvakantiewinkel, a shop for bike enthusiasts - young and old, books, leaflets and tickets to whatever the country, maps and mechanics, all that one needs to start a bike trip around the world. You can look at: www.fietsvakantiewinkel.nl. Amsterdam - an adventure and feast. The main group headed for the reunion with Oliver and Manuel at the train station, while the others missed EYFA on the telephone and had to handle rain hanging outside. Luckily a man passed by and offered his help. Later he said : - I saw you all wet, watter dripping down the clothes, and I do not need to look long, I am an optician. I can tell you more from your eyes... We found the group staying in the old part of an Amsterdam hospital - OLVG, ziekehhous - s squad. In the evening we arrived to Heineken plein together with EYFA to have a bike party. The President, Sigitas, told me to go and change for now I have cycled half world and should be proud to promote the Peace Ride, what to do, "life is life", I obeyed. So we enoyed tea for free a cosy chat with BIKE TOUR and others, who seem to want to travel, but too undecisive to do that. Next day, 10 June, together with the BIKE TOUR'99' we hit the road, however not for long, we went different ways - Peace ride north, Bike Tour south. From my experience bike tour is the most excellent way to start cycling. Since 1991 when I made my first tour with EYFA I became a vegetarian and after 1996 I wanted to travel around the world... (For more information look at http://come.to/biketour At the moment Sunday afternoon, I expect the group is enjoying a cup of tea with the OPEN END TRAVELLER - GUNTER. Goda 1999.06.13. Rheden, Nedherlands LITHUANIA July 2, 1999 Received from Vaidotas Kucas, Lithuania. I was cycling through Lithuania together with the Peaceride group. They all feel good, but Goda is sick, something with her legs. Peaceriders will leave Lithuania in 4 of July. Vaidotas LITHUANIA July 7, 1999 Received from Vidmantas Kuprevicius, Lithuania. It was wonderful time in Lithuania. Many people acompanied the great peaceriders around the country. Vidmantas. ROUTE - EUROPE June 4 - July 12, 1999 Received from Sigitas. BELGIUM: 303 day, June 4, Mons - Brussels, 80 km by bike, AVS 18.1 km/h, t 4h25min; 304 day, June 5, Brussels - Antwerp, 54 km by bike, AVS 18.0 km/h, t 3h0min; 305 day, June 6, Antwerp - Netherlands border - Dordrecht, 112 km (24 km until the border) by bike, AVS 16.1 km/h, t 6h56min; easy flat road, strong rain in the morning; Total in Belgium: 2 days (2 cycling), 174 km by bike; NETHERLANDS: 305 day, June 6, Antwerp - Netherlands border - Dordrecht, 112 km (88 km after the border) by bike, AVS 16.1 km/h, t 6h56min; easy flat road; rainy day; 306 day, June 7, Dordrecht - Woerden, 70 km, AVS 16.5 km/h, t 4h14min; rain; 307 day, June 8, Woerden - Amsterdam, 47 km by bike, AVS 18 km/h, t 2h37min; rain; 308 day, June 9, stay in Amsterdam; 309 day, June 10, Amsterdam - De Eemhol, 65 km by bike, 18.2 km/h, t 3h34min; beautiful bicycle roads; 310 day, June 11, De Eemhol - Werden (Lysanderhoeve camping), 107 km by bike, AVS 18.1 km/h, t 5h57min; 311 day, June 12, Werden - German border - Bad Bentheim, 68 km (51 km until the border), AVS 20.1 km/h, t 3h24min; Bad Bentheim - Oldenburg, ??? km by train; Total in Netherlands: 7 days (6 cycling), 428 km by bike; Total in Europe: 37 days (30 cycling), 2474 km by bike; plus 993 km transportation; Total 14949 km by bike; GERMANY: 311 day, June 12, Werden - German border - Bad Bentheim, 68 km (17 km after the border), AVS 20.1 km/h, t 3h24min; Bad Bentheim - Oldenburg, ??? km by train; 312 day, June 13, Oldenburg - Berlin, ??? by train; 313 day, June 14, stay in Berlin; 314 day, June 15, Berlin - Kustrin (Kostrzyn), 113 km by bike, AVS 18.3 km/h, t 6h12min; Total in Germany: 3 days (2 cycling), 130 km by bike, plus ??? transportation; Total: 15079 km by bike POLAND: 315 day, June 16, Kustrin - Szczecin, 104 km by train; 316 day, June 17, Szczecin - Kolobrzeg, 133 km by bus; Kolobrzeg - Koszalin 68 km by bike, AVS 22.5 km/h, t 3h01min; 317 day, June 18, Koszalin - Slupsk, 69 km by bike, AVS 19.3 km/h, t 3h34min; 318 day, June 19, Slupsk - Kartuzy - Gdansk, 126 km by bike, AVS 20.2 km/h, t 6h14min; 319 day, June 20, Gdansk - Stutthof - Elblag, 90 km by bike, AVS 20.3 km/h, t 6h14min; 320 day, June 21, Elblag - Fromborg - Braniewo, 47 km by bike, AVS 18 km/h, t 2h35min; 321 day, June 22, Braniewo - Gronowo (the border) - Diuny, 65 km (6 km until the border) by bike, AVS Total in Poland: 6 days (6 cycling), 406 km by bike, plus 237 km transportation; Total 15485 km by bike; RUSSIA: 321 day, June 22, Braniewo - Gronowo (the border), 6 km by bike; Gronowo (the border) - Kaliningrad, 54 km by car; Kaliningrad - Diuny, 60 km by bike; total 66 km by bike, AVS 16.7 km/h, t 4h03min; 322 day, June 23, Diuny - the border - Nida - Klaipeda - Karkle, 111 km (40 km until the border), by bike, AVS 18.3 km/h, t 6h03min; Total in Russia: 1 day (1 cycling), 100 km by bike, 54 km transportation; Total: 15585 km by bike LITHUANIA: 322 day, June 23, Diuny - the border - Nida - Klaipeda - Karkle, 111 km (71 km after the border), by bike, AVS 18.3 km/h, t 6h03min; 323 day, June 24, Karkle - Palanga - Plateliai - Plokstine, 100 km by bike, AVS 16.9 km/h, t 5h53min; 324 day, June 25, Plokstine - Kurtuvenai, 96 km by bike, AVS 17.2 km/h, t 5h35min; 325 day, June 26, Kurtuvenai - Siauliai - Berciunai, 117 km by bike, AVS 19.1 km/h, t 6h09min; 326 day, June 27, Berciunai - Kulionys, 127 km by bike, AVS 19.7 km/h, t 6h30min; 327 day, June 28, Kulionys - park of Europe 73 km by bike, AVS 20.4 km/h, t 3h37min; 328 day, June 29, park of Europe - Vilnius, 24 km by bike, AVS 15 km/h, t 1h36min; 329 - 332, June 30 - July 3, stay in Vilnius 333 day, July 4, Vilnius - Medininkai - the border - river Isloch (Racov),169 km (55 km until the border), AVS 17.6 km/h, t 9h36min; Total in Lithuania: 11 days (7 cycling), 663 km by bike Total: 16248 km by bike BELARUS: 333 day, July 4, Vilnius - Medininkai - the border - river Isloch (Racov), 169 km (114 km after the border), AVS 17.6 km/h, t 9h36min; 334 day, July 5, river Isloch (Racov) - Minsk, 59 km by bike, AVS 18.2 km/h, t 3h15min; very hot; 335 day, July 6, Minsk - Budagreskaja, 81 km by bike, AVS 17.5 km/h, t 4h38min; 336 day, July 7, Budagreskaja - Mikoshevichi, 135 km by bike, AVS 19.1 km/h, t 7h04min; 337 day, 8 July, Mikoshevichi - Stolin, 76 km by bike, AVS 16.5 km/h, t 4h36min; transportation by boat across Pripet river; 338 day, 9 July, Stolin - the border - Remicici 71 km(17 km until the border)by bike, AVS 19.8 km/h, t 3h33min; Total in Belarus: 5 days (5 cycling), 482 km by bike; Total: 16730 km by bike UKRAINE: 338 day, 9 July, Stolin - the border - Remicici 71 km(54 km after the border)by bike, AVS 19.8 km/h, t 3h35min; 339 day, 10 July, Remicici - Sarny, 17 km by bike, AVS 20.; Sarny - Lvov, 305 km by train; 340 day, 11 July, Lvov - Chernovtsy, 355 km by train 341 day, 12 July, Chernovtsy - the border (Siret), 43 km by bike, AVS 16.12 km, t 2h40min; Total in Ukraine: 4 days (1 cycling), 97 km by bike, 660 km by train; Total: 16827 km by bike TIRGU MURES, ROMANIA July 16, 1999 Received from Goda, Romania. UNDER THE SUN We did visit the orphanige, 500 children in a three store building. Edvardas asked me to interview Monica McDaid, Director Executive and volunteer, who came here nine years ago and took the initiative of helping the poor children. She told when she came first, the place was filthy and stinking, one could not tell the boy from the girl, as all of them had night gowns, the only clothing for all life ocassions. During the nine years they improved life conditions making them more "livable", brought more volunteers to look after the handicapped and those who never come out to look at the sun, raised funds to build a new good house for 12 girls to give a better life and education, promoted adoption and suceeded in finding parent families for four of them. "And children started to smile", Monica said, because now they have hope they are needed and will be helped. When we came they immediately surrounded us - looking, talking, touching. One girl was so desperate for love and attention that she threw her arms around the neck embracing, hugging and twisting each personally. Take a closer look at what is happening under this part of the sun, please visit these children <http://www.rca.usv.ro>, you can also write an email to Monica (fonv@warpnet.ro) or even more - a postcard to the children, I am sure they will be happy to get your attention! Meanwhile Carlotta was in hospital in Cernovtsy. Heavy intoxication, probably local water or PEPSI. Valery helped her and Pier, who has been looking after her, to get on the train and join the group in Tirgu Mures. To get to Tirgu Mures was a hell, at least for me - now I cycle slow and lazy. Even the hilly Carpats would have been bearable, if not the distance and permanent drizzle. I have to confess - I took a lift two times that day and made my life easier. Anci joined me, and we dozed off in the dry and warm truck. However the next morning was a challenge to all of us. Rain had not stopped since yesterday evening, and we could not get out of the warm Romanian house untill midday with 180 to be made! Anci said - "If somebody makes the distance, I will take my hat off". The only one was ... Waldemar, who thought that Oliver was in front and has been trying to catch him the whole day, and only in Tirgu Mures he understood he was the only one! Others cycled 60 km to Bistrica and took a train from there. Anci, Edvardas and me arrived by train too only ten hours later! The same morning later when I woke up the pastor of the Adventist church in Tirgu Mures commented on that with a smile: "Joy must be paid with hardships", and I remembered Africa. I rubbed my eyes and thought he was right hundred times. I had nothing to say. Goda SIBIU, ROMANIA July 18, 1999 Received from Goda, Romania. LIVING HISTORY The road forked, and the church bells started ringing. We turned uphill towards the call coming from the village, which, if I had to describe it better, better I would paint a portrait of a woman - old, shabby and miserable, but if one had a closer look one could without any doubt see the charms and elegance of that old lady. I stopped to take a picture of the houses running upwards and some young people carelessly coming down - gypsies, breastfed by this dying woman. Together with the rest of the group I pushed my bike though the door of the church. An old man came up asking, if I spoke German. "Sorry, I do not", I replied. Dissatisfied and a little frustrated, he said good bye and went his way. When I came out of the church, I saw him talking to Waldemar, the only one who spoke German. The man told this story: "Long long time ago may be in 15 or 16 century, in the time of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire, lots of Germans settled down in this area, as the Southern Romania was part of this huge empire. And so did my parents, who came here before Russians defeated Austrians in 1918. I am German, though I was born in Romania, and I did not see Germany until the day when Hitler addressed all the Germans, those abroad too, asking to join the army and help Germany to win the WWII. I did, and they sent me to fight against "Russians" in Lithuania. The war was coming to an end and the Germans lost, therefore the Russians, when they came to illiberate Berlin, took me as a prisoner releasing me six years later. I went back home - Romania"... The bells stopped and I looked up at the church tower - it used to have a clock, now only a rusty iron disk. The church was not so old anyway, some 130 years... but the bells were still there. Goda PS. At the moment all are snoring. One at night. We have to get up at seven and, having changed only four trains this time, we should be able to find ourselves in some town on the Romanian-Bulgarian border. Then in the morning we have to take a ferry and, having entered Bulgaria, again by train we will go directly to Sofia, our "friends adventists", as Sigitas has put it. We will meet Walter and Manuel, who have been to Bukarest to get Bulgarian visas. I hope they made that. However Oli will be back in a month. Sorry, I can not be more exact, it is getting too late and Pier is terrible when he snors. Goda YUGOSLAVIA July, 1999 Received from Walter, in YUGOSLAVIA. A spanish version of this report is available here. FOREWORD In Romania, the need of a visa has separated us, Manuel and me, from the rest of the group. Hiroshima awaits, and the group willnot take any but the pre-established route through Bucharest, so we are going on alone. The Bulgarian visa is too expensive for us. With the US$ 68 asked for three days in Bulgaria, how many weeks could we eat ? What can we do now to catch up with the group in Greece ? The only alternative is to cross Yugoslavia and Macedonia. Yugoslavia, the Serbian people's country, at war. The route opens in front of us, everything leads us there, the visas, good wishes, adventure… A 15-hour train trip drops us in Timisoara, Romania, 50 miles from the Yugoslavian border. What awaits us? What precautions should we take? We are entering a country that only a month before was devastated by the bombs of war, chaotic violence perturbing the country and its people. Preparing for the worst, we buy food for three days. We don't know which bridges or roads have been destroyed, nor if the army would cause us any trouble, or how contact with people would be. It is impossible to plan a route and we have the addresses only of embassies in Belgrade. All this while we are pedaling toward the border. Where are we going, buddy ? "To Yugoslavia, the country that no longer exists". 17.07.99 ENTERING YUGOSLAVIA (The sun sets in sunflowers and cornfields, hay recently cut for the cattle. The sun at the horizon, a sharp moon cutting itself above the landscape) The grim-faced border guards permit us to pass; they ask questions with hostility and ironically invites us to go to Kosovo. The first city in this country is Vrsac. We are astonished by the music and gypsies in the streets, people drinking outdoors and calling out from every side offering us PIVO! PIVO! (beer! beer!). Somebody grabs our attention and we share a table. He talks about past trips and the NATO bombing of this border city at the other extreme from Kosovo. We are surprised by the friendliness around here and even more by the extraordinary liveliness of this Saturday night. Is this the country we expected to find depressed by war ? By night we leave towards Belgrade and 10 miles before arriving we set up our tents behind a warehouse. 18.07.99 PANCHEVO AND BELGRADE Sunday starts well. A security guard buys us some coffee and we leave towards this country's capital. Six miles before [Belgrade], we reach Panchevo and meet Alexandra Volaroff and her nephew riding on bikes . She speaks English well, gives us a city tour by bike and treats us to beer (a local pivo, since 1722). A Serbian struggling between pride and frustration, like many others we've heard before, she dreams of emigrating, hoping to reach a goal unattainable in her own land. The nephew gives me his Yugoslavian (Serbian?) Army badge, and I one with the blue flag and stars of the European Community. We arrive at Belgrade, crossing the Danube on a huge bridge that gives us a spectacular view of the city. Tired and dirty, we spend a few hours wandering downtown in the middle of street noises and the bustle of people walking on a Sunday. We still don't see any physical trace of the war which, up to now, are only words get tense with memories of the bombings: sirens every night, explosions and fireworks; the trembling of houses and buildings; people waiting for death or tomorrow. Instead, daily music concerts on the streets, stories making fun of the tension, the high spirit ready for the future. We are happy to be here, impressed by this expression of courage in adversity. We smile with them, full of admiration. We find a place to sleep in the gardens of Saint Sava Church above Belgrade. 19.07.99 BELGRADE A day of embassies and journalists and of search for information to plan our route across the country. Everybody we talk to (Serbians or not) speaks of a dangerous and difficult situation in Kosovo: murders of "ethnic cleansing" now against Serbians; houses and churches burning; banditry; and continuing destruction. We… thinking. The international highway to Macedonia has been damaged by the bombs and passes within 50 miles of Kosovo, but it seems to be the only way across this country with any security and speed. Information here is limited by the censorship of a government that everybody censures. A reliable source for us is two National Geographic journalists, the only ones encouraging us to try Kosovo. They were there a week before and tell us that if we don't get off the main road we won't have any trouble. Now we know where we sleep. The cathedral, whose shadow protects us, is the place where Turks, invading this land some 500 years ago, tried to destroy the faith of the people by burning the bones of an Orthodox patron saint at the top of this hill. Saint Saba rises here, the biggest church of the Balkans, and in its gardens we put our tents and dream at night. 20.07.99 LAST DAY IN BELGRADE Today we check out the disasters made by bombings in this city. There are so many, it takes us almost all day to go from one place to another. The destruction is shown through enormous devastated buildings, gaps, landslides and twisted iron that buried people inside. The extent of the energy unleashed to destroy is amazing; so is the life all around that continues with its calm daily routine. One of my tires blows out four times today and Manuel is already fed up… but he waits. Why doesn't this kind of thing happen to him? I'm so unlucky! By nighttime, we have managed to get only a few miles away from Belgrade and we camp on a hill with a panoramic view of the city. She refuses to let us go so we'll take her with us. 21.07.99 JAGODINA Today we have pedaled over 80 miles under the burning sun of this summer day, we are so exhausted that we fall down at the entrance of this city waiting to recover. I am so tired that I don't want to eat, but I have to make an effort. We eat and drink a little, looking at the beautiful women of this city. People surround us wondering, what are these guys doing here with their bikes full of luggage, obviously foreigners. They are surprised that we go across their country by bike and even more (sometimes they even laugh their heads off) that we plan to arrive to Hiroshima. The feeling of being able to move this people as they realize that we are part of a team riding all around the world on behalf of global peace is impossible to describe. We know we were right to come here, this is our place and it is obvious to us that we must enter Kosovo in spite of so many warnings. 22.07.99 NIS Another exhausting day, we continue checking on the bombarded road and the destroyed bridges before we arrive to this city also punished by the NATO bombs. Here a market received a bomb at 11:00 am, women, old men and children paying the bloody cost. A Serbian doctor, a volunteer in the Croatian war, picks us up on the street. He eases our abandonment, he feeds us. We wash our clothes, we can finally take a bath when it was becoming difficult to put up with our dirtiness. Incredibly, he fully shares his apartment with us and we spend the night there. He also advises us not to go to Pristina, the capital of Kosovo. Even though Manuel and I don't talk about that anymore, we have already made up our minds. Kosovo, now under the control of the NATO and UN army, is the place where the roots of the Serbian people are. Their history starts right there, now it's the epicenter of grief and war. How, being so close, could we ignore the opportunity to complete a route? Without their intending it, people's affection has committed us to go, and the risk we take is nothing compared to what a war means. 23.07.99 18 MILES BEFORE MERDERE, Serbia-Kosovo Border We leave the international highway to enter the mountains; the rain and the night stop us near a destroyed bridge and some young people take us to this abandoned train station, our shelter. In red, we make a graffiti for peace on our home for tonight. When we wake up in the morning, we find we have slept on dry excrement (part and parcel of the job). 24.07.99 PRISTINA HEADING TO SKOPJE Today is the day. In the last Serbian (or Yugoslavian) checkpoint before the border, we are stopped and passports are requested. A soldier shows us a Belgrade newspaper where an article about us has been published. He asks questions: Why are we going to Kosovo? What are we looking for? Why don't we choose the route of the highway, bypassing Pristina? Our obvious answers, as Peace Riders, pull out of him a last request: "Do not go, sincerely, do not go, very dangerous, four deaths yesterday, go back to the highway." At this point the lump in our throats only gets bigger. The major danger we foresee are the bandits, so we hide our money and may God be willing. In Merdere, the new border, a funeral, people dressed in black and some empty cartridges of automatic weapons on the road is the farewell from Serbia. (Where are we going, buddy?) Serbian armored cars and fully armed soldiers say good-bye and, pointing ahead, they tell us again the story : only NATO and bandits. Some 600 feet ahead, after a bridge, we see at last the first NATO-UN checkpoint guarding this border, with British armored cars and soft courtesy. Here the route is not cratered or smashed and only two bridges are gaping open; there are armored cars and soldiers from every flag. The wind at our backs help us ride down the slope of the valley. Here Serbia's executioners are saviors and NATO is the friend. Albanian flags stream out over this place where it all started for the Serbians. People smile at us. More funerals and widows in the streets. Why are so many houses burned? Who are the dead ones now ? Are atrocities the only things that change faction ? For us the road is a race across destruction, all sides looming with ruins of homes and buildings with fire darkened walls, and this landscape goes on for miles while many people smile at us. Tanks on the road deaden our cries even to our own ears. All trace of Yugoslavia vanishes from the memory of posters, from the registration numbers, and from the alphabets. Pristina, the city, claims her dead on poles and trees, blaming Serbia. Armed patrols from all armies, ready for combat, walk down the streets flaunting their power. The city's administrative center is the monument itself of destruction. All the international aid organizations of this planet seem to be present in the life of this city full of foreigners. Food is very cheap, for German marks. We are still "crotos" here, people smile when they see us eating. We film all we can and as it's getting late we get out of the city towards Macedonia in a road full of heavy fast traffic that exposes to the asphalt the fragility of our bikes. Just in the middle of Kosovo, Manuel blows out his first tire since he rejoined the Peace Ride. The Polish army controls a line of trucks and cars of almost 3 miles extending toward the border of Macedonia. There won't be any Serbian stamp on our passports certifying we are getting out of Yugoslavia. Words in Polish say good-bye to us from a country that no longer exists. EPILOGUE In the big business of war, we have witnessed how Capital destroys in order to reconstruct. Who sells the fabulous machinery of war and death? And the bombs? Who owns the companies that will build new bridges and roads? We know that our deaths come from everywhere and we also know where they will end up. We arrive to Skopje at night only to buy a train ticket to cross Macedonia next morning. On July 25, we enter Greece by Tesalonica, then on July 27 we rejoin the rest of the group in Delphi. Two weeks traveling by ourselves made us miss the routine of our life in common, the energy of this caravan traveling on the road, our brothers with all their flaws, and maybe even the stress of the rushed mornings. We have completed the circle extending the route for peace and grown with it. We are still part of the dream, inviting others to dream. For all of us here, the adventure goes on. Walter TESSALONIKI, GREECE July 24, 1999 Received from Vidimantas, Lithuania. Slavek Platek reports from Greece: ,,Now we are in Greece in Katharine about 70 km to south from Thessaloniki. About 400 km left to Athens we plan go just by bike to Athens. Vidimantas. NAZARETH, ISRAEL August 6, 1999 Received from Sigitas, Israel. Yesterday we arrived to Israel. There is the route of our first day : 365 day, 5 August, Haifa - Nazareth, 43 km by bike, AVS 14.7 km/h, t 2h56min; Sigitas JENIN, PALESTINA August 7, 1999 Received from Ancica, Palestina. We have arrived to Haifa on Thursday morning and left the same day to Nazareth. Yesterday we've come from Nazareth to Jenin in Palestina, where we've been invited to participate at the Cultural Festival. Today we are leaving towards Jerusalem where we will stay untill Monday. At the moment in Israel we are 10 cyclists: 3 Lithuanians, 2 Polish, 2 Italian, 1 Mexican, 1 Peruvian and 1 Croatian. 3 ladies and 7 men. The eleventh cyclist from Germany took a break and will join us again in Iran. Poseidon Lines have donated 50% of ticket price from Athens to Haifa. Ancica. ROUTE - MIDDLE EAST June 4 - July 12, 1999 Received from Sigitas. ISRAEL-PALESTINA 365 day, 5 August, Haifa - Nazareth, 43 km by bike, AVS 14.7 km/h, t 2h56min; 366 day, 6 August, Nazareth - Jenin, 35 km by bike, AVS 14.6 km/h, t 2h25min; 367 day, 7 August, Jenin - 25 km south from Nablus, 77 km by bike, AVS 14.5 km/h, t 5h18min; mountains, very hot; 368 day, 8 August, 25 km south from Nablus - Jerusalem, 41 km by bike, AVS 14.1 km/h, t 2h54min; new highway through mountains, intensive trafic; 369 day, 9 August, stay in Jerusalem; excursion to Masada; 370 day, 10 August, Jerusalem - Bethlehem - Jerusalem - Dead Sea (398 m below sea level), 55 km by bike, AVS 18.1 km/h, t 3h02min; from Jerusalem all the time down until the Dead Sea; 371 day, 11 August, Dead Sea - Allenby Bridge (the border) - highway No30, 42 km (21 km until the border) by bike, AVS 13.5 km by bike, t 3h04min; very hot, a few hours waiting on the border while it will be open; Total in Israel and Palestina: 272 km by bike, 7 days (6 cycling); Total 18244 km by bike; JORDAN: 371 day, 11 August, Dead Sea - Allenby Bridge (the border) - highway No30, 42 km (21 km after the border) by bike, AVS 13.5 km by bike, t 3h04min; very hot, a few hours waiting on the border while it will be open. TURKEY: 384 day, 25 Aug, Nubul - A'zaz (the border) - Kilis, 49 km (9 km after the border) by bike, AVS 16.2 km/h, t 3h02min; Kilis - Adiyaman, 244 km by minibus; 385 day, 26 Aug, Adiyaman - Kahta, 39 km by bike, AVS 15.1 km/h, t 2h35min; 386 day, 27 Aug, the rest day; excursion to Nemrut Dagi; 387 day, 28 Aug, Kahta - Sincik, 42 km by bike, AVS 10.2 km/h, t 4h07min; mountains road; from Roman bridge very steep ascents; 388 day, 29 Aug, Sincik - Sogut, 65 km by bike, AVS 9.5 km/h, t 6h50min; graved road through beautiful mountains; steep ascents pushing bicycles up; the last 15 km very steep descent; 389 day, 30 Aug, Sogut - Malatya, 21 km by bike, AVS 18.8 km/h, t 1h07min; 390 day, 31 Aug, Malatya - Tatvan, 435 km by minibus; visit to the Governor of Malatya; 391 day, 1 Sep, excursion to volcano Nemrut, 22 km by bike; 392 day, 2 Sep, Tatvan - military camp, 49 km by bike, AVS 16.2 km/h, t 3h01min; very beautiful road; 393 day, 3 Sep, military camp - Edremit, 80 km by bike, AVS 17.8 km/h, t 4h30min; 394 day, 4 Sep, Edremit - Van, 24 km by bike, AVS 16.3 km/h, t 1h28min; visit to the municipality of Van; Van - Dogubayazit (Murat camping), 193 km by bus; 395 day, 5 Sep, Dogubayazit (Murat camping) - Gurbulak (the border) - Bazargan, 49 km (42 km till the border) by bike, AVS 15.2 km/h, t 3h14min; strong front wind; Total in Turkey: 11 days (8 cycling); 393 km by bike plus 872 km by transportation; Total: 19200 km by bike; IRAN: • 395 day, 5 Sep, Dogubayazit (Murat camping) - Gurbulak (the border) - Bazargan, 49 km (7 km after the border) by bike, AVS 15.2 km/h, t 3h14min; strong front wind; •396 day, 6 Sep, Bazargan - Maku, 21 km by bike, AVS 21.8 km/h, t 57min; Maku - Tabriz, 235 km by car; •397 day, 7 Sep, Tabriz - Bostan-Abad, 68 km by bike, AVS 20 km/h, t 3h24min ; from Tabriz up until the pass (2400 m) moderate ascent; •398 day, 8 Sep, Boston-Abad - Mianeh, 104 km by bike, AVS 24.4 km/h, t 4h20min; all the time down; •399 day, 9 Sep, Mianeh - Sybeh, (the middle between Mianeh and Firuz-Abad) 55 km by bike, AVS 13 km/h, t 4h14min; beautiful road along the river, after 15 km mountains with steep ascents; 35 km asphalt, then graved road ; •400 day, 10 Sep, Sybeh - Khalkhal, 68 km by bike, AVS 16.1 km/h, t 4h13min; good easy road; •401 day, 11 Sep, Khalkhal - Khalehsara, 76 km by bike, AVS 18.2 km/h, t 4h11min; 18 km up, beautiful views, 45 km down till the Caspian Sea; completely different climate at the Caspian side of mountains, rain; •402 day, 12 Sep, Khalesara - Bondar-e-Anzali, 62 km by bike, AVS 23.2 km/h, t 2h40min; flat good road but very intensive traffic; •403 day, 13 Sep, the rest day at the coast of Caspian Sea; •404 day,14 Sept, Bondar-e-Anzali - Lahijan, 69 km by bike, AVS 20.3 km/h, t 3h24min; very intensive traffic; •405 day, 15 Sep, Lahijan - Katalem (5 km south-east from Ramsar), 79 km by bike, AVS 20.2 km/h, t 3h55min; very intensive traffic; •406 day, 16 Sep, Katalem - Chalus - 10 km of the road from Chalus to Teheran, 85 km by bike, AVS 22.5 km/h, t 3h47min; backside wind, AVS 25 km/h until Chalus; intensive traffic; •407 day, 17 Sep, 10 km - 57 km of the road from Chalus to Teheran, 47 km by bike, AVS 13.2 km/h, t 3h34min; •408 day, 18 Sep, 57 km of the road from Chalus to Teheran - Asara, 66 km by bike, AVS 13.6, t 5h13min; very beautiful cannon, 33 km up till the pass 3000 m, AVS 9 km/h, after the pass all the time down; •409 day, 19 Sep, Asara - Karaj - Teheran, ??? by bike, AVS ??? •410 - 412 days, 20 - 22 Sep, stay in Tehran obtaining visas; 22 Sep night we have left Tehran by train; •413 day, 23 Sep, Tehran - Kerman, 1064 km by train, t 15h; comfortable train with sleeping places, bikes in the separate wagon; •414 day, 24 Sep, Kerman - Bam, 210 km by bus; in the morning excursion by bikes around Kerman; in Bam visiting the Old Arg citadel; •415 day, 25 Sep, Bam - Zahedan, 331 km by truck; •416 day, 26 Sep, Zahedan - Kuh-i-Taftan (the border), 100 km by pickup; the same day left for Quetta. Total in Iran: 20 days (13 cycling), 929 km by bike, plus 1940 km transportation; Total: 20129 km by bike. AMMAN, JORDAN August 15, 1999 Received from Goda. We are in Jordan Amman. Today is a day of miracle - the whole team received Syria visas, and Iran visas have also been given for free, all with the help of the National UNESCO Commission in Jordan. On tuesday we will leave for Syria - going through arabian countries. My friends, if not the good will of the Commission and embassy staff, we would have lost Iran visas and would have had to alter the route - going by plane to Turkey! Now we can continue our mission, crossing the borders and breaking the stereotypes of the nations surrounding us! With love, Goda This is an article that we found today in the morning in Jordan Times. Cyclists on 'peace ride' to greet millennium in country where the new sun rises By Dana Charkasi AMMAN — A group of 10 cyclists representing seven different nationalities is cycling 44 different countries around the world to spread the message of a peaceful and safe life in the new millennium. “The aim of our trip is to encourage people to think what the next millennium will be like... most conflicts worldwide are between neighbouring countries. If you can shake hands with your neighbour, it is already an achievement,” said Lithuanian Goda Ciplyte, assistant to the international coordinator of the Great Millenium Peace Ride. “In Lithuania, people have a negative stereotype of Polish people. But I am cycling together with two Polish, and we are good friends. It is important to get to know the attitude of the others,” she said. “We noticed that people all over the world are good. We had few bad experiences so far. Of course you have bad people in every country, but in general, the people we meet are very kind and helpful,” she said. Three Lithuanians, two Italians, two Poles, a Croatian, a Mexican, and a Peruvian are participating in the tour. The peace tour, which is supported by the United Nations Educationanol Scientific, and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO), started on August 6, 1998, in the U.S. city of Seattle, and led the group along the West coast of the U.S. to Central and South America, then to Western Africa and Europe. The ten riders are currently touring the Middle East, where they have so far visited Israel, the Palestinian self-rule territories and currently are in Jordan. “We pay [all expenses] from our own pocket, we sleep in tents which we transport with us on our bicycles,” Ciplyte told the Jordan Times. “Sometimes I don't know myself, why I am doing this. I always thought of travelling around the world. Everybody has a different reason why he or she is on the trip.” From Turkey, the group planned to cross Iran, Pakistan, India and China from where they plan to cross over to Japan where they will finish their tour in Hiroshima — one of the first two cities against which the atomic bomb was used during the World War II — on January 1, 2000. They also chose Japan because it is “the country where the sun rises first, to welcome the new Millennium,” after one and a half years of time and 26,000 cycled kilometres. The team carries with them a 40-metre-long peace banner, symbolising the 40,000 kilometres of the equatorial circumference of the globe, in which they invite the people of goodwill and those who support peace ideas to write wishes or greetings for the next Millennium. “Muslim people are very hospitable. We are always overwhelmed by their hospitality,” Ciplyte said. Representing different cultures, traditions, beliefs and nations, the Peace Ride is an example of peaceful cross-cultural coexistence. “In the beginning, we all were more individual, less tolerant, not patient enough with each other. One has to accept people how they are. Everybody has different ideas. But during the past year cycling together, we feel we are like one body,” Ciplyte said. August 15, 1999 Goda. AMMAN, JORDAN August 16, 1999 Received from Goda. Yesterday we received Syria visas, and Iran visas for the Polish people from the old passports were transferred to the new ones, for in the old passport Waldemar and Slavo had Israel and Iran visas on the same page. We will be leaving for Syria tomorrow by bus or other transport. Goda. SYRIA September 1st, 1999 Received from Vidmantas Kucas. Peaceriders, 10 people ( Oliver is in Germany) are in Syria. TURKEY September 2, 1999 Received from Vidmantas Kucas. Peaceriders are in Turkey now (not a earthquake zone). Vidimants TATVAN, KURDISTAN September 2, 1999 Received from Vidmantas Kucas. We are in TATMAN. Road - military zone - empty, no incidents. Road open from 9 to 15. Vidimantas ANZALI, IRAN September 13, 1999 Received from Goda. Ancica is learning how to avoid sand in desert. IRAN NEEDS JEANNA D'ARK It was easy to choose the title for this story, it came up by itself - in seven days of patience to realize the true reason of disagreement with myself, but when I grasped it, I got back my sense of freedom and independence. If I could, I would like to be Jeanna d'ark, but it is only a dream I want to share with you. If I could, I would address all the women of Iran, who feel the same way I do, would they follow ? I would tell them - take off the scarf ! Let your hair blow in the wind of the Caspian sea ! Show your hips and rounded breasts ! Lift up your head ! And let yourself free ! What kind of Holly book is Koran, if it imprisons a human being - the woman ? Yet it should speak in her behalf or is it men who interpret Koran in the most favourable way for them ? I do not know where the answer is, but I am happy to be only a traveler passing by through the country I would never like to come back. Too hard to hear ? Maybe... but, my friend, I am as subjective as you are, maybe you would feel the same way like the girls I talked to yesterday. Students of a university, shy, yet very curious. They wondered about my religion. I said I was Catholic. They asked for more - Can you read us YOUR Holly book ? I chose the prayer "Our Holly Father" from the gospel by John. They were very happy, for they told it was almost the same like the one they have in the Koran. - But why do you wear the scarf? - It is holly, we believe that, and we can not be exposed, only at home we can take off the black gown. We try to follow the Koran 100 percent, do you follow the Bible? - Yes, I try to, but I make mistakes, and I can not follow the Bible 100 percent like you. My friend Anci added - But you should ! It is true. I should... - Well...But tell me how do you communicate with boys ? Where do you meet them - in this park, cinema or university? - No, we can not talk to them, it is forbidden by laws. If a boy wants to talk or marry me, it is our tradition that his parents come to our house and talk to my parents asking for a permission. - And they decide for you? - No, if I do not like the boy, I will not go out with him. - So what kind of freedom is this? - For us it is freedom, we believe that ! And you have to observe our traditions wearing the scarf. - I try to, but I feel like in prison. I always feel the pressure of the men, who openly stare at me, the police, who stopped me today saying that my trousers were too short for 10-15 cm, and the women, who swim in the Caspian Sea in the black clothes covering the body from the head to feet !? And why does the police make trouble, when an elderly couple comes wanting to talk to Sigitas and the woman has to stand back 5 meters behind the husband ? What kind of freedom is it, if the police interferes the conversation strictly forbidding us to exchange addresses ? The girls run away like frightened hens - sorry, sorry, sorry... What for, is that the freedom you believe in ? We packed our things and moved to another place - it is quiet here, and I feel in peace. I take off the scarf and my new shoes. They are too tight. I go to the tap and make my feet wet. I wash my face too. Sitting carelessly on the thick concrete fence I eat sweet grapes and watch Anci and Manuel, two happy children flying kites, and small birds blowing in the wind between the sea and heaven. (My women, you could be here with me, but is that what you really want?) Goda ROUTE PAKISTAN & INDIA 1 from september 27, 1999 Received from Sigitas. PAKISTAN 417 day, 27 Sep, Kuh-i-Taftan - Quetta - Loralai, 859 km by bus, t 18h; bad narrow single line road; 418 day, 28 Sep, Loralai - Wahar, 45 km by bike, AVS 17.8 km/h, t 2h32min; narrow road; asphalt sometimes destroyed; 419 day, 29 Sep, Wahar - Kingri, 90 km by bike, AVS 17.5 km/h, t 5h09min; the same narrow road; when meeting truck it is difficult to pass; 420 day, 30 Sep, Kingri - Rakhni (the Baluchistan - Punjab border), 59 km by bike, AVS 16.4 km/h, t 3h36min; 421 day, 1 Oct, Rakhni (the Baluchistan - Punjab border) - Dera Ghazi Khan, 98 km by bike, AVS 18.8 km/h, t 5h13min; the first 10 km ascent 8 km/h; later about 30 km down; beautiful canion; 422 day, 2 Oct, Dera Ghazi Khan - Multan, 96 km by bike, AVS 19.2 km/h, t 5h00min; hot, high humidity area; the road crossing Indus valley; 423 day, 3 Oct, rest day in Multan; 424 day, 4 Oct, Multan - Talamba, 86 km by bike, AVS 17.9 km/h, t 4h48min; 425 day, 5 Oct, Talamba - Sahiwal, 107 km by bike, AVS 17.5 km/h, t 6h11min; 426 day, 6 Oct, Sahiwal - Pattoki, 92 km by bike, AVS 18.6 km/h, t 4h57min; highway; 427 day, 7 Oct, Pattoki - Lahore, 102 km by bike, AVS 18.2 km/h, t 5h36min; visiting Changa Manga park; good road along the railway; 428 day, 8 Oct, rest day in Lahore; 429 day, 9 Oct, Lahore - Wagha (the border), 42 km by bike including city tour, AVS 17.8 km/h, t 2h22min; the border is closed every day at 15:30; we had to stay for the night; Total in Pakistan: 13 days (10 cycling), 817 km by bike, plus 859 km transportation; Total: 20946 km by bike; Total 817 km by bike, plus 859 km transportation; Total 20946 km by bike; INDIA 429 day, 10 Oct, Wagha (the border) - Amritsar, 33 km by bike, AVS 22.4 km/h, t 1h28min; good road, smooth asphalt, on Sunday almost without trafic; 430 day, 11 Oct, Amritsar - Chaheru (16 km south-east from Jalandhar) 97 km by bike, AVS 23.8 km/h (in day time 24.4 km/h), t 4h05min; Plan for the next days: 431 day, 12 Oct, Chaheru (16 km south-east from Jalandhar) - Ludhiana - Sangrur, 120 km by bike; 432 day, 13 Oct , Sangur - Jind, 120 km by bike; 433 day, 14 Oct, Jind - Delhi, 120 km by bike; Total 817 km by bike, plus 859 km transportation; Total 20946 km by bike. NEW DELHI, INDIA October 19, 1999 Received from Goda. I am trying to settle down to write about India, the country that rich and poor Europeans dream about, but I cannot... like I can not match the two images: the India created by scrupulous travellers - peaceful, spiritual and attractive - and the one I see today - overgrowing itself. India - 250 Lithuanias - is celebrating today, celebrating overpopulation crushing the country, pollution choaking its people, poorness giving hope to the homeless and hungry, education bridging the gap between the illiterate and computer freeks, peace and love with nuclear weapons... I look at M. Gandhi's face on a ten rupee bank-note, I join a long line of people waiting to pay tribute to him, I see red flowers, lots of red flowers on the black marble, I feel the heat of the eternal fire burning beside, and I wonder. I wonder why we bring flowers to the dead and not to the living, and what are these flowers for him that we bring in his memory ? Or is that all we can do today ? I ask myself, my friends and you. I seek for Peace, but there is conflict in me, I seek for the Truth, but I don't know where it is, I'm in search for God, but it has so many faces... so I wonder. I wonder in a temple touching the marble plagues of the God of Love and I find the engraved words speaking directly to me - "For those who are wondering in the world ... and are caught in the wheel of delusion... the only way to be saved is to take refuge in God with pure heart... God is one, one without a second... and all this visible universe is the manifestation of that one immanent supreme being". I leave the temple murmuring the enchanting tune and smell the fragrance of the white blossom I had picked from the tree on Gandhi's memorial. From the heart of India I am happy to sending his greetings to you - "My life is my message". Goda NEW DELHI, INDIA October 21, 1999 Received from Goda. TIGERS AND ELEPHANTS We have a new participant. Edvardas told me with a smile - "We were cycling in the street and suddenly everybody saw a beautiful woman and stopped". That was Berti, our new rider from Germany - young, fresh and a teasing thing for our hungry boys. First we met her in a small village in France just like thousands of others. I did not expect anything and was brief with her explaining what we are travelling for. I was more concerned about feeding myself rather then talking to her. Sure, I could not take it seriously, for here were so many people who got attracted and were willing to come, but never did. After a few minutes she came back asking for the identity card. "Here it is, I'll see you later", I said without thinking. Today she told me she and her friend were excited, and could not be quiet any more thinking they had to see and be with us again. Strong, ah ? Soon she and her friend finished the trip in Portugal and a month later Berti joinedus in Delhi. Today we are four girls and seven boys representing not only the "Eastern block" and "latinos", so to say "rusos i perros calientes", but another part of the world's culture - fragrance of white Europe - first class cows... We are about to leave Delhi. We succeeded in getting Myanmar visas, and may be tomorrow will receive a permission to travel through Manipur - savage part of India - wild animals and people, nobody knows what is waiting for us here apart from tigers and elephants in the jungle. Goda NEW DELHI, INDIA October 21, 1999 Received from Goda. TIGERS AND ELEPHANTS We have a new participant. Edvardas told me with a smile - "We were cycling in the street and suddenly everybody saw a beautiful woman and stopped". That was Berti, our new rider from Germany - young, fresh and a teasing thing for our hungry boys. First we met her in a small village in France just like thousands of others. I did not expect anything and was brief with her explaining what we are travelling for. I was more concerned about feeding myself rather then talking to her. Sure, I could not take it seriously, for here were so many people who got attracted and were willing to come, but never did. After a few minutes she came back asking for the identity card. "Here it is, I'll see you later", I said without thinking. Today she told me she and her friend were excited, and could not be quiet any more thinking they had to see and be with us again. Strong, ah ? Soon she and her friend finished the trip in Portugal and a month later Berti joinedus in Delhi. Today we are four girls and seven boys representing not only the "Eastern block" and "latinos", so to say "rusos i perros calientes", but another part of the world's culture - fragrance of white Europe - first class cows... We are about to leave Delhi. We succeeded in getting Myanmar visas, and may be tomorrow will receive a permission to travel through Manipur - savage part of India - wild animals and people, nobody knows what is waiting for us here apart from tigers and elephants in the jungle. Goda LET'S DREAM, IT'S TIME October 27, 1999 Received from India. WE LOST OUR FRIEND - WALTER RAMON On 25 October all of us, eleven Peace Riders, took a train from New Jalpaiguri to Guwahati. It was around eight o'clock in the morning. Only three of us could get into the first train, and eight riders were obliged to take the next one. Both trains were overcrowded, and therefore it was difficult to get in and get a seat. Eventually everybody found some place, and Walter sat on the floor next to the open wagon door. We were tired, as this was the third day we have been travelling in the crowded Indian trains without much sleep. Shortly afterwards everybody fell asleep. Suddenly, a voice woke us up and we understood that somebody had fallen out of the train. The train stopped. It took us a moment to realize that Walter was not with us. Manuel and Pier jumped out and ran back to look at what happened, while the train slowly moved backwards. After running three kilometers back Manuel found Walter's documents scattered around and a hundred meters further he found our friend surrounded by the villagers. From the first sight it was clear that his head was seriously injured. He was unconscious. After some minutes the train arrived and we placed Walter in the train, where we provided first aid. We arrived to the nearest village - New Coochbihar - by the same train. In the village hospital they gave oxygen and advised us to find transportation to bring him to a more serious hospital in Siliguri, 180 km, as soon as possible. Because of the bad and crowded roads it took us a lot of time - 4 hours - to reach North Bengal Medical College-Hospital, but it was too late, and we lost Walter before we reached the hospital He closed his eyes at the sunset. Beautiful sunset nearby the Himalayas. Five o'clock. He was not alone. India was the worst place for the accident like this. Everything is slow here even in a such emergent case. However, due to the heavy injury nobody can say that, if this happened in any other country, our friend could have been saved. Walter joined the Peace Ride in Lima, Peru, December 1998. First he wanted to go with us just through Peru, as he could not afford to go further, but later he got so involved and attracted by the idea of sharing peace of his heart with all the people that he decided to continue until Hiroshima. He explained to us not once that this trip for him was a gift of God. He also felt that this peace mission was what he really loved and wanted - the right place. Walter was truly devoted to the people - having patience and love for anybody who wanted attention, sharing joy or just simple talking to somebody in the street. He showed much care for the group - always watching for the last or the lost ones - and always thinking more about others than himself. He was the heart and the good spirit of the group - always smiling and enjoying the life even in the most difficult moments. Any time we used to split up for some time, for example going to Kosovo, we missed him a lot. Now it is difficult to imagine riding without him, but we think it is our duty to accomplish the peace mission that he loved so much. We are sure he would encourage us to go on as he always did. WE STILL CAN NOT BELIEVE IN WHAT HAS HAPPENED. WE STILL CAN NOT BELIEVE WE WILL NEVER SEE HIM AGAIN. WE CAN NOT BELIEVE WE WILL NEVER HEAR HIS VOICE SINGING A SONG. WE LOVE YOU, WALTER. Sigitas, Goda, Edvardas, Slawek, Manuel, Pier, Carlotta, Ancica, Waldek, Berti 27 October 1999 Siliguri, India If you want to send condolences and help the family financially, please contact the address below : Familia Ramon calle Enrique Palacios #335 Miraflores, Lima 18 Peru You can also contact the family by e-mail: janetramon@hotmail.com , bank account: # 108 - 000015530 - 3 INTERBANK, in the name of JANET RAMON, Walter's sister. Walter had published some notes on this site, mostly in spanish, relating his experience in the peaceride : See : - Argentina by Walter (spanish) ; - Accident in Mendoza (english) ; - Africa by Walter (spanish). - Rabat, Morocco by Walter (spanish). - Yugoslavia by Walter (spanish version). - Yugoslavia by Walter (english version). Click on the few pictures below to see them at full extent. ROUTE - MYANMAR November 1999 Received from Sigitas. 460 day, 10 Nov, Tengnoupal - Moreh (the Myanmar border) - Tamu, 44 km (4 km after the border) by bike; descent, then about 7 km ascent, and again descent till Moreh; 461 day, 11 Nov, Tamu - Kangyi, 114 km by bike, AVS 19.6 km/h, t 5h49min ; good plain road, asphalt; some parts under construction; 462 day, 12 Nov, Kangyi - Kalewa, 42 km by bike, AVS 13.9 km/h, t 3h01min; road under construction, some parts with clay and mud, in particular hard after rain; 463 day, 13 Nov, Kalewa - Monywa, ~250 km by boat, t 15h; we took a boat down the Chindwinn river because of very bad condition of road from Kalewa to Kaduma; 464 day, 14 Nov, Monywa - Sagaing, 134 km by bike (including 16 km excursion to Mohnyin Sambuddhe Pagoda), AVS 20.1 km/h, t 6h40min; two lane rough asphalt road; 465 day, 15 Nov, Sagaing - Mandalay, 23 km by bike, AVS 21.3 km/h, t 1h05min; 466 day, 16 Nov, rest day in Mandalay; excursion to Mingun by boat; 467 day, 17 Nov, Mandalay - Myittha - Myingyan, 159 km by bike, AVS 20.1 km/h, t 7h54min; the direct road to Myingyan in bad condition, therefore we took the road through Myittha; 468 day, 18 Nov, Myingyan - Kanzatkon - Bagan, 130 km by bike, AVS 20.3 km/h, t 6h24min; beautiful road approaching to Mt. Popa; slight ascents and descents; from Kanzatkon very picturesque road going down to Bagan; practically all the day without traffic; 468 day, 19 Nov, stay in Bagan, visiting pagodas; Bagan - Kyaukpadang, 48 km by night train, t 2h30min; 469 day, 20 Nov, excursion to Mt. Popa by car; 470 day, 21Nov, Kyaukpadang - Meiktila, 99 km by bike, AVS 19.6 km/h, t 5h04min; good road, small traffic; 471 day, 22 Nov, Meiktila - Kalaw, 119 km by bike, AVS 16.6 km/h, t 7h10min; 472 day, 23 Nov, Kalaw - Heho - Kaungdine (Inle Lake), 65 km by bike, AVS 17.4 km/h, t 3h44min; 473 day, 24 Nov, Kaungdine - Nyaungshwe, ~15 km by boat; excursion around the Inle Lake by boat; Nyaungshwe - Taunggyi, 30 km by car; 474 day, 25 Nov, stay in Taunggyi; waiting for flight to Kyaing Tong; 475 day, 26 Nov, Taungyi (Heho) - Kyaing Tong, ~300 km by plane, t 50min; 476 day, 27 Nov, Kyaing Tong - Pan Laung, 47 km by bike, AVS 10.3 km/h, t 4h34min; hard rough road, some parts paved by stones; about 20 km from Kyaing Tong slow ascent, then down along the river; 477 day, 28 Nov, Pan Laung - Mong Hpayak (36 km) - Suit Pan, 57 km by bike, AVS 10.1 km/h, t 5h39min; rough road along the river; 478 day, 29 Nov, Suit Pan - Tale (16 km, junction to Tachilek) - Nam Phyan, 56 km by bike, AVS 10.2 km/h, t 5h29min; a few km after junction the road becomes narrow; many rivers and streams without bridges; 479 day, 30 Nov, Nam Phyan - Wan Kying (the border with Laos), 18 km by bike, AVS 10 km/h, t 1h48min; Nam Phyan - Xieng Kok, 13 km by boat along Mekong river; Xieng Kok - Muong Sing, 70 km by car. Total in Myanmar 19 days (13 cycling), 1067 km by bike, plus ~613 km transportation; Total: 22629 km by bike; LAOS december 1999 Received from Sigitas. 479 day, 30 Nov, Nam Phyan - Wan Kying (the border with Laos), 18 km by bike, AVS 10 km/h, t 1h48min; Nam Phyan - Xieng Kok, 13 km by boat along Mekong river; Xieng Kok - Muong Sing, 70 km by car; 480-481 days, 1-2 Dec, Muong Sing - Luangnamtha - Luang Prabang, 360 km by car; t 4h+12 h; till Luangnamtha and later asphalt, though much deteriorated; after Udomaxi good new road; 482 day, 3 Dec, stay in Luang Prabang; 483 day, 4 Dec, Luang Prabang - 39 km, 39 km by bike, AVS 13.5 km/h, t 2h53min; very good road, asphalt, no traffic; the last 10 km slight ascent; first time serious rain after Kaspia Sea coast; 484 day, 5 Dec, 39 km - Phou Khoun, 93 km by bike, AVS 14.8 km/h, t 6h17min; the road through mountains up and down all the time; in the morning rain; 485 day, 6 Dec, Phou Khoun - Vientiane, 257 km by car, t 5h; half of day rain; 486-490 days, 7-11 Dec, stay in Vientiane, waiting for visas; 491 day, 12 Dec, Vientiane - Kunming (China), ~800 km by plane; Total in Laos 11 days (2 cycling), 132 km by bike, plus 687 km transportation (flight not included); Total: 22761 km by bike; Sigitas CHINA december 1999 Received from Sigitas. THE GREAT MILLENNIUM PEACE RIDE OVERCOMES THE GREAT CHINESE WALL Our aim is not only promote peace and understanding among the people of the world, but also break the walls. So far in 16 months we have suceeded in pedalling through 42 countries, and have discovered that different embasies of the same country have expressed a completely different approach towards our peace project. We can give many examples when the same applications have been rejected in one country, while elsewhere visas were issued the same day and even without a consular fee. We applied for Chinese visa still in Delhi, India. However we were not admitted into the embasy and the consul insisted that first we should obtain an official invitation from a sports or tourism organisation. To that end "China International Sports Travel", provided "a bill" - each peace rider should pay 105 USD per day for the stay in China. We addressed Polish diplomats in India and Lithuanian diplomats in China as well as the National UNESCO Commissions in Lithuania and China to assist us in this matter, however even the pressure on the Chinese Government gave no results. The situation seemed to be hopeless, as it would be a shame for a bicycle ride to take a flight going directly to our destination - Hiroshima. We had to change our route in Laos and came to Vientiane, last chance to overcome the Great Chinese Wall, and a miracle happened... The Chinese Consular Department in Vientiane issued visas with a big Chinese smile. This is a true testimony of our experience that all the matters first depend not on the instructions or regulations, but on GOOD WILL only! The Peace Ride is entering the last part of the route - arriving to KUNMING on 12 December, we will continue through China pedaling towards SHANGHAI. Christmas will be unusual - on the ferry to Japan! We will arrive to HIROSHIMA in time to meet the New and Peaceful Millennium. Sigitas CHINA december 1999 Received from Sigitas. THE GREAT MILLENNIUM PEACE RIDE OVERCOMES THE GREAT CHINESE WALL Our aim is not only promote peace and understanding among the people of the world, but also break the walls. So far in 16 months we have suceeded in pedalling through 42 countries, and have discovered that different embasies of the same country have expressed a completely different approach towards our peace project. We can give many examples when the same applications have been rejected in one country, while elsewhere visas were issued the same day and even without a consular fee. We applied for Chinese visa still in Delhi, India. However we were not admitted into the embasy and the consul insisted that first we should obtain an official invitation from a sports or tourism organisation. To that end "China International Sports Travel", provided "a bill" - each peace rider should pay 105 USD per day for the stay in China. We addressed Polish diplomats in India and Lithuanian diplomats in China as well as the National UNESCO Commissions in Lithuania and China to assist us in this matter, however even the pressure on the Chinese Government gave no results. The situation seemed to be hopeless, as it would be a shame for a bicycle ride to take a flight going directly to our destination - Hiroshima. We had to change our route in Laos and came to Vientiane, last chance to overcome the Great Chinese Wall, and a miracle happened... The Chinese Consular Department in Vientiane issued visas with a big Chinese smile. This is a true testimony of our experience that all the matters first depend not on the instructions or regulations, but on GOOD WILL only! The Peace Ride is entering the last part of the route - arriving to KUNMING on 12 December, we will continue through China pedaling towards SHANGHAI. Christmas will be unusual - on the ferry to Japan! We will arrive to HIROSHIMA in time to meet the New and Peaceful Millennium. Sigitas JAPAN December 27, 1999 Received from Japan. 505th day, 1999, 27 Dec , stay in Kobe; 506th day, 1999, 28 Dec, Kobe Okayama, 158 km by bike, AVS 16.5 km/h, t 9h 35min; Total: 23149 km by bike; WUHAN, CHINA December 16, 1999 Received from China. AFTER THE ACCIDENT After the accident in India and almost one month of isolation in military Myanmar we received many letters from friends all over the world expressing condolences and sadness over the unexpected loss of our friend. The many people, who Walter met or talked, were deeply moved, as Walter, being open to himself and others, loved to communicate. Even for a short while, he made an impression of a sensitive and deep personality, and a little girl he spoke for a moment in Vilnius sees him in the dream. In many places of the world service has been held in Walter's memory - India, Peru, Lithuania, Poland. A lot of friends in Senegal, USA and Greece, Britain and Argentina prayed for his family, while Lithuanian newspapers as well as Lithuanian and Polish TV made special reports in his memory. We wish to thank all those, who supported us in this difficult moment and encouraged us to continue cycling until Hiroshima. As his have family requested, we are carrying a part of his ashes to Hiroshima, while the remaining part as well as his belongings have been sent to his home in Lima, Peru. Vivid are the lines - "Now Walter is an angel, and you will always hear the whisper of his wings resounding in your back". In different moments of this trip we often think of his encouragement, and he is with us like he used to be - the one "who has touched many lives on his journey and in his peaceful sorrowful death. He will continue to touch and connect together hundreds and thousands of lives round the world. All in the name of peace!" Sigitas, Goda, Edvardas, Slawek, Manuel, Pier, Carlotta, Ancica, Waldek, Berti Wuhan, China 16 December 1999 a wish... December 8, 1999 Received from Laos. After more than one month of isolation I come to a cyber cafe early in the morning wishing to write to my mum. I open our web site and Walter looks out at me again... The warm and beautiful smile of a latino, who... who loved every minute of this life - sunny or cold... always had some words to say... and he is still talking... My friends, Chirstmas is on the way. It is warm and relaxing in Vientiane, Laos. People in the evenings come to water vegetables nourished by the rich coasts of the Mekong, while in Europe the shopping maddnes is growing, and I know how empty I feel at this time. Thinking of Walter I ask myself - do we have time ? Do we have time for us ? Do we? Do we have time to give a smile for each other ? Do we have time to say "I love you"? And I read in Buddhas teachings - "... we think that we have time!" So I do not need to think any more, I just know. I know - I have all the time in the world! I have time to travel around the world, I have time to send a message home, I have time to have a little dream ! This is my present to ALL of you on the way to the next millennium. With love, Goda